Any consideration for cleaning new Fiberglass?

T

TimHenn

Member
Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2000
RO Number
126
Messages
346
I've always run my buffer with a light application of Formula 5 around the hull then applied wax. For my 20+ year old hull this was a good approach with good results.

On new fiberglass I don't think I want to use any compound material just a "cleaner wax" one time around? Correct?

Any consideration or recommended products? I've always used Meguiars #56 in the past

Tim
 
I wouldn't use a cleaner wax. I would use one of the polymer polishes like Rejex, Starbrite with PTFE, Pro Polish, Zaino, etc. Their application and removal are easier than wax, and they last longer than wax. All waxes and polymer polishes are cut in a solvent blend of some sort. This is what gives the products the cleaning power and acts as the application vehicle. When you use a wax, each succesive wax coat dissolves the previous coat. With a polymer, you can build up multiple coats if you wish.

Prior to using the wax or polish, wash your boat with dawn dishwashing liquid. This will remove all the grime and give you a clean non-contaminated surface.

Bob
 
Cleaner waxes have compound in them. So I second, third?, the polymers.

But I would use Finesse It or something like it after the Dawn wash. Then wash again with a milder soap before applying your polymer. Most polymers have no cleaning/polishing ability. They just seal. So you want a nice clean polished surface to start with before you seal.

What I like about Zanio, and other polymers, is the fact that you can pretty much coat every surface no matter what it's made out of with it. And it works as well or better than Rain X for glass.
 
IMHO; from my snow ski waxing experience and research I tried an approach on my boat that seems to work well: wax sticks best to wax (or in this case, polymer to polymer). If the area/surface isn't in need of having the wax or polymer stripped off, don't use dishwashing soap, as that's exactly what it does. Sure, wash it, but use a soap designed for either automobiles or boats (like OrPine, that I bought for the boat but now also use it on my vehicles). A Carnuba-based wax certainly won't hurt anything, but is yellow. Thus, using a Carnuba-based wax is going to give the boat a bit of a yellow tinge to it.
 
To clarify, I am not recommending using Dawn, or any detergent soap, as your regular wash down soap. Only use it to deep clean and de-wax the surface before you apply your sealant.
 
When Powerboat Reports was still publishing, they said anything safe for an auto finish is safe for a fiberglass boat, but not the other way around.

I bought my boat brand new. Once a year in the spring, I had the boat professionally detailed. Then the rest of the year I would just rinse it off if it was lightly dirty or if it needed more, I used Turtle Zip Wax Car Wash. I used it in a water hose adapter: wet the boat, spray it with the Zip Wash, rinse the boat. Dry it.

My boat's finish still looked almost brand new when I gave her up at the boat's tender age of 19 yrs. BTW, she was always stored in a covered slip, so sun wasn't an issue.

http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,4,8
 
Capt Bill,
If my count is correct, your recommending 4 trips around the boat to get the job done....that's why Captains need a crew :) I need a crew!

I had to look up Meguiars #56 as I've been using it for years. They claim it is a combination of polymer and carnuba wax among other things and that's why they think it's so good...but it's not just a sealant. I applied it as a pure wax on my old boat.

I hear everyone promoting automotive products as just as good but there are those that claim there is a difference and marine waxes/sealants should be used. I'd prefer to hedge on the safe side and simply use a marine based product as I always have. I looked up the Startbrite with PTFE and while this is a polymer it is also a cleaner. Zanio, never head of it, but it only shows up as an automotive product...certainly sounds like others here are using it on their boats. I haven't looked at the other ones mentioned yet.

"Covered Slip" boy, that would be nice after the Bird treatment I got last season, and will likely get this season as well. No covered slips that I know of up here in New England. I've seen quite a few in Florida, seems more popular down there...course the season never stops.
 
quote:
Originally posted by TimHenn

Capt Bill,
If my count is correct, your recommending 4 trips around the boat to get the job done....that's why Captains need a crew :) I need a crew!

I had to look up Meguiars #56 as I've been using it for years. They claim it is a combination of polymer and carnuba wax among other things and that's why they think it's so good...but it's not just a sealant. I applied it as a pure wax on my old boat.

I hear everyone promoting automotive products as just as good but there are those that claim there is a difference and marine waxes/sealants should be used. I'd prefer to hedge on the safe side and simply use a marine based product as I always have. I looked up the Startbrite with PTFE and while this is a polymer it is also a cleaner. Zanio, never head of it, but it only shows up as an automotive product...certainly sounds like others here are using it on their boats. I haven't looked at the other ones mentioned yet.

"Covered Slip" boy, that would be nice after the Bird treatment I got last season, and will likely get this season as well. No covered slips that I know of up here in New England. I've seen quite a few in Florida, seems more popular down there...course the season never stops.

Click to expand...


4 steps are only needed if the gelcoat is not brand, brand new. But the point is for the best looking, longest lasting finish, you have to do the prep just like varnish. Once you prep it and if you keep up with reapplying the sealant, you won't have to polish it out again for a long time.

Teflon in a wax is marketing snake oil.
 
Tim
If you look at all the waxes and polymer polishes on the market today, they all have one thing in common. They are all dispersions cut in a solvent blend. When the solvent evaporates you are left with either a layer of wax or polymer. The harsher the solvent blend, the better the cleaning action. A lot of the polymers do not need a harsh solvent blend for application. Therefore, they state that their product is not a cleaner. However, these solvents (in a polymer polish) will effectively clean a limited amount of contaminants from the underlying surface.

The two main differences between a wax and polymer polish is the fact that waxes are thermoplastic in nature and polymers are thermosetting. A wax is going to soften up as the temperature increases and start to pick up dirt and contaminents. The polymer will crosslink, similar to a two part adhesive, and form a hard surface which is not effected by an increase in temperature.

Back to waxes. There are some waxes which contain a high percentage of carnuba wax ( has the highest melting point of all the waxes). These have to be buffed with a rotary buffer in order to acheive a thin uniform wax coat, and a high degree of shine. Who wants to go through all the added aggravation when you can use a polymer polish? I know I sure don't.
 
even if your gel coat is new, it is still dirty. Seems nothing gets some of the black streaks etc out. I always use Maguires cleaner wax by hand in the spring to clean the gel coat and then follow with a couple coats of Pro Polish by hand. Might try Rejex this year.
 
Greg

The only problem with using a cleaner wax prior to the polymer polish is that your wax is contaminating the surface. You're polish is sticking to the wax and not the hull. You are defeating the performance properties of the polymer polish by doing this.

You would be much better off using some other type of cleaner if you're having trouble removing black streaks, etc.
 
Bob, You seem to know your stuff including the science behind it all. Which polymer based product would you recommend?

[Edit] After spending some time on the Rejex site I'm going to give this a try. This stuff looks great, I like that you can use it on a number of different materials and the site specifically addresses marine applications.

Tim
 
Tim

Good choice. I've tried just about every wax and polymer on the market and settled on Rejex. I've been using it for at least the last three years and just purchased my 2011 supply.

Bob
 
Rejex does do a light cleaning if you have some light black streaking.

Also remember that soap is soap and detergent is detergent.

Wash you boat with detergent if you want to strip off the wax.

Soap is used to clean without stripping.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top