Best way to use rotary buffer

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watson524

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
RO Number
29669
Messages
322
Hi all,

I went and got the HF Rotary 7". I've used a DA quite a bit on cars and don't think my issue is because I'm vertical on the boat vs horizontal but it seems to be jumping around a bit. I have it on the #1 setting (one above min) using Buff Magic. Any tips. It MIGHT be because I'm applying pressure I shouldn't be, though I'm really trying not to but do you have any tips?

thanks!
 
Use only half the buffer pad. Just use weight pressure dont force it down.
 
I got a 7" white wool pad at Pep Boys. I actually had a wool pad for my BD Mouse and I swear that's giving better results but it started to get dark so I had to close down shop for the nite.
 
Use a good wool pad for compounding, and I use 2 1/2 speed, not too fast, and keep the buffer moving. If it skips hold it at another angle and give that a try, very light pressure is all you need, and remember, keep it moving at all times. Also, I have found that most light oxidation will come off with 3M's finesse (The white paste) and you dont even need to use compound. Also, you can but the 3M polishing foam pads at any auto supply store like Napa Auto Parts has them for 22.00 for 2 pads, Give them a try, you will be amazed at the results. When the pad gets a buildup on them, simply wash them under a hose and put them right back on and keep going, those pads are the best I have found. The pad has a waffle look to them. Have fun!
 
I actually went to my local NAPA today but no go. They had a few off brand pads and nothing like what I was hoping to find from reading on here. So you use these 3M form pads for compounding?

I have pretty heavy oxidation (I've seen worse but...) on our 23 year old boat that I've sort of taken over from my parents and decided to clean it up a bit this year.
 
A foam pad isn't going to do much with removing oxidation. You really need a wool pad for that. White wool pads are for medium to heavy oxidation, yellow wool pads are for light oxidation and polishing and foam pads are more for light polishing and waxes/sealants.

I also have a HF polisher (love it) and I use 3 to 4 speed. I mist the pad with a couple triggers from a spray bottle filled with water, spread the Buff Magic on the surface with a foam wax applicator by hand over a 2x3 area(less product is better), place the pad on the surface and then start the polisher with light pressure. Move the polisher side to side and then up and down never stopping in one place. Let the polisher do the work and you'll notice that the Buff Magic gets worked out completely to a nice shine.

If your gel coat is too heavily oxidized then a heavier grade compound may be needed, but try the Buff Magic in a test area to see what kind of results you get first. The rule of thumb is try less aggressive measures first on a test area and only go more aggressive if you need to.

Post up some pictures of what it looks like so people here can give you an idea of what it's going to take to get the shine back.

Hope this helps.
 
It is pretty hard to get a decent picture but here's two. You can see the line of darker gray (componded) to lighter gray (not worked on).

The blue up top has come out real nice. Glossy and everything with all the chalkiness gone. Given that it's gray, I'm not honestly sure exactly how shiny it will realistically get but I'm getting happier with it.

I think I'm doing better after changing a few things. I am using less compound. I'm applying it with a foam paint brush in a VERY thin layer (might have been using too much before). I am going over it more until it's basically not really visible on the surface but for the "cloud" that I then wipe off with a dry terry cloth towel. And I've turned up the speed on the HF Rotary to 2 - 2.5. I'm also more aware of not putting pressure on it.

Don't make fun of the cruddy looking "pin" striping. I think that's next year's project. Wheel it all off and have it redone or do it myself if I can tackle it. A boat restorer told me the getting it off is the hardest part and since then I've read about the 3M wheel so I might take it off myself and have him put the new one on.

Little by little

boat2-1.jpg


boat1.jpg
 
This boat looks pretty well oxidized. When is the last time this boat was compounded? One round of compound is not going to cure years of deferred maintenance. You may have better results if you compound now, then go back over it with compound in 3 to 4 weeks before applying wax/polish.

Better yet, for a boat in this condition, I have found that Maguires Heavy Oxidation is better than anything else that I have tried.
 
Last time it was compounded.... never. I have taken it over from my mom (my dad has passed away) and am trying to get it back in shape. In 3 to 4 weeks, it'll be in the water so I'm hoping to do what I can now.
 
watson524, those pics are perfect and show exactly what kind of shape the gel coat is in. Crownline is right, you will be better off if you use the Meguiars HD Oxidation Remover or One Step Compound before going to the Buff Magic and Pro Polish. If you don't compound first then the chalkiness will come back pretty quickly. It's best to nip it in the bud now while you're at it.

http://www.boatfix.com/shop3/store/viewItem.asp?idProduct=5621

http://www.boatfix.com/shop3/store/viewItem.asp?idProduct=10136
 
Can the Oxidation Remover be applied with a white wool pad like and the HF machine like I've been using? So if I understand it, each product gets progressively less harsh if I start with the Oxidation Remover then BM then PP?

Which would be more appropriate, the OR or the OSC?

thanks!
 
Usually when the pad starts skipping it's because the pad is loaded up

are you spurring the pad when it gets bunked up?

I'm polishing now on my 48. I am using 3m supercut for the heavy oxidation followed by finesse with a yellow pad. I use at least 4 of each pad and change out when the spurring won't keep up. On heavy oxidation that can go pretty quickly. I often am ready to clean up pads for the day after only 2-3 hours. You need to put material on start on slow speed then pick up the pace usually spurring a couple times. Keep polishing until the surface is clean. On heavy oxidation I'm cutting a single area 2-3 times. I work about 2 foot square sections
 
watson24, yes you have it right. You can use the white wool pad for the oxidation remover first followed by BM with a yellow wool pad and finally put on PP by hand or foam pad. That should get your gel coat in pretty damn good shape. Either one of the compounds will work, but if I were you I'd go with the HD OR. It's more aggressive. See Ghost's post and spur the pad regularly so you don't have too much build up on the pad. You'll get better results. And remember, less is more.

Have at it and be sure to post back your results!
 
Usually when the pad starts skipping it's because the pad is loaded up

are you spurring the pad when it gets bunked up?

I'm polishing now on my 48. I am using 3m supercut for the heavy oxidation followed by finesse with a yellow pad. I use at least 4 of each pad and change out when the spurring won't keep up. On heavy oxidation that can go pretty quickly. I often am ready to clean up pads for the day after only 2-3 hours. You need to put material on start on slow speed then pick up the pace usually spurring a couple times. Keep polishing until the surface is clean. On heavy oxidation I'm cutting a single area 2-3 times. I work about 2 foot square sections
 
Tip on getting the HO onto the boat: Shake real well first. Squeeze some out in a circular pattern directly on the pad. Do not turn buffer on right away as it will spray everywhere. Press the pad against the hull in a few locations.

A few more tips: Keep shaking the bottle. Start from the back and work forward. If you can help it, do not change the pad until an entire side is done. Wipe the HO with a towel when it is dry. You may be albe to do an entire side before it it time to wipe off assuming it is not hot and sunny. Do not let it dry too much or else you are going to need a 12 pack.

You are still going to bust your butt with the first application, but it gets easier if you go over it a second time or apply wax/polish
 
Ok I'll see about getting some of that Oxidation Remover and some additional pads and go from there. Not sure if I'll be able to fit it in this week given things I have to do and the weather report in NE PA but we'll give it a shot.
 
I'm looking at some pads on lake country and was wondering if I need the wool cutting or wool polishing.

thanks!
 
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