This year I plan on using a power buffer and not orbital type like I ussually use. I have a 90 sea ray and can use a good buffing this year. My question is can I use my 18v Dewalt with one of those wool pad disks. Or I have a angle drill. Will these work or should I buy a power buffer?
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- Thread starter mjkkemper
- Start date
- Joined
- May 25, 2003
- RO Number
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Whats the rpm of your angle drill?...To do a good job without burning the gelcoat you should use a buffer with an rmp of no more than 2000rmp, but 1750rpm is ideal..
Well, i now give the HF one a thumbs up. actually, until the 23rd the $49 is only $29.
last week i had wheel take off on my and shoot into the water, and today i had one start on fire. the only other back up one i had isnt worth crap, so i ran over to HF and picked it up. seems just as good as the dewalt and makita i was using
last week i had wheel take off on my and shoot into the water, and today i had one start on fire. the only other back up one i had isnt worth crap, so i ran over to HF and picked it up. seems just as good as the dewalt and makita i was using
Mike, have you ever tried using the cyclo polisher? It is a high end machine cost wise, but it is a pound an a half lighter than either the DeWalt or the Makita and covers more area per swipe. I saw a demo last week at a car care show along with the new quick connect pads and it did a better job than the rotaries or the DA machines. With the new technologies on foam the wool pads and velcro backings will be history very soon. The cyclo machine has been around over 50 years but it looks as if it has found new life with the double sided foam pads.
Oh yeah, i seen and used those. but, its no comparison to a typical buffer for heavier oxidation.
"The heads are designed to mimic the motion of hand polishing, but much faster".... exactly, HAND polishing
as for the weight. swinging a wheel for as long as i have you dont even notice it anymore.
BTW, the HF is quiter then the other 2 referenced above, but that could be new vs old
"The heads are designed to mimic the motion of hand polishing, but much faster".... exactly, HAND polishing
as for the weight. swinging a wheel for as long as i have you dont even notice it anymore.
BTW, the HF is quiter then the other 2 referenced above, but that could be new vs old
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2002
- RO Number
- 9587
- Messages
- 1,036
Ok folks, I've been following this for a little while now along with other posts and I am going down to the boat tomorrow to polish my hull now that it's on the hard.
It's not too badly faded but really has no shine. I am going to HF and picking up two polishers. One for me and one for my friend who is helping me. I tried having someone local with more experience and time to do this for me with no luck.(I'm 2 hours from my boat)
At first, I was dreading this...but after reading your posts on proper procedures, applications, etc and taking notes I feel confident with this task. I will let you know how it turns out. Maybe I'll post some pictures too.
Thanks,
Jamie
It's not too badly faded but really has no shine. I am going to HF and picking up two polishers. One for me and one for my friend who is helping me. I tried having someone local with more experience and time to do this for me with no luck.(I'm 2 hours from my boat)
At first, I was dreading this...but after reading your posts on proper procedures, applications, etc and taking notes I feel confident with this task. I will let you know how it turns out. Maybe I'll post some pictures too.
Thanks,
Jamie
Mike/Les:
if this link is out of bounds please remove
http://properboatcare.com/poca74madema.html
curious if there is merit to this package/kit of buffer and various pads - the link in previous post is pretty basic machine and accessories - am guessing the Porter Cable machine better but may not be worth cost and the additional pads not needed
input appreciated
if this link is out of bounds please remove
http://properboatcare.com/poca74madema.html
curious if there is merit to this package/kit of buffer and various pads - the link in previous post is pretty basic machine and accessories - am guessing the Porter Cable machine better but may not be worth cost and the additional pads not needed
input appreciated
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2002
- RO Number
- 9587
- Messages
- 1,036
Well I went down and spent the day buffing my hull and it turned out very well. I bought two of the HD polishers which were on sale...the boat came out looking 100% better.
Unfortunetly, one of the buffers broke. My fault, had it up on a ladder and it fell, breaking off the handle and plastic backing plate assembly. Otherwise, she still runs...
Jamie
Unfortunetly, one of the buffers broke. My fault, had it up on a ladder and it fell, breaking off the handle and plastic backing plate assembly. Otherwise, she still runs...
Jamie
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2002
- RO Number
- 9587
- Messages
- 1,036
I used the wool buffing pad and I used Starbrite
hull polisher/cleaner in a red/white bottle. (Only 'cause it's what I had on hand...)
Seem to work good. Not waxed yet. I applied the cleaner to the buffing pad, not too much or it loads up the pad and makes it difficult to apply. While working the edge of the pad at a medium speed into the boat with the cleaner, working no more than 3'x3' at a time. Once it was applied, I use the buffer full flat against the hull to polish and remove any swirl marks. Then move on to the next area, with overlap. In some spots, I tried to apply the polish by hand then buff...that didn't work too well. I could look at the hull sorta sideways as you clean and you can see the difference as you move on...! You can practice with buffer speed for different areas, etc. Sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less pressure while polishing. Don't go high speed though...also, be careful around the boot stripe or other areas if painted, it'll get on the pad and marr what you have just polished. You can also blue painter's masking tape to help while polishing near different colors. And use a bonnet spur to fluff the pad from time to time.
My boat,32 ft., took about 4 1/2 hours time all the way around after washing.
Don't know if that's the way it's done but it worked for me. Good luck,
Jamie
hull polisher/cleaner in a red/white bottle. (Only 'cause it's what I had on hand...)
Seem to work good. Not waxed yet. I applied the cleaner to the buffing pad, not too much or it loads up the pad and makes it difficult to apply. While working the edge of the pad at a medium speed into the boat with the cleaner, working no more than 3'x3' at a time. Once it was applied, I use the buffer full flat against the hull to polish and remove any swirl marks. Then move on to the next area, with overlap. In some spots, I tried to apply the polish by hand then buff...that didn't work too well. I could look at the hull sorta sideways as you clean and you can see the difference as you move on...! You can practice with buffer speed for different areas, etc. Sometimes a little more, sometimes a little less pressure while polishing. Don't go high speed though...also, be careful around the boot stripe or other areas if painted, it'll get on the pad and marr what you have just polished. You can also blue painter's masking tape to help while polishing near different colors. And use a bonnet spur to fluff the pad from time to time.
My boat,32 ft., took about 4 1/2 hours time all the way around after washing.
Don't know if that's the way it's done but it worked for me. Good luck,
Jamie