Air Conditioner

My Marine-Air units all had a thin built in filter on the condenser coils, in addition a larger conventional filter was on the return.
I cleaned the internal filter twice a season. Sorry to be so late to the thread,....
Bill
 
I went to the home center and got a big piece of green filter material and cut a filter to fit. I have enough material to make about five more.
 
The lounge seat is not air tight .. Notice all the dust along the sides ? Cant hurt to use a filter on the AC unit . Can hurt not to

Rob
 
But I would not use that thick green filter material on the coil fins. Use the thin black stuff you can get from a marine A/C shop.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Capt. Bill1

But I would not use that thick green filter material on the coil fins. Use the thin black stuff you can get from a marine A/C shop.




I agree but I'll comment that the thin black stuff cleans up easily with water and simple green. Just remove it to clean it, when you're done re-install it.
Bill
 
Rawidman,
Great you're replacing your AC, but are you going to figure out what the underlying problem is or just replace every 5 years?

You do get you have a problem and it is not the manufacturer?
Just saying LOL
 
quote:

Originally posted by walterv

Rawidman,
Great you're replacing your AC, but are you going to figure out what the underlying problem is or just replace every 5 years?

You do get you have a problem and it is not the manufacturer?
Just saying LOL






Yes I do have a problem. Buying from a company and installer who won't stand behind their products.

I mentioned that the installer removed the control box and mounted it separately. There is no continuity between the boat's ground wire that's connected to the control box and the heat exchanger tubing. Perhaps that was the reason for the early failure.

In any event, I am done with the manufacturer and the authorized installer/ service person.
 
Ok,
If that is what it was, cool, just don't want to see you do this a third time.

Walter
 
Grounds on boats is very very important.You must have always good ground connection and bonding connections.
 
quote:

Originally posted by boatcomfort

Grounds on boats is very very important.You must have always good ground connection and bonding connections.





I would have thought someone in the marine airconditioning business for over twenty years and representing a major manufacturer would have known that.
 
Rawidman. Sorry to hear that. I'm in New York is a bit far. And I'm on this business since 1987. But any boat mechanic or electrician should know that.
 
Air returns in a house and a small boat are different creatures. Both serve as a means of supplying air to recirculate thru the evaporator, but approached in different ways.
In a house, returns are placed in different rooms to assist in exchange of air. Merely pumping air into a closed room (think closed door) doesn't do much good. Air must be exchanged. Houseboats and some larger boats have rooms and doors, ducted air returns are necessary for proper exchange.
Sometimes as an alternative, doors will be cut shorter at the bottom to provide a return air path.
A airtight "return tube" although it won't hurt is seldom necessary. When using a sealed tube make sure nothing can obstruct it. An errant sheet of paper, a towel tossed accidentally over the grill, any minor obstruction close to a "sealed" return can be sucked and held into place very easily totally obstructing the return air. Just like a clogged filter would. Result in the summer is a frozen coil. Most marine A/C units are located under a seat or storage compartment They are dropped into place, plumbed, then a tube takes the air to a location to be blown into the cabin. The two must be separated a little to prevent the air supply and return from making a circle of air, rather than circulating around in the cabin.
Just make sure there is a filter (mine are attached to the coil) and my front A/C has a washable filter on the coil and in a rectangle vent hole in the bulkhead under the front berth.
An example that comes to mind is a "mom & pop" restaurant that smells like bacon in the morning. They may have an exhaust fan, but don't want to use it because it sucks the heat out of building. All has to be done is provide a make up air tube vented to the outside near the grill. Air comes in the tube goes to the fan and exits taking the odor with it. Makes a circle rather from the doors/ windows all over the building. You create a path of least resistance. I have even seen exhaust fans in a block building suck air down the chimney down the gas water heater exhaust pipe and blow out the pilot light..
That's my morning snowed in lesson for Sat. BoateEd looked empty this morning so I thought I'd impart something for all who cared to read.
 
Thanks. The AC manufacturer recommended not ducting the return directly to the coil but allowing the return air to flow over the unit to help cool it. It still gets return air only from the area under the lounge, there's no other way for air to get into this "box".

http://flagshipmarine.com/do's-don'ts.html

quote:


Return air ducting:

There is no need for return air ducting - these units are like vacuum cleaners, sucking air from whatever compartment they are in and blowing the cooled or heated air through the discharge duct-work system. If you use our pre-designed ducting system you will be assured of having the correct amount of air flow and air velocity to successfully de-stratify the air in a properly sized application without having excessive noise or uncomfortable drafts.

The blower motor and rotary compressors are air cooled and do get warm, therefore it's good form to have the return air travel over these components in route to the evaporator. There is no need to have the evaporator up against the return air grill, in fact it's better to have the opposite - make sure the evaporator has at least 2-3" of space from a bulkhead.



 
Yeah well unfortunately marine A/C are just like vacuums and boat builders often mount the unit in a space where it can and does pull return air from any where it can get it. And in many caes it's pulling little or no air from the room it's trying to cool and dehumidify. I've even seen them installed where they were not only not pulling air from the room they were trying to cool but actually pulling air from the exterior of the vessel or from bilge spaces.

So making blanket statements that they don't really need return air ducting of some kind is just not true in many, many cases when it comes to boats.
 
I'm very late to this thread - but I have a Flagship on my Portofino (at least 7-8 years old). Hope you have good service from yours. I have only had to replace a relay so far.

I love the resistance heat on our cold days/nights. It gets the cabin VERY toasty and it's great to have that really warm air coming out of the vents, as opposed to lukewarm I have experienced in some heat pumps when it's too cold (be it air temp w/ house, or water temp w/ boat).

They are very knowledgeable if you need to call in. I asked about a new updated control panel and the guy talked me out of it. They always seem to look out for me and never recommend replacing or upgrading things just to sell more.

Oh - and mine pulls air from a vent on the other side of the fridge, though it is certainly getting return air from the open gaps around the fridge.

Whatever the case - all is well with it and its performance in both summer and winter in Austin, TX.

Paul
 
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