Applying Non-Skid

C

Crossroads

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Jan 1, 2000
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2208
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308
I am in the process of re-doing my cockpit floor. Several places are getting new coring with new fiberglass on top. The entire cockpit will be sanded down when the coring job is completed. I intend to paint the cockpit floor and apply some non-skid. Any suggestions for type of paint to use and what to use for non-skid would be appreciated.
 
I used Durabak 18 to repaint our nonskid on our Monk. So far I like it- you can make it as aggressive as you want based on how many coats you put on as well. Very easy to use.
 
I've used Interlux Interdeck. Easy to use, already contains the non-skid and is holding up well on my cockpit deck after 3 years. I plan on re-doing the fore and side decks with it.
 
Cheap way to do non-skid as follows:

Tape off area that you want to have non-skid. Paint inside of the taped area with paint of choice. While that paint is still wet, sprinkle with sand. The next day after the paint has dryed, vaccum off the excess sand, and remove all the tape. Now, paint the entire deck area, including the areas with sand, using your paint of choice. A roller works best, as a brush tends to push the sand around a little bit. You can then tip off the areas without sand using a brush. You can change the aggressiveness of the final non-skid by using courser or finer sand. I learned this method in the military. Back then we used blasting sand for a very aggressive non-skid deck. Recently I did this on the deck of a small skiff I own. I used playsand for the non-skid material, and painted with an Alkyd enamel oil based paint. The playsand is not real aggressive. It is comfortable when in bare feet, but still has good non-skid properties.

YMMV
eric
 
Instead of sand buy Awlgrip Griptex or the Interlux version. The paint soaks into these products and they adhere much better to the paint.
 
+1 What Robyns Nest says. I don't mix it in. For the most uniform broadcast, I roll paint heavy about 2'x2' or 3' and spray particles dry from gun. I paper mask 18" around perimeter. I leave 3-4" wet edge out from where I spray particles and do not let roller touch particles(they will pull and leave a ridge) when I roll the next patch into it. Let first coat dry tack free and then roll another coat over it, paint only. If you have to walk on the deck to apply secont coat, tape the soles of your shoes and lift feet straight up, no twisting. At this point, grit is not completely stuck down. Second coat is required to finishing coverage and adhering particles down completely. Apply a third coat if more coverage is still needed. Griptex particles expand as they absorb the paint and are coarser than they feel out of the can. Fine is often coarse enough for most applications but if you want coarse, use it.
 
That Dubarak 18 sounds like interesting stuff but may be a little too commercial for me, not sure how you get it up you don't like the outcome. I'm hoping to use something that is a one step process so that Interdeck stuff might be the ticket for me. Can you put a coat or two of regular deck paint down then add a coat or two of Interdeck on top?
 
Durabak 18, IMO,is not commercial looking. You can also put regular topside paint over the durabak to make sure it matches everything. Here it is on our trawler:

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check out kiwigrip, easy to use (waterbased) and can be matched to any color like a latex paint.
 
Woodsong, thanks for those pics. Your deck looks great. I hope mine turns out that well.
 
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