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Something interesting I got from AwlGrip in an e-mail about primimg the gel b4 painting..
"You should prime but not absolutely mandatory."
"You should prime but not absolutely mandatory."
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Painting gelcoat
- Thread starter bob richards
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 1702
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- 1,621
You cannot sandout and polish Awlgrip like you can gelsoat. Once it's applied, its done. you live with the results unless you get it sanded and resprayed...
I painted Awlgrip and Imron through the 80's and 90's. Unless the gelcoat was in exceptional condition, I almost always primed with 545 epoxy primer. Gelcoat often has pinholes and more holes open up when sanded. Prior to sanding (the gelcoat and the 545 primer), I always dust coated with a spray can of black lacquer primer. The black lacquer primer will show up the pinholes when you sand it off. Right before priming, scrub with a scotchbrite and Comet to finish removing any contaminants (especially Silicone). Surface is contaminent free when rinse water flows like a sheet without any breaks.
Awlgrip vs. Imron. Both are excellent. Awlgrip is an a linear polyurethane. It is not meant to be buffed and is harder and more abrasion resistant than Imron. Imron is an acrylic urethane and more repair friendly than Awlgrip. Imron can be waxed. You should never wax Awlgrip. My personal choice for my own boat has always been Awlgrip. Due to my schedule, it does not get the best of care. I paint the top and cockpit every 5 years (S. Florida sun & salt) but the hull still shines with the Awlgrip I applied in 1991.
Topcoat application of Awlgrip is more critical than Imron. You can buff mistakes out easier with Imron. In Awlgrip, where you buff mistakes, it will show up duller in a few months.
Awlgrip vs. Imron. Both are excellent. Awlgrip is an a linear polyurethane. It is not meant to be buffed and is harder and more abrasion resistant than Imron. Imron is an acrylic urethane and more repair friendly than Awlgrip. Imron can be waxed. You should never wax Awlgrip. My personal choice for my own boat has always been Awlgrip. Due to my schedule, it does not get the best of care. I paint the top and cockpit every 5 years (S. Florida sun & salt) but the hull still shines with the Awlgrip I applied in 1991.
Topcoat application of Awlgrip is more critical than Imron. You can buff mistakes out easier with Imron. In Awlgrip, where you buff mistakes, it will show up duller in a few months.
quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht
...If the paintjob doesn't look better than when you buff the original gelcoat back whats the point?
Awlgrip doesn't need to be buffed and polished like gelcoat which means less maintenance
370 Motoryacht
Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2010
- RO Number
- 31959
- Messages
- 521
I understand but if the rest of the post eludes to having the entire job done professionally. Around here to do a 330 Sundancer you would expect to pay about 30K for the hull and topsides.
Thats probably about 40 detail jobs...
Thats probably about 40 detail jobs...
quote:
Originally posted by deerows
quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht
...If the paintjob doesn't look better than when you buff the original gelcoat back whats the point?
Awlgrip doesn't need to be buffed and polished like gelcoat which means less maintenance
If I do it myself over the course of a year it will look as good as the detail job for 5 years at the cost of 2 or 3 detail jobs.
I had a company quote $3K to "completely restore" the gelcoat with a special process. And they would not guarantee it would last. The implication was that they would need to do it annually with maintenance treatments in between. I passed on that offer.
Bob, we're practically neighbors, if you do this, I'd like to see your boat during the process. Send me an email at deerows at comcast dot net Also I have talked with several guys in the area that will work with you for much less than hiring someone to do the complete job. Essentially, they will teach you how to roll AwlGrip. Now that I've said that I'm not sure if I could find the business cards of these people. I'll look for the business cards.
I had a company quote $3K to "completely restore" the gelcoat with a special process. And they would not guarantee it would last. The implication was that they would need to do it annually with maintenance treatments in between. I passed on that offer.
Bob, we're practically neighbors, if you do this, I'd like to see your boat during the process. Send me an email at deerows at comcast dot net Also I have talked with several guys in the area that will work with you for much less than hiring someone to do the complete job. Essentially, they will teach you how to roll AwlGrip. Now that I've said that I'm not sure if I could find the business cards of these people. I'll look for the business cards.
quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht
I understand but if the rest of the post eludes to having the entire job done professionally. Around here to do a 330 Sundancer you would expect to pay about 30K for the hull and topsides.
Thats probably about 40 detail jobs...
quote:
Originally posted by deerows
quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht
...If the paintjob doesn't look better than when you buff the original gelcoat back whats the point?
Awlgrip doesn't need to be buffed and polished like gelcoat which means less maintenance
370 Motoryacht
Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2010
- RO Number
- 31959
- Messages
- 521
Im willing to bet their complete restore was wetsand, rubbing compound, polish, wax.