boat lettering
- Thread starter booboo
- Start date
Unless it's real complicated, do it yourself.
As King stated use a hairdryer and razor blade to lift the old decal off the boat and then clean the area. If the old lettering is stubbornly attached, spray with easy off oven cleaner and let it sit ofr a few minutes. Then clean the area prior to attaching the new lettering.
When attaching the new, have a spray bottle of soapy water and keep the area wet. This will allow you to slide the lettering around until you have it where you want it. Then use a small plastic scrapper, or credit card and work out all of the air bubbles starting in the center and working towards the edges. If it starts to pull at all, give it another spray from the spray bottle and it will glide again.
Stay patient, as you have a lot of time to work with it as long as you keep it wet.
As King stated use a hairdryer and razor blade to lift the old decal off the boat and then clean the area. If the old lettering is stubbornly attached, spray with easy off oven cleaner and let it sit ofr a few minutes. Then clean the area prior to attaching the new lettering.
When attaching the new, have a spray bottle of soapy water and keep the area wet. This will allow you to slide the lettering around until you have it where you want it. Then use a small plastic scrapper, or credit card and work out all of the air bubbles starting in the center and working towards the edges. If it starts to pull at all, give it another spray from the spray bottle and it will glide again.
Stay patient, as you have a lot of time to work with it as long as you keep it wet.
You do not have to soak these vinyl letters when you apply them. For the most part with boat names you should tape the name where you want it at the corners. Then tape vertically in the middle two or three pieces to hold the name in place. Remove the corner tape on one side and fold the name over itself. Pull away the backing and cut it off at the middle tape. Spray some soapy water ( or not ) and carefully bring the name into position but do not let it make contact with the boat. Hold the name with one hand and from the middle using the squeegee brush up and down until you get to the end. If you have alot of air bubbles try to pull it back and redo it, if they are little bubbles the sun will take care of them. Do the same thing on the other side and your done.
As with most projects preperation is key. If the area is smooth you will need to clean it with alcohol, and try to do it in the morning above 60 degrees out of the direct sun.
Billy K.
As with most projects preperation is key. If the area is smooth you will need to clean it with alcohol, and try to do it in the morning above 60 degrees out of the direct sun.
Billy K.
Well here she is.I had a couple issues.I was told to do the bottom layer dry and middle hinged.Not that this would have helped as it would not slide soaking wet at all.I had to place the top layer individually and perfectly.I had 5 drops of dish washing liquid in a small squirt bottle.That was twice the amount and not enough.It did however release nicely an hour later.I did not have a single pull-up.The port name I could have done blindfolded.The size makes a difference for sure.
1..How do you do a middle hinge when the letters crossover like in.This was a lot of fun.It would have been infinitely easier with a helper to cut the backing paper around the letter.You certainly need a 3rd hand if this is your case.
2.I got a small 1/2" fold in the "U" because of the above situation and a bad timed breeze.I got the cut around the letter and some slack.The "U" touch the boat.Luckily it was in its place.You can't see it unless you're up on it but still, not happy about that.
1..How do you do a middle hinge when the letters crossover like in.This was a lot of fun.It would have been infinitely easier with a helper to cut the backing paper around the letter.You certainly need a 3rd hand if this is your case.
2.I got a small 1/2" fold in the "U" because of the above situation and a bad timed breeze.I got the cut around the letter and some slack.The "U" touch the boat.Luckily it was in its place.You can't see it unless you're up on it but still, not happy about that.
When I put my name on, I saturated the area and kept keeping it wet till I was happy. I had to go around a handle and also cable access areas to put the name down. I ended up cutting several letters off teh stencil and manually moving them around. I'll take photos this weekend, but I think it looks great.
MJK
MJK
Terry,
First, the signmaker should have put registration marks on both the letters and shadow. You would have had no problem lining them up if he had done that.
Second, Since he did not give you registration marks, maybe he will do the right thing and give you another "u" and shadow. Line up the new u on top of the old u and tape the bottom. Let it fold over and remove the old u. Remove the backing and lift the new u into place. Line up the shadow and your done.
Hope this helps.
Billy K.
First, the signmaker should have put registration marks on both the letters and shadow. You would have had no problem lining them up if he had done that.
Second, Since he did not give you registration marks, maybe he will do the right thing and give you another "u" and shadow. Line up the new u on top of the old u and tape the bottom. Let it fold over and remove the old u. Remove the backing and lift the new u into place. Line up the shadow and your done.
Hope this helps.
Billy K.
He had center line and mid line marked.The problem was the overlap between the T and A.Then the wind pushed it on the boat.
By 1/2" fold I mean a half inch crease.It's flat but there is a crease.It's in the lighter blue in the U.I don't even notice it.
Even so, it will never be perfect because of the indentations left from the painted on version.It would take some extensive wet-sanding to level that area out and that's not gonna happen.
By 1/2" fold I mean a half inch crease.It's flat but there is a crease.It's in the lighter blue in the U.I don't even notice it.
Even so, it will never be perfect because of the indentations left from the painted on version.It would take some extensive wet-sanding to level that area out and that's not gonna happen.
I just went out and looked at it and it looks even better after being in the sun for a few hours.It does level out.I can see the wrinkle more now that the rest is flat...lol.
I'll ask for another U and the top section for next week.
I'll ask for another U and the top section for next week.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2005
- RO Number
- 19626
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- 1,074
We have done it ourselves two times now with great results. We used: www.myboatsign.com
Just picked up my new numbers sets today and gonna put em on tomorrow. What I found
interesting was that the originals were in two parts like yours and and had to be put on in
two applications. The place I had them done this year did them in one piece WITH the shadow and now
I only have one piece to deal with.
interesting was that the originals were in two parts like yours and and had to be put on in
two applications. The place I had them done this year did them in one piece WITH the shadow and now
I only have one piece to deal with.