Alpha I Gen II Bellows Replacement

BillK

BillK

Well-known member
Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2000
RO Number
775
Messages
1,221
So at 15yrs my 1999 SeaRay needs the bellows and shift cable replaced. The shift cable bellows has developed a slow leak only when the drive is raised. Pulled the drive off last weekend and verified the u-jount bellows is fine. Heck, still looks pretty darn good. But, given the time and effort to replace the shift cable, it's time to do all 3. So my dilemma, and I have all winter to ponder this, is do I do it myself or pony up and have someone else do it. I figure by the time I do it myself I will have about $300 in parts and a couple of new tools - and probably two Saturday's of beating my knuckles. Marina quoted $900 to replace all three bellows and shift cable, + $175 if I want the gimbal bearing replaced. I checked the gimbal bearing, it's as smooth as it could be, so does not need replacing.

I've done most of my own work over the years, but never a bellows job.

So those wondering how a Mercruiser bellows set lasted 15yrs? Well this is a freshwater boat that has spent it's life on a lift, out of the sun with the drive stored down - except for the last year, it's in an enclosed dry storage now and have to leave the drive up now. We will see how that affects the bellows life.

Just hate to pay someone to do a job I can probably do just as well. I've got some time to think about it.
 
I had the same thoughts when my boat hit eight seasons. I do as much of my own work to keep boating costs to a minimum. This is what I decided and why, first my boat goes in the water in the spring and stays until it gets hauled and put away for winter. The parts are cheap but the labor gets expensive. The final decision was to go with a Mercruiser dealer because they warranty their work for a year. I figured if I made a mistake I would have to pay to haul and relaunch and also do the job over or end up paying someone to fix my mistake. The good part was the shop said this is what we consider the parts list for that service since we are in there anyway, three bellows, shift cable, gimbal bearing, trim and limit switches, align drive. They also changed the steering shaft seals and then they bay tested the boat made adjustments, cleaned the boat and the following year when the boat first went back in I had a shifting issue which was an adjustment but they covered it as part of the previous years service. The point is you can do it yourself but if you mess up are you ready to do it over? It ended up costing 1500.00 per engine but six seasons later it's still going strong.
Rob
 
I've done the bellows more than once on my OMC Cobra- piece of cake. I'm just finishing up refurbishing a Mercruiser Alpha One- I'm inclined to call it a pain in the butt, but that may be a bit harsh. I find the OMC to be easier to work on. Both boats are 3.0 GM powerplants.

If I didn't love my uncle so much or things weren't really tight money-wise, I think I'd let someone else deal with the bellows on an Alpha drive. You DO need the bellows sleeve/ring installation tool on a Merc. You can make a really long 9/16" deep well for the shift cable. No special tools needed on an OMC.
 
Also, what does everyone think about using the exhaust tube vs exhaust bellows? Seems with the tube installation is a lot easier (no tool required) - and only downside I think is it would be a bit louder since when the drive is trimmed up the exhaust would not exit through the prop-hub. Like I said, got the winter to think about it, but leaning towards doing it myself. No problems keeping the boat where I can work on it, so I can take all the time I want. Basically I would be saving about $600 in labor and have the satisfaction of doing it myself.
 
Do it yourself so you know what's what.

get the tube.
 
Any opinions / experience with the Sierra bellows and shift cable? Their kits are definitely less expensive ($75-$100 for what I need), but also you can get the Sierra kit with the exhaust tube for Alphas, Mercury kits all have the exhaust bellows. I've used Sierra parts a good bit in the past and have had no problems, really could not tell them from the OEM Mercury.
 
I did install a Sierra intermediate shift cable on my Bravo I in 2011 and it's been fine. Can't say about the bellows.
 
I had a problem last year with a Sierra tune up kit for my V6 it came with a V8 rotor.
 
quote:
Originally posted by BillK

Any opinions / experience with the Sierra bellows and shift cable? Their kits are definitely less expensive ($75-$100 for what I need), but also you can get the Sierra kit with the exhaust tube for Alphas, Mercury kits all have the exhaust bellows. I've used Sierra parts a good bit in the past and have had no problems, really could not tell them from the OEM Mercury.

Click to expand...


I'm probably going to tackle this job in the Spring on TWO Alpha's. I know from other forums that at least one of the bellows can be a real SOB to put on, and that Merc OEM parts fit best.

My take is that I'm not going to all that effort to save a ton of money, then try to squeeze a few bucks more from the materials cost. I want my best chance of success without fitment or longevity issues. I'll be buyng Merc OEM.

My .02
 
I only put the drive bellows on my BII once using a merc drive kit. The drive end for the bellows went on just using my fingers. No tool needed.

Also, the biggest problem attaching the bellows on the transom end is no clear access to the hose clamps. look for better alignment to the hose clamps and drill 3/8" holes so you can get 1/4" drive sockets at the hose clamps. Been doing it this way for over 20 years.
 
Charlie, are you saying that you have always used the aftermarket parts (Sierra etc) or that you have only done the job once?
 
The BII has the drive bellows with the drive end that needs the ring to seat it, just like the alpha II. I've only had to do it once so far. I used a merc bellows and it went on real easy with just my fingers. The earlier alphas used a hose clamp to attach to the drive end. ALL the earlier bellows were a PITA to get them on the drive end. Used to kill my fingers. That's why the exhaust TUBE was such a great development. Same for the drive bellows with the ring.
 
Thanks Charlie - I did some checking on parts over the weekend. I think the plan is to go with Mercury OEM parts and the exhaust tube.
 
I admire you guys. There is no way I am tackling that job. You are right I am sure there is satisfaction in doing it yourself but me I am going with the guy who has done it 20 or more times. X2 on going with merc on the bellows. It's a boat they cost money we all knew that going in. I woulds rather save my knuckles.
 
And not second guessing myself every-time I leave my boat lol
 
I just sea trialed the boat I rebuilt for my uncle yesterday. No leaks! I used the Sierra bellows (U-joint, exhaust, and shift) with success. I did need the special tool for the bellows sleeve ring, however.

I've used Sierra, Volvo, and OEM bellows on my OMC Cobra over the years with good performance out of each.
 
Boat is winterized right now so I won't really get into this until spring, but I have started collecting the tools and parts I'll need. One thing I was really worried about is getting the hinge pins loose - we all know they are notorious for being impossible to remove. Well, the first took I bought is the Mercruiser hinge pin tool - I though I would at least see if the pins would move. So yesterday I was able to give each pin a turn - they were tight, but using a breaker bar I was able to get them loose. That was a relief! A tip, if you are doing this job, I would at least loosen these pins BEFORE you remove the drive, otherwise the PORT side will be a pain as the gimbal housing will want to raise up as you try and loosen the pin.

Other thing I noticed is the trim sender/limit switches are pretty rough looking, cracked wires etc - they still work surprisingly, but I added new ones to the parts list. Another thing I looked at yesterday is the lower shift cable and access - I think I am going to have to remove the STB battery and a divider bulkhead that separates the batter/storage area from the engine. Once I do that I should be able to get back there.

And last, I had an idea yesterday - I'm thinking of installing a transom trim switch, looks like Mercury sells a kit that is pretty much plug n play other than mounting the switch somewhere. I find myself constantly crawling in and out of the boat when I am doing any drive work. Anyone else installed on of these - I think they pretty much come on most new boats.
 
Good info on loosening that hinge pin prior to removing the drive. Forgot all about it myself.

It's really pretty easy to install a push button switch for the tilt/trim. I mounted mine inside my 'Chimmney'. It's just an access cover to my heat exchanger which I re-positioned on the inner transom...which was a brilliant move on my part, if I do say so myself. It opened up access to the whole front of the engine.

If I remember right the red wire is hot (split off to each push button) and a green and a blue, one to the other side of each push button.
 
Started on this project last weekend, planning to do the following:
- Install transom tilt switch
- Replace trim sender/limit switch (trim up quit working, trim down, and tilt up/down work) these are original, wires are cracked etc.
- Replace u-joint bellows
- Replace exhaust bellows - with exhaust tube.
- Replace water hose.
- Replace gear lube hose.
- Replace shift cable / bellows.

This past weekend:
- Installed my transom tilt switch.
- Pulled the drive and took it home, replaced the water pump.
- Used my new alignment tool to check alignment - seems good.
- Inspected gimbal bearing, smooth as silk, see no reason to replace it.
- Plan to pull the gimbal housing off next weekend and start on the bellows / shift cable work.

Now that I have all the parts / special tools, I am becoming more anxious about the shift cable than anything else. I've adjusted it in the past with no issue, but am worried about removing the old cable mainly. I know you disconnect it and remove the cable core, then pull the sheath out after you loosen the transom side with the special socket (I plan to tie a pull cord to it to help pulling the new cable in). My concern is the plastic sheath that protects the cable against the exhaust Y-pipe. I have read that you have to remove that or it will keep the cable from pulling out the transom. It get's bunched up in the transom assembly and you will play heck getting it out. I can get my hand on it, but it seems stuck and won't slide up the cable so I can remove it. If I can't get it off Saturday, I'm thinking about just cutting the threaded fitting off the cable at the transom end and pulling it out the other way - anyone ever done that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top