Bilge Pump Wiring

[Doc]

I need a wiring diagram for a two switch bilge pump.

Starting at the pump is a Rule 1500 with a Rule-A-Matic Plus switch.

On the bridge there is a momentary "on" switch and a status indicator light that is supposed to be lit when the switch is held over to the "on" position to manually run the pump. Only two possible positions on this switch.

In the salon is a three position Rule switch with "on" on the left, center for auto, and "off". There is a status light here too

The problem is that someone (have not had boat very long) has has installed the three position switch upside down where "off" is momentary and "on" stays on along with the status light. The wording is not upside down.

The bridge switch to manually run the pump will not work unless the salon switch is in the "on" position and the status light is on. Remember the toggle stick is upside down where "on" can be left on. The bridge status light is also lit all the time that the salon status light is lit. The pump cannot be run manually from this salon switch.

If I put the salon switch in the middle position both the salon and bridge status lights go out and the float will not run the pump nor will the bridge switch run the pump manually.

In the bilge above the pump is a junction box where all the wires come together. My mechanic suspects that there are a couple of wires in the wrong place on the box.

Can someone draw or point me to a link on how a two switch system should be wired?

This is one of those "I would like to catch the idiot who did it moments"

Thanks

 

[BillyK]

First things first, you need to identify the wiring at the bilge pump. Most will have two wires to make the pump operate (brown) and a ground (black). If these wires are not there a new pump with float switch needs to be installed and or new wiring from the source.

You need to find out where the fuse is for the pump. The wires in the salon need to be removed from the switch. They are unnecessary. The ground should be continuous and not in the switch. The wire from the bridge needs to be isolated so when it is on the pump runs.If the pump does not run from the bridge, that is task number one.
You don't say how old your boat is. The other hot wire needs to go to the float switch so during normal operation it will go on if the water rises to activate the float switch.

The diagram is as such,
One hot to the pump directly from the bridge switch.
One hot to the float switch fused from the battery.
One ground to the pump.

Of course it's not this simple to wire a pump, these are just the basics.

Billy K.

 

[stmbtwle]

Here's a diagram that should work for you:

Tracing the existing wiring is up to you.

Yes I know it only has a 2-connection switch; I find a simple on-off switch works fine, and it's simpler and more idiot-proof. I can't tell you how to wire your switch.

Any switch (including the float) will turn on the pump and all the lights.

Float switch is "hot" all the time. To disable the float, remove the fuse.

 

[jtybt15]

The bilge pump should be 'ON' all the time, so you connect a ground directly from the battery ground(-)to the pump. Connect the Battery positive to the pump positive(+). Put in your fuse near the batt pos(+). The float connects near the pump in series along the Pos (+) wire. For a dash mounted switch, run a wire exactly as the float but running the wires to the dash switch. All switches and lights and alarms will run off each side of the wires that go to the dash switch (in parallel).

I hope this makes some sense. I've noticed my explanations have been more and more confusing...it's just that what I'm thinking and what I try to say and write don't always come out the same.[:I]

 

[stmbtwle]

Charlie is right... Regardless of how the pump is wired its supply should NOT go through your master switch, as shutting off the switch will then kill the pump (I'm sure this has sunk more than one boat). My pumps have their own switch panel, but it takes its power directly from the house battery; no switches.

 

[Doc]

Electrician came today and found that the hot and auto wires were crossed on a terminal block in the bilge just above the pump.

Now both my switches work independently..neither affect the auto function...and the indicator light in the salon is off when the pump is not running as it should be.

Joy at last for 71 bucks.

 

[spj]

Doc,

Glad your problem is fixed. I do think there is a typo in your last post. Are you missing a digit in the cost. Only $71 are you sure it is not $710. I have never heard of a boat repair that was only double digits!

 

[Doc]

71 bucks is correct. Once I explained what was going on he immediately knew what was wrong. The terminal block was not too hard to reach so he replaced the block, rewired it and was gone in 45 minutes. And the price included the new block.

Everyone I know uses this guy...some even take he and his family to dinner at the local yacht club a couple of times a year.