Teak Protection

B

buckeye

Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2002
RO Number
10928
Messages
70
I am looking for alternatives to Sikkens for coating some teak trim. Any recommendations on products?
 
I use Semco. Been very happy with it for years. Start with clean teak, apply 4-5 coats then an annual re-coat is all I do. Teak always looks good
 
Interior or Exterior?

If interior, just use teak oil. Exterior, use varnish.
 
I've seen it done on many $$$$ boats but I always read that varnish wouldn't stay on teak because of the oil in the wood. What's changed; the varnish ??
 
Nope, its a myth. Varnish does not stay on wood, because not enough coats were put on (most common), yearly maintenance coats were skipped or water is able to get under the varnish via a crack (see yearly maintenance, which also includes a touchup inside of a year if any cracks develop). The rules for teak are no different than for oak, mahogany etc.. for varnish.

Lots of people keep varnish on teak for 6-7 years or more between major strippings.
 
Bristol Yacht Finish, about $60. a quart but it last for ever with just a yearly touchup. Need to put on 10 coays but then can go on every hour and a ahlf wiith no sanding between coats. Wood on my 1985 Trawler lloks like new now, I had tried every brand and gimmick know to mankind, finallly a product that works.
 
I second the BRISTOL product! I love it. The admiral hates the smell in the house when I bring home little projects BUT the final look is fantastic, and so far the maintenance is LOW...
 
Small trick for lasting varnish finish..Cut the first coat w/ 40% thinner,allows for better penetration ,2nd coat 20%,knock down rough surface with 0000 steel wool,tack cloth, then full strength,allowing ample time for previous coats to dry,after dry sand w/300 , fast drying is not good,doesn't allow good penetration ,then lay-up as many coats as possible, then yearly,using 200 grit sand off a layer or two and re coat... redid a '71 Rybo 4 years ago she still looks great,it'll last for years. Steve.
 
It is really not a good idea to use steel wool on a fiberglass boat. You will never clean up all the little broken off steel strands. Then you will have multiple rust spots everywhere.
Al
 
I learned that very same steel wool lesson. Luckily I found a product called Rust Remover made by a company named Wink. Picked it up at my local Publix supermarket. This stuff is a miracle and works like magic. Fiberglass rust stains instantly disappeared right before my eyes. My deck was covered with little droplets of steel wool rust. Applied the product and no more rust. Two days later rust had completely returned. The problem was I removed the rust but not the little pieces of wool so they rerusted. I reapplied again got rid of the rust and then flushed the deck with a strong water hose. All clean now and looks great. If you have ever left a rusty tool or paint can on your deck this stuff is a lifesaver. Here it is. http://www.whink.com/rust_stain_remover.htm
 
(Luckily I found a product called Rust Remover made by a company named Wink.)
Nothing beats a perfect finish obtained by knocking down each coat with steel wool,been cleaning up with Wink for years, its definitely worth the extra work. Steve.
 
"Nothing beats a perfect finish obtained by knocking down each coat with steel wool"

What's the point of using steel wool? Why not just use bronze wool or a 3M synthetic wool scuffy pad. You get the same results with no rust spot clean up.
 
The closest thing to Sikkins Citol, that I've seen was "Starbrite Teak Sealer" but It didn't hold up as long as Citol. I just finished today, a Skkins refinish. My last coating lasted a good 2 years before It started to deteriate, I let it go too long (5 years) To refinish, I sanded it , then used standard Teak Cleaner and Brightener which pretty much completely removed any old product, then 4 coats of Citol. It looks great!

In Florida Teak Oil is pretty much a waste of time, in will fade in weeks. If you've got time maintain Varnish, then Varnish or Bristol. But for the ease of application and longevitiy. I really like the Sikkins.
 
Well Capt, you cant get bronze nor 3M scruffy in 0000, something about that crazy steel wool that does the trick, plus if the end result is PERFECT than whats a little extra work, if you were paying me $38.00 per linear foot to re-finish your teak handrails, would you care if it took me extra work?
 
Well, I know what rust particles can do to gel coat. I never found anything that would take them out easily after they got wet and stained, except compounding and on non-skid, you can't get down into all the crevices. I would not mind trying wink to see if it really works on fiberglass as you mention.

Funny thing is that I used bronze wool once, cause I thought I would be "smart" and not do the whole steel wool thing again. I woke up the next morning and the dew had turned all the bronze particles green and I was compounding out the green instead of red rust. At that point, I gave up using wool on my boats!

bp
 
quote:
Originally posted by Bob J

I've seen it done on many $$$$ boats but I always read that varnish wouldn't stay on teak because of the oil in the wood. What's changed; the varnish ??

Click to expand...
As indicated below, the problemis 1) not enough varnish,2)moistuere getting under the varnish,3)improper prep. On exterior teak, it's essential to keep water out from under. On taff rails, take them off get several coats on before re-installation. On the first couple of coats, cut the varnish 50-50 with a good thinner so that it can get into the teak. When it needs to be done again, it will have come out so you can get it off. Don't finish it completely before re=installation since you will have to finish the plugs as well. If you varnish it this was AND KEEP IT COVERED AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE you should only have to completely refinish every 5-6 or maybe 7 years.
 
The funny thing about the "oil in the wood" theory is if you follow Rebecca Whitman's advice, she actually uses teak oil as her initial sealer coat. That's right, she's applying more oil. I've never done that particular technique, but its funny that at least one person who "wrote the book" on varnish, actually uses oil as her first coat. Apparently, oil and varnish are compatible!

bp
 
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