- Joined
- Mar 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 6
- Messages
- 231
I borrowed this off a couple of friends sites, thought you guys would like it. Its a few different things combined, so I hope it reads ok. Remember most of it is written for people who are in the business of repairing boats, so much of this is over kill for most people, so take it with a grain of salt.
You can never have enough tools. You will never find every possible use for every tool. You will always find a better tool. There is no such thing as the perfect tool.
Boating entails a bit of Do-it-yourself to survive. I'm not referring to the cost that drives us there as much as it is the necessity. The "use to repair ratio" is somewhat less than an airplane but significantly higher than a modern automobile. From a safety stand point, it is best to know more about your boat than the guy who would tow you in.
I've seen a lot of lists and frankly most of them are not written from the view point of a mechanic or a boater in need of the stuff on the list.
The only purpose to have tools onboard, is to service a malfunction that other wise might leave you dead in the water. Understanding what the most likely situation would be, by it's probability of occurrence, is the only way to become prepared. So with that in mind, the first thing you should have on board is a contingency plan. What if I hit a big rock, what if I suck a rope into my prop, what if I loose power to my dash board, what if I seem to be out of fuel, what if I see a warning light on the dash, what if I'm taking on water, what if I'm dead in the water and I need to do something quick... are all things you should ask yourself before you leave the dock. Short of actually being out of fuel, or breaking a drive shaft almost all other problems can be easy to solve.
Learning where wires come from and go to, knowing what fuses do what and having backups, installing a small reserve fuel tank, carrying a spare prop and the tools to change it, using your dual battery system correctly, etc. are but a start to an uneventful day of boating.
The way to start is to plan for the one thing you know the least about. Your first purchase is the engine manual. Take it to the boat and try to use it. I did say use it, not just read it. If this is not possible, stock up on flares.... For you see you can learn the rules of the road, all day long, but if your dead in the water, the only one you need to know is how to use the VHF, in a courteous manner, while screaming "Mayday."
Obviously, memorizing the entire manual isn't the idea here. But, learning how and what to do if a certain failure occurs, by its probability of occurrence, is where to start Then by doing some dry runs, similar to what would have to be done on the water, the situation won't be so overpowering. The best example, is that some motors have to be lifted off of their forward motor mount, to change the alternator belt. So, having a spare belt put in place and tied to the side, before the old one goes out, wouldn't be a bad idea. Look your engine over and look for things similar to that and try to plan for a repair at sea.
Next, all manuals have a trouble shooting flow chart of some sort. Look it over because it usually covers the most frequent and obvious problems that could go wrong with your motor. You should ask, yourself, if you could follow the suggested steps for a certain problem, and where are the items that they suggest looking at. There are some thing's you can't do at sea and you can't carry every spare part, but surprisingly enough most break downs at sea don't need a lot of parts. Often it's not the part itself that failed as much as it is the connections from it, to something else.
Besides the usual pliers, screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, vice-grips, and stuff... the next suggestion isn't a tool as much as it should be a kit. This kit should contain any and all items that would have to do with, the testing and repair of your electrical system. You know, buy a cheap tool box, then stock it up with the fuses, connectors, fuse holders, etc. that are already in use on your boat. Add in electrical tape, wire, crimp connectors, wire stripper and or crimper, wire cutter, 12 volt test light, several jumper wire sets with alligator clips on the ends, and you'll be ready for the normal power outage.
Things vibrate loose, wire connectors overheat, fuses blow, and occasionally a main power supply will go dead. It's not always easy to know how your boat is wired, since few builders supply their buyers with a complete electrical blueprint, but again most problems are simple ones. Fuse holders, switches, battery connections that are exposed to the elements are always the most suspect. Don't always figure that a part failed, if nothing else check some connections and... you know..... jiggle some wires or kick it... (carefully)
Look your boat over. Does it have standard or metric fasteners? Most engines today have a mix of both. Carrying a full set of sockets for both is silly, so check out what sockets and wrenches you do need, and carry only what you need. Usually you'll find things like alternators, power steering pumps, starters, dash board nuts, etc. that could be either standard or metric.
I would like to note that there isn't much sense in carrying tools for jobs you don't plan on doing, so don't just buy every tool or special tool, because you will never need, or want to, let's say.. rebuild a trim motor out on the water.
Not Quite Tools but could be, under the right circumstances...
Wire hangers:
Every body knows that wire hangers have a 101 uses, so don't let your wife fill the closet with those plastic ones..
Rubber inner-tube:
It patches, it plugs, it insulates, it fills holes, it wraps hoses, it stops rattles, it's durable and you can get them for free from some tire stores.
Swiss army knife:
And just what can't a real Swiss Army knife do?
Wire ties:
What do you get when you put 20 wire ties together end to end? A belt to hold up your swim trunks.
Outboard primer bulb:
It can get you home if your fuel pump fails.
Duct tape:
Do I even have to cover this tool.
3 ft. piece of 2x4:
It's a pry bar, it's a hammer, it can be hammered it's light weight, and it floats.
2 liter Pop bottle:
It dips, it catches drips, it won't rust like coffee cans, the cut off top makes a great funnel, and best of all it's not affected by ACETONE.
Besides the basics, Or, These are the basics? You decide.
Although the most basic of tools for a mechanic, I still see guys who don't have these two sockets. A 5/8" plug wrench socket, with hex head and the other with built in swivel. These are from Snap-On and have been with me for quite some time. Along with a 3" and 6" extension, I have never found a plug I couldn't remove. The hex head comes very handy in those cases where there is an obstruction that prevents the use of any type of extension or ratchet. The exhaust manifold on many of the early Volvos, is a good example. The swivel built-in model gets into tight places that the two piece model usually failed.
The expansion puller at the right has kept my knuckles and nerves intact on many a day. Although there are numerous applications, the one I use it for most is the removal of gimbal bearings from the transom assemblies on Mercruiser. What, no more slide hammer? A little bit of adapting to the supplied Snap-On tool and it has yet to fail.
The packing wrench they sell in the boating catalogue is a darn good one, however, this $3.50 pipe wrench from the hardware store has been with me a long time. It stops at about a 3" packing nut, but it works well on the majority of boats. If nothing else, it is a good holder for the secondary jam nut. It stays in place better than the chain wrench and does a hell of a lot less damage than, the old hammer and chisel, I often see others before me have implemented. In those cases where an ambidextrous one arm man is called for, I can only wish you the best of luck.
This innocent little tool is a 5/16 socket head for a ratcheting screw driver. (one of those tools Snap-On doesn't sell) I have had to cut it down a bit to fit the handle of my Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver, but I have never had to warranty one as I seem to loose them periodically. This tool works great for hose clamps.
I got this dash board assembly at a dealer cleaning house sale. To isolate problems not associated with the engine itself, I have found this to be a very useful item. I have modified it from time to time for different wiring setups, and the tach only works on certain models, but I usually use a digital tach these days, anyway. This one has a vacuum gauge in it which makes it a good tag along on those twin engine lake tests.
This 12 volt metal etching tool can etch numbers on engine parts, engrave tools, secretly ID service repairs, and just about anything you can safely pass electricity through, can be marked. It's not as radical as the old number punch and hammer routine or the vibrating engravers, because it doesn't deform the surface you are marking. The tip gets hot and has to be replaced periodically, but around the shop it has saved both time and money.
Yes, Martha it's a toilet plunger. This one I bought from a company who called it, "Fake-A-Lake" . For inboard boats with the water pickup on the bottom, it works great for spring startups on engines, testing air-conditioners on land and testing and flushing sea-water heads. (yea, I've had to fix my share of toilets over the years) All it is, is a plunger head with a garden hose fitting installed. This one came with an expansion type handle, but on sailboats on blocks, the old expansion mop handle or boat hook works well to hold it up in place.
And what would the day be like with dry feet? If you've ever tested any outboard motors searching for remote fuel tank, suction leaks, you already know what I'm talking about. For the rest of you , this little item has a clear piece of hose installed between a male and female fitting. When installed, inline, at the engine between it and the fuel tank, you may just earn that fee your charging for a tune-up. Be sure to make one for each brand you service. Any air bubbles coming through the line means a problem. I'll bet your dealership sells more fuel fittings, too. Never install clear hose permanently in any fuel system.
While we're on hose, I thought I'd remind you of your promise to yourself to get the parts together to make a (almost) universal hot-water heater bypass kit before next fall. The fittings on hot-water tanks are universal, all you need is the male and female unions from your boat builder or hardware supplier to make an adapter. I use clear hose which makes it easier to see the pink anti-freeze in the system.
Of course nobody need's to be told what this is, but when's the last time you used one to pre-prime an inboard, instead of cranking it to death. Or used one to pull a sample of the fuel of that boat that was in storage for 5 years and is leaving tomorrow. Just having one in your tool bag on that next lake test could mean the difference between running in and being towed in. Oh and by the way, did you ever turn one around and pressurize the fuel line to the tank looking for leaks or a bad anti-siphon valve?
This is not really a tool per-say, but it has acted as a pretty good sealer around fuel fittings as a temporary patch when looking for fuel line vacuum leaks. Not so good on a pressurized line but, often those are easier to find. Fusion-Tape isn't cheap but it comes in handy when your trying to keep electrical connections dry, even under water.
I put this milli-amp meter together from parts available at most electronic shops. Besides checking for power drains in a boat that could be causing dead batteries, prematurely, I found that I could locate partially pinched wires in trailer frames, and test for excessive amperage draw of bilge pumps, blowers, etc. The small meter on the rear left is a 10 amp meter, the right rear is a small volt meter, and the large one only goes to 5 amps in 1/8 amp increments. This also works well for the free spin amperage test called for by some trolling motor manufacturers.
Safer than a knife, this hose cutter zips through fuel line like butter. Nothing looks more professional than nice clean cuts when your installing new hoses. Be sure not to try and cut the wire in wire re-enforced hose. It also works on those hard to cut rubber rub-rail inserts. To ease the cut on some hose, a dab of fogging oil on the blade not only makes it cut easier, but protects the cutting blade.
Tear down for engine rebuild and winterize time in the northern states, usually means your going to struggle trying to remove some hoses from their fittings. This trim installation tool from Mac Tools not only loosens the hose from the barb but aids in the removal of the hose with out damaging the hose or the fitting. By slowly working the tip under the hose and then working it back and forth, you can usually get around the entire fitting , loosening the hose, before you pull on it for removal.
This fuel pressure gauge adapter from Mercruiser, is not always easy to install, but a must have for Dyno and lake testing. It lets you install a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel pump and the carb, while still utilizing the original engines steel line. In cases where you can not get this adapter in, you may be forced to remove the steel line and install a temporary flexible one, of course, you still would use this adapter.
This special Snap-On off-set wrench set is a mandatory part of anyone's tool box if you do a lot of engine alignment work.
The 1 1/16" and the 1 1/8" wrench fit most forward motor mount nuts used on V6 and V8 installations. The design lets you get in between the mount and the stringer, motor cover, or deck that restricts access and rotation of the nut with regular wrenches. They are not cheap, but time is money, too.
The old wing style petcock has come in many forms over the years. And rarely did they ever install them in the engine where any normal person could get at them, to drain the engine. This 9/16" socket, modified with slits, made it easier to loosen these valves in those hard to reach spots. Used with a palm ratchet or with a short extension, they'll pop loose and you'll find yourself less aggravated by the end of the day.
There is this "jumbo" tap and die set, at MerCruiser, that installs those threads in the lower gearcase housings for the upper and lower retaining rings. The threads need to be cleaned before reassembly, And, most can't afford the milling machine that inserted those threads, and a wire brush only removes the loose corrosion on the surface. So, I found this hand held thread cleaner set, that does the perfect job. It comes with a full set of metric and standard size thread scrapers and works on large inside and outside thread repairs. Available from most major tool suppliers, this tool is a must have, before doing any gearcase re-building.
The lowly jumper wire. It's plight is simple. It's so basic, that it is often over looked. Have one in your glove box, one in your tool box, one in your boat tool kit. Why? You can test a gauge, start an engine without a key, test the ground on trailer lights, temporarily join two pieces of wire for testing, hold your work order from blowing away... to name but a few of the ideas you'll come up with, if, you have one with you when you need one. Better yet, keep several on hand.
With this 12 volt test light , you'll never prick your finger again trying to check for voltage. It's built in wire holder gives you a perfect insulation holder. It also has a rounded tip probe. The self powered light in the end of the tester lights up those dark places, like under a dash board. It reads in increments from 3 -18 volts and it prevents you from taking a false re-verse polarity reading.
This test light, lights and beeps. It has no ground wire because it senses ground through your body. Again, it is polarity sensitive and it works great in those hard to reach places where a regular ground connection my not be accessible easily or a grounding wire would only be in the way. And don't forget checking marker lights on your boat trailer, you won't have to scratch the paint on the trailer, trying to check for positive power to the marker.
This GM distributor has the cam gear, removed, so that it can be used to pre-prime and pressurize the oiling system on a GM engine before restart, after extended storage or rebuild.
There is an easier way. The lube pressure tank, pictured, has an adapter on it that has the thread of an oil sender. Simply remove the oil sender, from the engine, and thread the fitting, from the pressure tank, into the block. Fill the pressure tank with the correct oil, pressurize it, and let'er rip. No fuss no muss, your engine is pre-lubed. And if you thought about it, you filled the pressure tank with the exact amount of oil required by the motor. The good thing is that it works on any 4 cycle motor including Diesel.
And speaking of oil... isn't it time that everyone reduce your oil spillage into the bilge areas? This cup fits onto the oil filter and catches any drips before they get into the bilge water. It comes in three sizes but I find myself using the 1/2 qt. size on both the 1/2 qt. and the 1 qt. size filters in most cases. There's also one for the V6 type filter.
Tip: Keep one in your garage at home, you'll stay cleaner while your changing your car's oil n filter.
This palm size air grinder is inexpensive and cost effective. The 3M disk adapter with thread-in inserts is sold separately as a kit. The kit has 1",2", and 3" adapters with both sandpaper and fibrous type grinding discs that thread onto the adapter.
To get old gaskets off, this air scraper makes the toughest gaskets seem like Jell-O... From exhaust manifolds to oil pan gaskets, you'll never struggle with a gasket scraper and chemicals again.
Warning: Never use this kind of equipment on aluminum parts, stick with the chemical removers or be very, very, cautious.
For you guys who own or work on the Older OMC Cobra or the current Volvo models, this 5/8" socket with built in swivel should be in the top of your box. It doesn't scratch the paint and it gives a more accurate torque when used with your extension and torque wrench... You do torque your sterndrives back on, don't you? Anyway, buy the whole set, you'll be glad you did, someday.
The ole clamp-on amperage draw tester is a staple of the industry but I thought I'd mention it because of it's many uses. Finding the load test of a starter, trim-n-tilt motor, hydraulic hatch motor, trim tab pump, trolling motor, windshield wipers, refrigerator, toilet pump, macerator, jumbo stereo systems, etc.... And you don't have to disconnect a thing to test it.
This battery load tester not only tests battery output, under load, but will do the same for an alternator output, under load. It has two basic alternator test's with idiot light response. Generally if it passes this quickie set of tests it's probably a good alternator.
When's the last time you had to do any wood working? You probably had this self counter-sink drill set out, for the job. They are inexpensive, pretty durable, and comes in the basic sizes we all use every day. With quick change bits from screw runner to drill, no more need for two screw guns strapped to your waist. But have you been using it to counter sink your stainless screws into your fiberglass panel installation work? Especially fiberglass liner work, it gives a nice "stub-your-toe" free surface, which a barefoot boater will greatly appreciate. Yea., the bits get dull quickly, and have to be sharpened or replaced, but that's why they pay us the big bucks...
Speaking of Installation work.. This carpenters angle with a string attached is a great way to verify hull dead-rise when installing thru-hull transducers and a lot less expensive than the commercially made device. You know the exact degree of deadrise at the point of entry. (Be sure the boat is level, first.) Or just check both sides and do the math to correct for unevenness.
This inline hacksaw is the answer for those times when a stainless nut seizes and you can't get at the blind side to break off the nut. The blade can get into tight places where regular hacksaws can't. I've even bent the hacksaw blade to a 90o angle at the tip, to cut up under dash boards, and behind panels.
This pocket size kV tester really works. This will never be any replacement for the full size engine analyzer, but it's great for day to day usage, during tune-ups in the field or just some afternoon lake testing. It shows conventional and Inverted wave form output, so it work's on modern car engines as well.
When your in and out of boats in a marina all day long, the last thing you want is to fight somebody's old canvas snaps when re-covering the customer's boat. This canvas snap tool grabs the snap itself to help in stretching the canvas back into place. This tool never made me any money, but it sure has saved me some by reducing aggravation and damage to old canvas.
R & R'ing sterndrive engines can get to be a messy job. The biggest culprit is the power steering fluid. This plug set, plugs the fittings on the transom and joins the hoses together, so you can reduce the lose of Dexron. The double female union that ties the hose ends together also lets you run the engine with the power-steering actuator out of the system. Great for when your stand Dyno-ing the completed engine, out of the boat, before installation.
This tool inserts aluminum thread into almost any material. It works like a pop rivet gun, but leaves a nice set of perfectly formed threads in the hole. For those panels that are screwed in place and seem to be constantly on and off, this is the best answer to self-tapping screws. You can counter-sink the threaded insert and a dab of anti-seize on the thread, makes them almost as durable as the stainless screw. The inserts come in all the popular sizes and are available at most of the larger home lumber companies.
The Propylene Glycol Refractometer is one of those tools that has come to be more and more necessary as the world slowly converts to the new non-toxic anti-freezes. This model from Camco, will also test green anti-freeze and battery specific-gravity. Comes with a lighted sight port or an unlighted sight port and is supplied with the battery dipper and syringe for use with anti-freeze. Once you use one, you'll never use your old battery float tester again.
This 1/4 drill / rasp, makes speedy work out of enlarging holes that are just a tad small . It's shank acts like a file to clean the fiberglass burrs off the edges.
And what marine mechanic hasn't broken a snap or two. Those buggers rust up pretty quickly and just don't want to come off. This Vice-Grip with snap Tool attachments is the answer for a mechanic. If your going to do canvas, professionally, this is not your tool. It's a little hard to use and the plastic adapters do wear out, but in a pinch it will do a fine job on those one's / two's type jobs.
When you've tried everything else to get a set of twin engines to run identically, there is one final possibility that the problem is a mix-matched set of cam shafts. This kit from Kent-Moore Tools will verify cam lift and duration. It fits most engines and is easy to set up.
The biggest culprit is aftermarket cams used by re-builders that don't always stack up to the OEM model. They may be close at idle and mid-range, but at 5000 rpm, the performance usually is off a bunch.
These glow stick's last for up to 12 hours, have hooks on the top and won't burn or spark. When working behind a tight dashboard, flashlights and shop cords don't always do a good job or are in the way. Besides turning the dash lights, on, when possible, these glow sticks, especially the yellow and green ones, give more than enough light for all day use.
When will people learn that you can't fix a stripped out spark plug thread with a spring coil or a non-locking sparkplug insert. Nothing slows a tune-up down more than a cheap insert coming out with the spark plug. Kent-Moore makes an insert kit that is almost fool-proof. The installation kit inserts a solid repair sleeve that is locked in place by pins that are driven in place by the tool. Once installed, you can machine the cylinder side of the insert for a near perfect match to the original cylinder head shape, and it stays there. Of course if everybody used a torque wrench to install sparkplugs, we probably wouldn't see as many stripped heads.
The thermostat takes the reading of the operating temperature of the engine at the thermostat housing. Have you ever wondered what the temperature was at the head? I have seen cases where the gauge and warning buzzer said all was well, and yet the heads got hot enough to drop the pressed-in hardened valve seats, out of the head.
This digital pyrometer, will answer those questions by allowing you to monitor accurate temperatures at almost any part of the engine. There are a surface probe, an air flow probe, and a wire loop attachment that can be inserted into or on the engine, manifolds, exhaust pipe, and or in the cooling system itself.
And who doesn't own one of these. Is there anything a Genuine Swiss army knife can't do. It cuts, it slices it dices, it scrapes, saws and reams, and to top it off they last a lifetime. If your in the mobile repair biz, you should never be caught without it.
Is it me, or are you sick and tired of getting into peoples boats and half of the switches and fuses aren't marked.....
An inexpensive label maker like the one, on the right, should be strapped to anybody's body that does installation work.
If you've ever wired customers tow vehicles for trailer lights, you will want to have this tool. It checks spade fuses that are used in most trucks and cars without removing the fuse from the panel. Two lights, inside the tool, tell you which side is the power side and which is dead. It then has an easy removal tool, on the other end, so you can put away those needle nose pliers.
Until I loaned mine out one time, I had a nice EFI fuel rail pressure adapter. Then in a pinch for one, I came up with an adapter from one of those cans of emergency tire inflators and put a brass fitting on to fit my pressure gauge and I haven't looked back since. (as you can see I have a spare)
And this is a love note to the riggers in our shop... This is a hole saw kit... they are inexpensive.... buy your own... Stop borrowing mine.
Oh, and while I'm thinking about it, these are the two taps you need to clean the block and manifold pipe threads before you re-install the drain plugs in those engines you guys left the plugs out of, all winter. I'm not loaning you mine... 1/8-27 NPT and 1/4-18 NPT
You can never have enough tools. You will never find every possible use for every tool. You will always find a better tool. There is no such thing as the perfect tool.
Boating entails a bit of Do-it-yourself to survive. I'm not referring to the cost that drives us there as much as it is the necessity. The "use to repair ratio" is somewhat less than an airplane but significantly higher than a modern automobile. From a safety stand point, it is best to know more about your boat than the guy who would tow you in.
I've seen a lot of lists and frankly most of them are not written from the view point of a mechanic or a boater in need of the stuff on the list.
The only purpose to have tools onboard, is to service a malfunction that other wise might leave you dead in the water. Understanding what the most likely situation would be, by it's probability of occurrence, is the only way to become prepared. So with that in mind, the first thing you should have on board is a contingency plan. What if I hit a big rock, what if I suck a rope into my prop, what if I loose power to my dash board, what if I seem to be out of fuel, what if I see a warning light on the dash, what if I'm taking on water, what if I'm dead in the water and I need to do something quick... are all things you should ask yourself before you leave the dock. Short of actually being out of fuel, or breaking a drive shaft almost all other problems can be easy to solve.
Learning where wires come from and go to, knowing what fuses do what and having backups, installing a small reserve fuel tank, carrying a spare prop and the tools to change it, using your dual battery system correctly, etc. are but a start to an uneventful day of boating.
The way to start is to plan for the one thing you know the least about. Your first purchase is the engine manual. Take it to the boat and try to use it. I did say use it, not just read it. If this is not possible, stock up on flares.... For you see you can learn the rules of the road, all day long, but if your dead in the water, the only one you need to know is how to use the VHF, in a courteous manner, while screaming "Mayday."
Obviously, memorizing the entire manual isn't the idea here. But, learning how and what to do if a certain failure occurs, by its probability of occurrence, is where to start Then by doing some dry runs, similar to what would have to be done on the water, the situation won't be so overpowering. The best example, is that some motors have to be lifted off of their forward motor mount, to change the alternator belt. So, having a spare belt put in place and tied to the side, before the old one goes out, wouldn't be a bad idea. Look your engine over and look for things similar to that and try to plan for a repair at sea.
Next, all manuals have a trouble shooting flow chart of some sort. Look it over because it usually covers the most frequent and obvious problems that could go wrong with your motor. You should ask, yourself, if you could follow the suggested steps for a certain problem, and where are the items that they suggest looking at. There are some thing's you can't do at sea and you can't carry every spare part, but surprisingly enough most break downs at sea don't need a lot of parts. Often it's not the part itself that failed as much as it is the connections from it, to something else.
Besides the usual pliers, screwdrivers, adjustable wrench, vice-grips, and stuff... the next suggestion isn't a tool as much as it should be a kit. This kit should contain any and all items that would have to do with, the testing and repair of your electrical system. You know, buy a cheap tool box, then stock it up with the fuses, connectors, fuse holders, etc. that are already in use on your boat. Add in electrical tape, wire, crimp connectors, wire stripper and or crimper, wire cutter, 12 volt test light, several jumper wire sets with alligator clips on the ends, and you'll be ready for the normal power outage.
Things vibrate loose, wire connectors overheat, fuses blow, and occasionally a main power supply will go dead. It's not always easy to know how your boat is wired, since few builders supply their buyers with a complete electrical blueprint, but again most problems are simple ones. Fuse holders, switches, battery connections that are exposed to the elements are always the most suspect. Don't always figure that a part failed, if nothing else check some connections and... you know..... jiggle some wires or kick it... (carefully)
Look your boat over. Does it have standard or metric fasteners? Most engines today have a mix of both. Carrying a full set of sockets for both is silly, so check out what sockets and wrenches you do need, and carry only what you need. Usually you'll find things like alternators, power steering pumps, starters, dash board nuts, etc. that could be either standard or metric.
I would like to note that there isn't much sense in carrying tools for jobs you don't plan on doing, so don't just buy every tool or special tool, because you will never need, or want to, let's say.. rebuild a trim motor out on the water.
Not Quite Tools but could be, under the right circumstances...
Wire hangers:
Every body knows that wire hangers have a 101 uses, so don't let your wife fill the closet with those plastic ones..
Rubber inner-tube:
It patches, it plugs, it insulates, it fills holes, it wraps hoses, it stops rattles, it's durable and you can get them for free from some tire stores.
Swiss army knife:
And just what can't a real Swiss Army knife do?
Wire ties:
What do you get when you put 20 wire ties together end to end? A belt to hold up your swim trunks.
Outboard primer bulb:
It can get you home if your fuel pump fails.
Duct tape:
Do I even have to cover this tool.
3 ft. piece of 2x4:
It's a pry bar, it's a hammer, it can be hammered it's light weight, and it floats.
2 liter Pop bottle:
It dips, it catches drips, it won't rust like coffee cans, the cut off top makes a great funnel, and best of all it's not affected by ACETONE.
Besides the basics, Or, These are the basics? You decide.
Although the most basic of tools for a mechanic, I still see guys who don't have these two sockets. A 5/8" plug wrench socket, with hex head and the other with built in swivel. These are from Snap-On and have been with me for quite some time. Along with a 3" and 6" extension, I have never found a plug I couldn't remove. The hex head comes very handy in those cases where there is an obstruction that prevents the use of any type of extension or ratchet. The exhaust manifold on many of the early Volvos, is a good example. The swivel built-in model gets into tight places that the two piece model usually failed.
The expansion puller at the right has kept my knuckles and nerves intact on many a day. Although there are numerous applications, the one I use it for most is the removal of gimbal bearings from the transom assemblies on Mercruiser. What, no more slide hammer? A little bit of adapting to the supplied Snap-On tool and it has yet to fail.
The packing wrench they sell in the boating catalogue is a darn good one, however, this $3.50 pipe wrench from the hardware store has been with me a long time. It stops at about a 3" packing nut, but it works well on the majority of boats. If nothing else, it is a good holder for the secondary jam nut. It stays in place better than the chain wrench and does a hell of a lot less damage than, the old hammer and chisel, I often see others before me have implemented. In those cases where an ambidextrous one arm man is called for, I can only wish you the best of luck.
This innocent little tool is a 5/16 socket head for a ratcheting screw driver. (one of those tools Snap-On doesn't sell) I have had to cut it down a bit to fit the handle of my Snap-On ratcheting screwdriver, but I have never had to warranty one as I seem to loose them periodically. This tool works great for hose clamps.
I got this dash board assembly at a dealer cleaning house sale. To isolate problems not associated with the engine itself, I have found this to be a very useful item. I have modified it from time to time for different wiring setups, and the tach only works on certain models, but I usually use a digital tach these days, anyway. This one has a vacuum gauge in it which makes it a good tag along on those twin engine lake tests.
This 12 volt metal etching tool can etch numbers on engine parts, engrave tools, secretly ID service repairs, and just about anything you can safely pass electricity through, can be marked. It's not as radical as the old number punch and hammer routine or the vibrating engravers, because it doesn't deform the surface you are marking. The tip gets hot and has to be replaced periodically, but around the shop it has saved both time and money.
Yes, Martha it's a toilet plunger. This one I bought from a company who called it, "Fake-A-Lake" . For inboard boats with the water pickup on the bottom, it works great for spring startups on engines, testing air-conditioners on land and testing and flushing sea-water heads. (yea, I've had to fix my share of toilets over the years) All it is, is a plunger head with a garden hose fitting installed. This one came with an expansion type handle, but on sailboats on blocks, the old expansion mop handle or boat hook works well to hold it up in place.
And what would the day be like with dry feet? If you've ever tested any outboard motors searching for remote fuel tank, suction leaks, you already know what I'm talking about. For the rest of you , this little item has a clear piece of hose installed between a male and female fitting. When installed, inline, at the engine between it and the fuel tank, you may just earn that fee your charging for a tune-up. Be sure to make one for each brand you service. Any air bubbles coming through the line means a problem. I'll bet your dealership sells more fuel fittings, too. Never install clear hose permanently in any fuel system.
While we're on hose, I thought I'd remind you of your promise to yourself to get the parts together to make a (almost) universal hot-water heater bypass kit before next fall. The fittings on hot-water tanks are universal, all you need is the male and female unions from your boat builder or hardware supplier to make an adapter. I use clear hose which makes it easier to see the pink anti-freeze in the system.
Of course nobody need's to be told what this is, but when's the last time you used one to pre-prime an inboard, instead of cranking it to death. Or used one to pull a sample of the fuel of that boat that was in storage for 5 years and is leaving tomorrow. Just having one in your tool bag on that next lake test could mean the difference between running in and being towed in. Oh and by the way, did you ever turn one around and pressurize the fuel line to the tank looking for leaks or a bad anti-siphon valve?
This is not really a tool per-say, but it has acted as a pretty good sealer around fuel fittings as a temporary patch when looking for fuel line vacuum leaks. Not so good on a pressurized line but, often those are easier to find. Fusion-Tape isn't cheap but it comes in handy when your trying to keep electrical connections dry, even under water.
I put this milli-amp meter together from parts available at most electronic shops. Besides checking for power drains in a boat that could be causing dead batteries, prematurely, I found that I could locate partially pinched wires in trailer frames, and test for excessive amperage draw of bilge pumps, blowers, etc. The small meter on the rear left is a 10 amp meter, the right rear is a small volt meter, and the large one only goes to 5 amps in 1/8 amp increments. This also works well for the free spin amperage test called for by some trolling motor manufacturers.
Safer than a knife, this hose cutter zips through fuel line like butter. Nothing looks more professional than nice clean cuts when your installing new hoses. Be sure not to try and cut the wire in wire re-enforced hose. It also works on those hard to cut rubber rub-rail inserts. To ease the cut on some hose, a dab of fogging oil on the blade not only makes it cut easier, but protects the cutting blade.
Tear down for engine rebuild and winterize time in the northern states, usually means your going to struggle trying to remove some hoses from their fittings. This trim installation tool from Mac Tools not only loosens the hose from the barb but aids in the removal of the hose with out damaging the hose or the fitting. By slowly working the tip under the hose and then working it back and forth, you can usually get around the entire fitting , loosening the hose, before you pull on it for removal.
This fuel pressure gauge adapter from Mercruiser, is not always easy to install, but a must have for Dyno and lake testing. It lets you install a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel pump and the carb, while still utilizing the original engines steel line. In cases where you can not get this adapter in, you may be forced to remove the steel line and install a temporary flexible one, of course, you still would use this adapter.
This special Snap-On off-set wrench set is a mandatory part of anyone's tool box if you do a lot of engine alignment work.
The 1 1/16" and the 1 1/8" wrench fit most forward motor mount nuts used on V6 and V8 installations. The design lets you get in between the mount and the stringer, motor cover, or deck that restricts access and rotation of the nut with regular wrenches. They are not cheap, but time is money, too.
The old wing style petcock has come in many forms over the years. And rarely did they ever install them in the engine where any normal person could get at them, to drain the engine. This 9/16" socket, modified with slits, made it easier to loosen these valves in those hard to reach spots. Used with a palm ratchet or with a short extension, they'll pop loose and you'll find yourself less aggravated by the end of the day.
There is this "jumbo" tap and die set, at MerCruiser, that installs those threads in the lower gearcase housings for the upper and lower retaining rings. The threads need to be cleaned before reassembly, And, most can't afford the milling machine that inserted those threads, and a wire brush only removes the loose corrosion on the surface. So, I found this hand held thread cleaner set, that does the perfect job. It comes with a full set of metric and standard size thread scrapers and works on large inside and outside thread repairs. Available from most major tool suppliers, this tool is a must have, before doing any gearcase re-building.
The lowly jumper wire. It's plight is simple. It's so basic, that it is often over looked. Have one in your glove box, one in your tool box, one in your boat tool kit. Why? You can test a gauge, start an engine without a key, test the ground on trailer lights, temporarily join two pieces of wire for testing, hold your work order from blowing away... to name but a few of the ideas you'll come up with, if, you have one with you when you need one. Better yet, keep several on hand.
With this 12 volt test light , you'll never prick your finger again trying to check for voltage. It's built in wire holder gives you a perfect insulation holder. It also has a rounded tip probe. The self powered light in the end of the tester lights up those dark places, like under a dash board. It reads in increments from 3 -18 volts and it prevents you from taking a false re-verse polarity reading.
This test light, lights and beeps. It has no ground wire because it senses ground through your body. Again, it is polarity sensitive and it works great in those hard to reach places where a regular ground connection my not be accessible easily or a grounding wire would only be in the way. And don't forget checking marker lights on your boat trailer, you won't have to scratch the paint on the trailer, trying to check for positive power to the marker.
This GM distributor has the cam gear, removed, so that it can be used to pre-prime and pressurize the oiling system on a GM engine before restart, after extended storage or rebuild.
There is an easier way. The lube pressure tank, pictured, has an adapter on it that has the thread of an oil sender. Simply remove the oil sender, from the engine, and thread the fitting, from the pressure tank, into the block. Fill the pressure tank with the correct oil, pressurize it, and let'er rip. No fuss no muss, your engine is pre-lubed. And if you thought about it, you filled the pressure tank with the exact amount of oil required by the motor. The good thing is that it works on any 4 cycle motor including Diesel.
And speaking of oil... isn't it time that everyone reduce your oil spillage into the bilge areas? This cup fits onto the oil filter and catches any drips before they get into the bilge water. It comes in three sizes but I find myself using the 1/2 qt. size on both the 1/2 qt. and the 1 qt. size filters in most cases. There's also one for the V6 type filter.
Tip: Keep one in your garage at home, you'll stay cleaner while your changing your car's oil n filter.
This palm size air grinder is inexpensive and cost effective. The 3M disk adapter with thread-in inserts is sold separately as a kit. The kit has 1",2", and 3" adapters with both sandpaper and fibrous type grinding discs that thread onto the adapter.
To get old gaskets off, this air scraper makes the toughest gaskets seem like Jell-O... From exhaust manifolds to oil pan gaskets, you'll never struggle with a gasket scraper and chemicals again.
Warning: Never use this kind of equipment on aluminum parts, stick with the chemical removers or be very, very, cautious.
For you guys who own or work on the Older OMC Cobra or the current Volvo models, this 5/8" socket with built in swivel should be in the top of your box. It doesn't scratch the paint and it gives a more accurate torque when used with your extension and torque wrench... You do torque your sterndrives back on, don't you? Anyway, buy the whole set, you'll be glad you did, someday.
The ole clamp-on amperage draw tester is a staple of the industry but I thought I'd mention it because of it's many uses. Finding the load test of a starter, trim-n-tilt motor, hydraulic hatch motor, trim tab pump, trolling motor, windshield wipers, refrigerator, toilet pump, macerator, jumbo stereo systems, etc.... And you don't have to disconnect a thing to test it.
This battery load tester not only tests battery output, under load, but will do the same for an alternator output, under load. It has two basic alternator test's with idiot light response. Generally if it passes this quickie set of tests it's probably a good alternator.
When's the last time you had to do any wood working? You probably had this self counter-sink drill set out, for the job. They are inexpensive, pretty durable, and comes in the basic sizes we all use every day. With quick change bits from screw runner to drill, no more need for two screw guns strapped to your waist. But have you been using it to counter sink your stainless screws into your fiberglass panel installation work? Especially fiberglass liner work, it gives a nice "stub-your-toe" free surface, which a barefoot boater will greatly appreciate. Yea., the bits get dull quickly, and have to be sharpened or replaced, but that's why they pay us the big bucks...
Speaking of Installation work.. This carpenters angle with a string attached is a great way to verify hull dead-rise when installing thru-hull transducers and a lot less expensive than the commercially made device. You know the exact degree of deadrise at the point of entry. (Be sure the boat is level, first.) Or just check both sides and do the math to correct for unevenness.
This inline hacksaw is the answer for those times when a stainless nut seizes and you can't get at the blind side to break off the nut. The blade can get into tight places where regular hacksaws can't. I've even bent the hacksaw blade to a 90o angle at the tip, to cut up under dash boards, and behind panels.
This pocket size kV tester really works. This will never be any replacement for the full size engine analyzer, but it's great for day to day usage, during tune-ups in the field or just some afternoon lake testing. It shows conventional and Inverted wave form output, so it work's on modern car engines as well.
When your in and out of boats in a marina all day long, the last thing you want is to fight somebody's old canvas snaps when re-covering the customer's boat. This canvas snap tool grabs the snap itself to help in stretching the canvas back into place. This tool never made me any money, but it sure has saved me some by reducing aggravation and damage to old canvas.
R & R'ing sterndrive engines can get to be a messy job. The biggest culprit is the power steering fluid. This plug set, plugs the fittings on the transom and joins the hoses together, so you can reduce the lose of Dexron. The double female union that ties the hose ends together also lets you run the engine with the power-steering actuator out of the system. Great for when your stand Dyno-ing the completed engine, out of the boat, before installation.
This tool inserts aluminum thread into almost any material. It works like a pop rivet gun, but leaves a nice set of perfectly formed threads in the hole. For those panels that are screwed in place and seem to be constantly on and off, this is the best answer to self-tapping screws. You can counter-sink the threaded insert and a dab of anti-seize on the thread, makes them almost as durable as the stainless screw. The inserts come in all the popular sizes and are available at most of the larger home lumber companies.
The Propylene Glycol Refractometer is one of those tools that has come to be more and more necessary as the world slowly converts to the new non-toxic anti-freezes. This model from Camco, will also test green anti-freeze and battery specific-gravity. Comes with a lighted sight port or an unlighted sight port and is supplied with the battery dipper and syringe for use with anti-freeze. Once you use one, you'll never use your old battery float tester again.
This 1/4 drill / rasp, makes speedy work out of enlarging holes that are just a tad small . It's shank acts like a file to clean the fiberglass burrs off the edges.
And what marine mechanic hasn't broken a snap or two. Those buggers rust up pretty quickly and just don't want to come off. This Vice-Grip with snap Tool attachments is the answer for a mechanic. If your going to do canvas, professionally, this is not your tool. It's a little hard to use and the plastic adapters do wear out, but in a pinch it will do a fine job on those one's / two's type jobs.
When you've tried everything else to get a set of twin engines to run identically, there is one final possibility that the problem is a mix-matched set of cam shafts. This kit from Kent-Moore Tools will verify cam lift and duration. It fits most engines and is easy to set up.
The biggest culprit is aftermarket cams used by re-builders that don't always stack up to the OEM model. They may be close at idle and mid-range, but at 5000 rpm, the performance usually is off a bunch.
These glow stick's last for up to 12 hours, have hooks on the top and won't burn or spark. When working behind a tight dashboard, flashlights and shop cords don't always do a good job or are in the way. Besides turning the dash lights, on, when possible, these glow sticks, especially the yellow and green ones, give more than enough light for all day use.
When will people learn that you can't fix a stripped out spark plug thread with a spring coil or a non-locking sparkplug insert. Nothing slows a tune-up down more than a cheap insert coming out with the spark plug. Kent-Moore makes an insert kit that is almost fool-proof. The installation kit inserts a solid repair sleeve that is locked in place by pins that are driven in place by the tool. Once installed, you can machine the cylinder side of the insert for a near perfect match to the original cylinder head shape, and it stays there. Of course if everybody used a torque wrench to install sparkplugs, we probably wouldn't see as many stripped heads.
The thermostat takes the reading of the operating temperature of the engine at the thermostat housing. Have you ever wondered what the temperature was at the head? I have seen cases where the gauge and warning buzzer said all was well, and yet the heads got hot enough to drop the pressed-in hardened valve seats, out of the head.
This digital pyrometer, will answer those questions by allowing you to monitor accurate temperatures at almost any part of the engine. There are a surface probe, an air flow probe, and a wire loop attachment that can be inserted into or on the engine, manifolds, exhaust pipe, and or in the cooling system itself.
And who doesn't own one of these. Is there anything a Genuine Swiss army knife can't do. It cuts, it slices it dices, it scrapes, saws and reams, and to top it off they last a lifetime. If your in the mobile repair biz, you should never be caught without it.
Is it me, or are you sick and tired of getting into peoples boats and half of the switches and fuses aren't marked.....
An inexpensive label maker like the one, on the right, should be strapped to anybody's body that does installation work.
If you've ever wired customers tow vehicles for trailer lights, you will want to have this tool. It checks spade fuses that are used in most trucks and cars without removing the fuse from the panel. Two lights, inside the tool, tell you which side is the power side and which is dead. It then has an easy removal tool, on the other end, so you can put away those needle nose pliers.
Until I loaned mine out one time, I had a nice EFI fuel rail pressure adapter. Then in a pinch for one, I came up with an adapter from one of those cans of emergency tire inflators and put a brass fitting on to fit my pressure gauge and I haven't looked back since. (as you can see I have a spare)
And this is a love note to the riggers in our shop... This is a hole saw kit... they are inexpensive.... buy your own... Stop borrowing mine.
Oh, and while I'm thinking about it, these are the two taps you need to clean the block and manifold pipe threads before you re-install the drain plugs in those engines you guys left the plugs out of, all winter. I'm not loaning you mine... 1/8-27 NPT and 1/4-18 NPT