The pink stuff??
- Thread starter RM
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Ok, I don't get it. We are talking pretty significant investments in our boats. IMHO, to save less then 20 bucks seems a little crazy. Why would anybody use less then the highest performance products for mere pennies?. How many of you would use inferior oil or low grade gasoline?
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but if it's the same stuff with a different label why pay more?
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No reasons I can think of but in several instances above, it clearly was not he same stuff. To each their own.
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I've backfilled my engine with -100 (has corrosion inhibitors) every year after winterizing and I don't know for sure if it made a huge difference in reducing corrosion, but I can say that when I change the thermostats and when I replaced the 21 year old circulating pump, I found no flaking rust inside the engine cooling passages that I could see. I follow the basic principle of common sense maintenance, like with the trailer. Corrosion inhibiting sprays are supposed to work, so I used that and a coat of wheel bearing grease and guess what, after years of salt water use, very little corrosion. So I hope back filling the engine with AF and corrosion inhibitors will have the same effect. Next engine will have closed cooling.
I didn't read each & every post re this subject. I was going to try the pink/blue or purple stuff this year but decided not to. Staying with Sierra (propylene glycol) for engines & genny. Too many unanswered questions. How can the pink stuff have corrosion & lubrication additive and still be OK for fresh water systems ? Hmmmmm!
I usually blow out all the water, and then add the cheap pink stuff. One year I could not find the pink RV antifreeze before a predicted hard freeze, so I used windshield washer fluid...very bad idea. My water pump impellor was toast the next spring. 1996 Volvo Penta SX with 5.0L Ford.
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This thread caused me to go read the labels. I thought I had been using pure propylene glycol dilute with water to a -50°F burst point. Turns out the CAMCO brand is a mix of "glycols", ethyl alcohol and other stuff. However, it seems to work with no damage to the the engines. I good with $3/gallon at ACE hardware.
There's no need to fill your holding tank with antifreeze, Just drain it. Any water remaining in the bottom can freeze and thaw with no damage. Same for the potable water tank and water heater. Drain them and they will be fine. You might have to open the TP valve on the water heater to break the vacuum so it will drain.
It's good to -50 and I also drain the block and manifolds when done "just in case". The only place with remaining fluid is the hose running under the engine. Last year in nj we didn't really even have much of a winter.
I don't know what you mean by "prestone 4.79 a gallon" but you should not be putting a toxic antifreeze in a raw water cooled engine because you have no way to recover it when it's time to put the engine back into service.
DO NOT just launch the boat, start the engine, and dump toxic antifreeze into the waterways. Don't dump it on to your driveway or lawn either.
The prestone rv is propylene glycol and states has rust inhibitors and does not dry out rubber. The other stuff is alcohol based and can stiffen and dry out rubber. It works and protects the engine from freezing but for less than 2 bucks more a gallon I am playing it safe.
Al
Al