wetsanding new gel coat

BoatCrazy

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Just had some fiberglass work done to my little center console. The guy who did the work used a roller to put the gel coat on. Dont ask me why he did it that way. Anyways, now I have a section of the gunwale thats as rough as nonskid..

The fiberglass guy told me I could wetsand it down to remove the lumps..He suggested either 40 grit paper or 60 grit paper to smooth it out...Any thoughts on grit or process on how to do this?
 
40 OR 60 will remove barnacles! I would start with 320 or 400 then work my way up to 2000 grit then polish it.
 
Are there any tricks to wet sanding? Never done it before? I know to keep the area wet, and go in the same direction...
 
what Paul said gel coat is soft. use a sanding block and lots of water check the work carefully. You will need a buffer and compound for final polishing
 
No real tricks. keep it wet. sand lightly to avoid burn thru. remove only enough to remove scratches
 
Ummm your glass guy did not finish the job. A rough finish is difficult to fair and always leave enough material to not bleed through. Usually one might block sand after a rough coat then spray the final gel that would only be touched with maybe 400 or 600 before polishing

in short fire your glass guy he did not finish the job
 
<< rant ON >>

Grrrr. Fire the guy!

<< rant OFF >>

I'm w/ Ghost. Job isn't done yet, and coarser than 100 grit will remove everything he put on during the first pass ( and likely damage the f-glass ). Gel coat is soft, as in, "gelatin".
 
What is the best compound to use after the 2000 grit?

Thanks,

Kris
 
He wanted an extra $1000 bucks to sand it out and finish it. The area is 1 foot long by 8 inches in height. He told me its an hour worth of work and I couldnt justify him having the boat for an extra two weeks for an hours worth of work, while spending another $1000. I just couldnt let him do it. Call me cheap, but I felt I could either do it myself or just live with it the way it is..
 
KGD: I use Finess-It II in the can paste form although the squirt bottle stuff works just as well.

BC: I dont blame you. You can do the sanding yourself. just take it slow to avoid burn thru.
 
One foot by 8 inches is a lot of area to be rough sanding. Plus, I say again that you likely need to spray after the rough sanding to blend the gel in. This is not complicated, but it does require some technique.

If for some reason you actually can wet sand from 320 down to 1000 grit and not bleed through at some point in either the new gel or old, then you can go polish out with compound and then actual polish. I like 3m supercut, then finesse. Once you get through the supercut you can see whether you did a good job or you can see artifacts or not. If you do, break out the 320 and repeat. If you bleed through, concentrate on getting things nice and flat and fair. Resist the urge to stop using a block and create wavy spots with your fingers. Once flat, and well sanded an enlarged area into good gel coat, get a sprayer and spray a very nice smooth coat onto the flat surface. One you do that, you should be able to just knock the orange peel off the top with 400-600 grit, then work through the grits up to at least 1000 then cut/polish. I don't work anything more than 800 until I've polished at least once to see any "artifacts" that will require more spraying, cause why do the work when I'm going to need to do it again anyway.

To say it another way. In a decent gel coat job of something like 10 steps, we just described steps four through ten. Your gel guy did step one through three, which consists of rough hogging out the old surface and filling with a rough filling of thickened gel. Or again, how do you say in your language...."he did the easy part". The parts that require some skill, experience and feel were not done. You don't hire a gel person for steps 1-3. Anybody could do that. Heck, your not even at the point where you even know whether the color match is right as you don't really see that until the polishing is done.

If this gel guy is too expensive or you can't get him within two weeks (lord knows my gel people would not do a rough application requiring 60 grit to sand)then find another gel guy. If you do it yourself, you really need some help in these stages to get it right. I might do the above steps 2 or 3 times to get it really right. That's because I've had a lot of help from a really good gel person who corrected my work and gave me lots and lots of pointers. I'm a lot better than you. You might not get it in 2 or 3 tries. Granted my gel color is tough to match. We start with matched gel and then final adjust it on site for each area of the boat.
 
Frankly, I suggest sanding it down and starting over. That is what you are going to end up doing any way if it is as rough as you say.

This time spray the gelcoat on to start with a smooth finish and work from there.

Your so called gelcoat guy should find another line of work. And refund you your money.
 
If it is only an hours worth of work ...... why would he charge you $1,000? Seems somewhat excessive.
 
$1,000 for an hour's work??? Thats more than I charge, and I'm a lawyer!
 
the glass guy told me its expensive because there is a lot he has to do in that hour.
 
In one hour I can vacuum bag a veneer onto a panel, trim the panel, and get to the first coat of shellac ( woodworking, guys ). This includes -all- sanding grades and cabinet scraper to complete the top panel. I would be happy to get $100 for this skilled effort. ( And this would include a budget for $20 of sanding disks/sheets etc. ) Methinks the guy simply does not want the job.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BoatCrazy

He wanted an extra $1000 bucks to sand it out and finish it. The area is 1 foot long by 8 inches in height. He told me its an hour worth of work and I couldnt justify him having the boat for an extra two weeks for an hours worth of work, while spending another $1000. I just couldnt let him do it. Call me cheap, but I felt I could either do it myself or just live with it the way it is..





$1000 for an hour's work? I'll come out of retirement for those wages!

My thought is that if you contract for a gelcoat repair, the smoothing and polishing is included in the price.

I suppose it's over and done with now, but I wouldn't use the same person in the future.

Use a block when sanding, don't just hold the paper in your hands. There's a chance you will sand completely through the high spots before you smooth the entire area out.
 
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