Bottom Paints - anything new under the sun?

D

DLL

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We are going to have our 44 ft Tolly hauled out, cleaned and a bottom coat put on. The last time we had a double coat of paint put on. It didn't cost that much more last time and was a different color. That makes it easier to see my mistakes :)

Any new paints, etc. come out that would be worth putting on for fresh water?

We had the zincs done, etc. Anything else you can think of? Specific paints to avoid or use?

Thanks, Dave
 
My only advice is to not put it on if you don't need it. If you only need a single coat, or none, only put that much. Over time the buildup becomes a pain. I only use sloughing paints now and wait until I get some show through before putting on new stuff. This is after a huge huge project on my 23!, to remove too many years of bottom paint. I hate to think doing this job on the 48.

bp
 
I don't remember what they put on last time Mike, I will dig out the paperwork. It was whatever our crowd here thought was best.

Due to continuing medical problems we have had the boat out twice in about 30 months. It sits in a covered slip with a swift current in the morning and a healthy tide in the afternoon.

But I know it is ready for a pressure wash. What if the paint looks fine? Ghost seems to think that if the existing paint is "OK", don't put another coat on. They took it down to bare gelcoat last time. No problems with the hull at all, no blisters, etc. If they haul it out, wash it down and the paint has no messed up places, no scrapes, etc. What would you do then? Check the zincs and put it back in the water?

I found my receipt, it just says it was painted with anti-foul paint costing $161.50 a gal. They used 2.5 gallons for two coats (different colors)on a 44' Tollycraft CPMY. I am not sure if that is REALLY thin or if they applied it really thick or is that about average? Put another way, about how much anti-foul paint does it take for a good coat?
They originally estimated as much as 5 gallons, then only used 2.5 gallons.

Do we have anyone who does this a lot? I have not been under the boat to see how the paint is doing, so I won't know until they pull it out.

Here is another question ... I don't want to be too picky, but the straps they used last time cracked the gel coat in one spot. I figured the boat was about 16-17 years old, so maybe it wasn't unusual. But the Tollycraft is supposed to have an excellent hull...should they be able to position the straps to prevent this? Or use 3 straps instead of 2?

That is several questions, I hope you have time for them......thanks....
 
We used to let the yard paint the bottom, and then a few years ago we were ahead of our annual hull-side waxing schedule and decided to just touch-up the areas that needed it ourselves. We used interlux and put it on the thinning areas, transom (because we had scrubbed it) and along the waterline. We were AMAZED at the difference in quality of the paint. I don't know what the yard was using but even off-the-shelf stuff at typical boat-stuff prices looked better and lasted longer. We used 2 quarts to do what was probably about 25% of the hull of a 40 footer. If we ever contract the yard to do the work again, we'll make sure they use quality, name-brand paint.

Our lift operator swears that cracking isn't all that unusual. I'm not so sure about that because I've looked for damage during the winter season and haven't seen much more than scrapped off paint, but I trust him. I've never seen a 3-strap lift in person. Aside from the rarity of the lift itself, I'm sure your Tolly, like 99.something% of the pleasure boats out there only have two designated lift points. I'd be concerned about someone guessing about the best position for a third strap...

They CAN pad the straps though, because boats with a reverse chine are particularly susceptible to damage from straps.
 
FTIW DLL, Using ablative paint on a 47', 15' beam semi displacement boat I used 1 1/2 gallon per coat. We always request at least 3 straps and prefer 4. 38-40K lbs.
Good luck.
Chris
 
Froggy, how do you determine where to put the third strap?
 
DLL, Two things: I believe you should be using magnesium anodes in fresh water instead of zinc.
Secondly, unless your paint is an ablative type, the paint could become ineffective if left out of the water for any length of time. What happens with the "NON" ablative types is that the copper oxidizes and as a result becomes ineffective. If you have ablative type; new copper is exposed as boat is being used. The hard epoxy types do not wear away.
 
Thanks SLW, interesting about the straps.

I just paid Les for 2 more years. I thought the website automatically emailed us when we were coming due. Sorry about that Les.

I asked the place that did mine last time..this time of the year is usually a little slower, thought I might get a bargain. Quoted around $1500 or so. I thought that sounded high until I went back a couple years, it was a hair under $1400, but that was for two coats.

All they said was Anti-Foul paint on the receipt and since the boatyard is about 70 miles
from our house, I didn't run down there everyday. They did a LOT of stuff. Vetus Bow Thruster, replaced all thru-hulls with metal, put the plate on for my HF, and a dozen other things. Oh yeah, the Flo-Scans were put on that trip...and the Interphase Probe.
We were going to do some coastal runs, then my health started getting a lot worse. Now
we have the best equipped condo on the water :)

But, back to the paint. I will ask for a specific name, see exactly what they are using.
I have read of any recent tests as to what works best in fresh water.
 
Bob J, ok, I will show my ignorance...no one that I can remember has ever mentioned using anything but zinc.

I am NOT saying you are wrong at all. In fact, I am glad you mentioned it. I will look it up...is this "new"?

EDIT: Before I forget it. One gentleman I spoke with suggested one coat of paint on the bottom and then a second coat around the water line. Anyone else do this?
 
SLW, if it shows correctly, I have the diagram from the manufacturer (Chris Craft).
Thx
Lift47-2.jpg
 
very cool! that's takes all the guesswork, and hence my concern right out of the equation.

ironic though - that looks to be a late 60's model? So it's probably thick enough to withstand being lifted on ONE strap!

DLL, are you referring to ME, or someone you actually spoke with? I apply additional coats around the waterline because I'm constantly scrubbing that area and I'll wear a single coat off before the end of the season.
 
well, when the boat gets pulled, it "could" look fine, but that doesnt mean anything if you dont know what kind of paint it is. if it is ablative, you should be ok, as ablative "looks fine" it'll still have life in it... but how much?.
if its not ablative, it could already be past the effective period. of course, recoating it is a gamble too if you dont know. a hard non ablative over an ablative is good. safe step is to go with an ablative recoat.

in regards to another coat at the waterline... YES. always do 2 coats, and then with the remaining paint coat these areas
paintgo4.jpg

do the bow up to a trailer roller or the hull block. this area can aleays use and extra coat along with the waterline areas

p.s.
sorry for the horrible sketch, pressed for time
 
Good eye SLW. It is a '69. I don't have any experience with any other big (+35') boats so I don't know the 'norm'. All the 'newer' boats I've seen have the 'sling' designation on the toe rail. I really don't pay any attention except to be sure the lift is wide enough to accomodate the flares by the waterline. Never used blocks to date. During survey, they did break some FG from using a lift that was too narrow.

Mike: not a bad sketch. Very informative. Those areas I did an extra coat of bottom paint myself.

This past summer we didn't use our boat too much and did have some slime build up. We use the Interlux Micro (somthing or other) ablative. We are a slow boat so I don't give much thought to the slime. Gives the fish something to eat.

Chris
 
DLL, I left you some info on my bottom paint experience on the SF/Sacto Delta forum. There is a way to avoid the lifting sling issue entirely. I have haul-outs done at an outfit that has a marine rail instead of a sling lift. The rail tracks run directly from the shop to under the river. The boat is simply positioned onto rolling cradles while in the water, then the blocked cradle supports the boat by the keel right up the tracks and up to the yard or shed. Out of the water, blocks or jacks are used to keep the boat from tipping and to provide chine support. The actual weight of the boat remains supported by the keel blocks on the cradle.

Marine rails work for well for most boats, but are especially good for heavy wooden boats that don't like poor support or hull squeezing.

There are other some other types of lifts that can raise a boat out of the water using a supporting cradle underneath.

I don't think the place I go to can handle much more than a 42' boat on their rail, but you never know.
 
Yzer,
the idea of a diver had not occurred to me. I don't know if he could "see" well enough
to tell what kind of condition it is in. The Mokelumne River is rolling pretty good as it
passes R dock. I have heard people say 7 knots. Even 7 mph is pretty fast. Just leaving
the slip and returning is an adventure. Remember the trawler that left during the morning flow and was pinned against the docks? Twice. They warned him, but he didn't listen.

Anyway, I will ask around about a GOOD diver. Thanks.
 
Wow, 7kts, that's ripping! I don't think diver is going to want to deal with that as the flow will likely rip his mask off. With a tether he'd be body surfing behind the boat. However, if it's tidal in that area, slack may be "doable".
 
We have a couple of hours of slack tide. Or we could move the boat to the other side of the marina. No current in there.

I will give the diver a call tomorrow. Thanks for all the help.
 
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