Bottom Paint

Yes, climate change is Bush's fault and yes, it is his fault for the negative effects on your coating project.
But here's the inconvenient truth: Temps in the uppper 80's, your working time is reduced, temps in the low 50's your cure time is extended, temps drops below 45, you coating may never cure at all, even if it warms up over 50, leave the buckets in the back of your truck on a sunny day, let them get nice and warm then mix a 2-part system - you'll probably end up with a very expensive anchor, dew point within 5 degrees of ambient air, your coating may have amine blush, which will cause inter-coat adhesion failures. Single component over-the-counter marine coatings are pretty tolerant and easy to use, just like regular old house paint, but if you are considering a DIY project with 2 and/or 3 part component coating, just be aware of all the factors for a successful project.
 
Please excuse my ignorance on the bottom paint issue, but. How often and how many times can you paint over your initial coat? How often do you have to take it back down to the gel coat completely and start over?
 
I don't think it's ignornance, I think it's the lack of detail the manufacturers provide.
There is too much real-world experience on BE from members learning the hard way, both in brands and types of bottom paint which are "good-better-best" to installation issues. If the manufacturer is going to sell bottom coating systems to the public, through Les and his competitors, the comsumer shouldn't have to learn "best practices" through trial and error.
I wanted to share some "best-practices" from my experiences which may help someone have a succesful coating project
My perspective is based on 2-part epoxy systems. These type of coatings do have a re-coat window. For example, if the re-coat window is 8 - 16 hours, that means you must apply your subsequent coats in that window. If not, you can have bond failures. Most coatings are a little more forgiving, you do have a few hours more hours to work with. Higher temperatures decrease cure times!
Something I learned from Vic's post: his particular coating required immersion service (only out of the water for 24 hours) Most epoxy-based coatings and I would assume some anti-foulant top coats are sensitive to prolonged UV exposure.
Back to re-coat windows: If you are outside re-coat window (depending on the type of epoxy coating) you may have to mechanical abrade thhe existing coating, but not down to the gel-coat if the existing coating is well adhered.
The difference is within the re-coat window, the different layers are chemically bonding, outside the re-coat window, reduced or no chemical bonding takes place.
So one year down the road and you want to re-coat, if the existing coating is well adhered, you SHOULD be able to mechically abrade the existing coating, giving a rough surface for the new coating to bond to, without having to go down to the gel coat.
Can anyone chime in - feasible or do you have to go down to the gel coat?
 
I just got word today that the barrier coat seems to have held fine but not the first coat of ablative so they are telling me that I must have waited too long before starting the first coat of bottom paint. I say that I followed the instructions to the letter if anything I was only the minimum wait time not max before I applied that coat of paint. I had to wait to apply that coat so I started very early in the morning so I could put the next coat on I believe it was seven hours later if I recall correctly. I didn't wait longer then I had to or I would have had to work in the dark.
I was told as long as I provide proof of purchase they will make good on the paint. I will still have to scrape than sand and reapply myself but at least it will cut down on the cost.
I was told to put two coats of hard on this year and next year if it holds then paint over with ablative paint. I'm not thrilled with this but I will do what ever it takes to make it right. I was hoping not to have to redo this for at least a couple of years, now it looks like I will be painting three years in a row. This is what I was trying to avoid that why I spent the time and money in the first place. With a little luck I wont have to paint two years from now.
 
That sux. I had a feeling that's what happened. Just sux when you think you're gonna have an easy spring launch.

They are springing for all the paint you put on?
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest

That sux. I had a feeling that's what happened. Just sux when you think you're gonna have an easy spring launch.

They are springing for all the paint you put on?

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not sure of the details yet but they said they would make good. We will see what that means.
 
They will say fine, go buy Interlux, on your dime. What do you think Petit will say????
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest

They will say fine, go buy Interlux, on your dime. What do you think Petit will say????

Click to expand...
word for word what I was thinking. There are plenty of people out thee that use Petit without problems I was sure I must have done something wrong but waiting too long is not possible I was well within the time range for that coated.
 
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I hav ebeen reading this site every Saturday and Sunday to catch up on things, I have a Carver Mariner 36,
 
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Sorry for the shortened note on my last post, hit enter too soon. My question is what type of bottom paint to use. We bought the boat last year and boat on the St. Lawrence Riverin the 1000 Island area, fresh water boating. Again the boat is a 2005 Mariner 36.
 
That is tough to answer with out knowing that is on there now. If you planing on stripping to the gel coat and starting fresh then you can use anything. If you plan on light sanding and painting over what you have now, you need to look at a chart of compatible paints to cover. I for one would not make a recommendation there are a lot of variables and the potential of incompatibly.
 
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