Bottom paint/ stripping question...

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mariner36

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Joined
May 6, 2009
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31220
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My boat is a 36' Carver with a 12.5' beam. The boat was last painted 3 yrs ago when it was purchased.

You can tell there are many old layers of paint on the bottom of the hull.

The yard, who i usually find very fair, says i should really strip all the old paint off, and have it resurfaced with new barrier coat, bottom paint etc.

They want $5000 for the job.

Is this reasonable?
 
Seems a little high. We just did a 1998 380 Santego...stripped to bare fiberglass, barrier coated and 2 coats of ablative paint for $3500.00
 
The advice of the yard is good but, per Kenny's post, the numbers seem steep. Its a labor intensive job and not a pleasant one so give your decision a lot of consideration.
 
I had my bottom blasted about 5 years back and it was $15.00/ft. I had to go around and sand down all the areas where the blaster did not want to get too close. I did all the barrier coat work and painting myself. I don't remember how much I spent in materials, but I know I saved a ton. On the other hand, if I ever had to do it again, I would look into having someone else do the work.

I know this did not answer your question, but I wanted to give you another perspective.
 
Sounds high to me. Ask them how much if you strip the boat yourself then you can get a quote for stripping the bottom.

Similar to Craig, I had my 37' stripped via blasting and recall I paid $700 for that. I did the 2 barrier and 3 paint applications myself.

Tim
 
Thank you for the responses.

I will be having it done as I won't have the time to take on the job myself. I will speak to the yard about the price, they have been fair in the past. Thanks again.
 
Doing what Mariner36 wants is something that I also want to get done but I don't have many options locally to get it done. One thought I have had is to launch my boat at the beginning of May and sometime around the 3 week of June take it to Kenny's shop, have it pulled, do the strip, barrier coat and new bottom. People tell me I shouldn't do this because the bottom needs to be dry like it would be from sitting all winter. What do you all say? I guess the other but more expensive option is to take it to Kenny's shop in the fall and have them do it sometime over the winter but then I would have to pay storage where now at our club it's only a $100 for the winter.

Thanks
Niles
 
Maybe I need to go check receipts, but I know I paid a fraction of this on my 48. Granted, I was bringing other paying work at the time, but still. It's not quite the impossible job that it used to be with the widespread use of Fein Vacuum sanders. They are so good, you don't even tent the boat anymore. Mine was sanded and painted in two days with 1.25 guys.
 
Niles,
Yes, the bottom needs to be very dry in order to make certain that you don't trap any moisture in the bottom when you apply the barrier coat. That is why these jobs are usually done in late winter or early spring after a boat has been on the hard for a good long while.
 
quote:
Originally posted by nwaring

Doing what Mariner36 wants is something that I also want to get done but I don't have many options locally to get it done. One thought I have had is to launch my boat at the beginning of May and sometime around the 3 week of June take it to Kenny's shop, have it pulled, do the strip, barrier coat and new bottom. People tell me I shouldn't do this because the bottom needs to be dry like it would be from sitting all winter. What do you all say? I guess the other but more expensive option is to take it to Kenny's shop in the fall and have them do it sometime over the winter but then I would have to pay storage where now at our club it's only a $100 for the winter.

Thanks
Niles

Click to expand...


If you want the bottom blaster down to bare fiberglass, it is best to do it at winter lay-up. This way the hull gets to dry out over the winter and will be ready for barrier coating and paint in the spring. I have seen people speed up the drying process by running propane heaters under the boat after the blasting. I also took moisture readings during the drying out period and wrote them on the bottom to keep track.
 
Last year, as a first year boat owner, I used a dustless (it's not dustless) sander to remove the previous coat of red ablative paint as most of it was flaking off. In many instances with the sander it wasn't hard to get through all coats including the barrier. As a result, I ended up putting a new barrier coat on most of the bottom and then followed up with two coats (2 I think... don't remember) of bottom ablative. Came out very nice and uniform.

My boat is around 32' LOA and I was able to do it by myself in about 2+ days time. Having a ready supply of new sand pads was key. Bottom paint held up extremely well... and not a single barnacle to talk about.... don't ask me about my outdrives though, they're a different story.
 
I was given one for my 3607 for $6500.00 in Nov. needless to it'll be getting done after this season and I'll be doing it, blasting and painting isn't rocket engineering....
 
Started last fall at hall out, end of Sept. Bottom soda blasted. $1,000. Sits inside all winter drying. April 15th, start repairing imperfections and or blisters,then sand. Soda blasting reveals all sins. Inter protect 2000 as barrier coat. 6/7 coats. Finish with 3/4 coats of VC offshore. $4,500. Total $5,500
Boat 45' with 15 beam. Friends who had done this jobs themselves, would not do it again. Very labor intense, on your back most of the time. As the judge says, you better have 2 yoots to handle this job.

Ron
 
KiDa, to answer ypur question, I am not sure either.

Pretty much what is stated above. They strip off all he old bottom paint, remove what is left of the original barrier coat, and the gel coat bringing it back to bare fiber glass.

Then they will identify and repair any blsters or imperfections found, check and replace all thru hulls.

They will then re- gelcoat, apply barrier coat, ablative paint, and will replace the stripes along the water line removed during the original stripping.

The shop specializes in fiberglass work, and are highly regarded for that.

Each time they have done a job for me in the past, the final bill ws always l ess than the estimate. I haven't found that to be the case with the other area marinas.

I wasn' t sure if this ws overkill, so i thouht I would post the question.

Thank you for all the replies
 
In this day and age, are there better alternatives to barrier coat that if they stripped it down, you could apply yourself? Based on logistics, it seems you are in a no win situation. Personally, in your situation and what I've read above about dryness being an absolute, I'd run the season, have it pulled in the fall and stripped to bare glass and do what has to be done in the spring of '13.

My 2 cents.
 
I would doubt they are going to remove the gel coat, and if they did probably would not re-gelcoat.

They shouldnt be touching the stripes when removing the bottom paint.

I would see them checking for blisters, but not repairing them by default and unless you specify they wouldn't be replacing the thru hulls usually.

The words "Bottom Job" around here consist of:

1. Media blasting hull to remove paint and barrier coat
2. Sand smooth and or fair hull imperfections left from their destruction
3. Identify any blisters or anomolies and present quote for the proper fix
4. Repair blisters if there are any and owner approves the extra cost
5. Barrier coat (Several coats according to manufacturer)
6. Paint several coats of paint with the first coat being a contrasting color to notify when to repaint

They should be taping off the hull and covering the whole boat from the waterline striping up, the blasting shouldn't touch your original striping.
 
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