Buff Magic / Polish Pro help

quote:
Originally posted by margaritaville

I lied - still trying to figure out what equipment we need - went to home depot but they only have orbital sanders and angle grinders....this what we need?

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You probably need to look at a real tool store. I bot the Makita mentioned above locally at Berlands House of Tools. HD, Lowes, Sears, etc. all had nada. You may also look online. Nice machine, with the bonnets and bag makes it perfect. Good luck.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest

Good news Leigh.

My shrink wrap is coming off the big boat this week, haven't been able to get on the boat anyway, been very busy with pressing family matters.

I've used BM on my non skid which is awlgripped, it does clean it, I don't put the polish on it, I use Woody Wax once it's all clean.

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Great.. That is what I was planning on.. BM to clean then woody's to protect..
 
Did the topsides with Buff Magic last weekend -- wow! Will finish with 3m Wax this time since I still have a bottle.
 
Reading all the post and viewing the video on shipshape tv i tried out buff Magic today. last year i followed the four step process list here on my heavy oxided 1990 sea ray. I had great results. This year instead of the 3m compound i tried Buff magic. after five minutes i went back to the boat store to go back to compound. the buff magic did not compair. I follow the directions. spead it on wait one minute put the buffer on the correct rpm's. However the polish worked great. to me it seems buff magic is for a new boat.

How do you get that buff magic off your wool pad. It does not clean up with water like the compound. it's oily and will not wash off
 
Try washing your pad in lukewarm water and Dawn dish detergent, that should clean it up.
 
I didn't clean the pads at all and I think I read that somewhere. It took so little buff Magic to do the job that the pad never loaded up. Just talked to my brother who I talked into Buff Magic. He said his 95 Carver never looked so good. He thanks you too Johnathan! Question, If you got all the oxidation off your boat last year, why do you need to do it again so soon?????
 
quote:
Originally posted by Gregory Saracco

, If you got all the oxidation off your boat last year, why do you need to do it again so soon?????

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Not all of it. I did not want to over do it. In hind site i should of removed all of it last year. I am not bashing the stuff just thought the compound removed the heavy stuff better. Now that i have it back to the way it was i will maintane it with the Buff Magic. Gel coat is just that a coat and i do not want to polish it all off.
 
It's certainly not as aggressive as lots of compounds. I think you did the right thing.
 
Well, i'm kind of a day late and a dollar short. Should have been staying tuned in to this thread. I've already started the spring cleaning ritual as well.
Now my question is simply. I've already done the the sides with a general purpose cleaner/wax to get the the basic top layer off. With that done, would going over it again with Pro Polish improve things or make them worse? For sections not done yet, would you do the Buff Magic followed by the Pro Polish?
Thanks,
Jack
 
If you have no oxidation then I would not use the Buff Mgic.
 
I'm sold on the buff magic....used it this weekend and was very impressed with the shine, 2 thumbs up. The pro polish on the other hand....sucked. It was nearly impossible to remove and when it did come off the hull, the hull didnt shine nearly as much as it did right after the buff magic. I followed the insrtuctions from Yacht Brites web site, removing it when 'slightly tacky'. When that produced lousy results, I tried letting it dry thoroughly....still came out like crap and was a huge job to get off. I'll use the buff magic again, but the pro polish goes straight in the dumpster.
 
Terry, you may have been using "too much" pro polish. It should be applied as a very thin coat. Also, was there a lot of humidity or moisture in the air? This will make it tougher to remove. Not sure what you mean by the finish being tacky, it should haze over. If there is so much on that it is tacky then you definitely have applied too much. Don't be so hasty to throw it away.
 
I haven't bought the buff magic or pro polish yet so I don't know what the lable recommends, however, have you experienced users applied more than one coat of pro polish or is one enough? What speed to you run your polisher on for both the buff magic and pro polish? I have a Milwaukee polisher that has rpm settings of 1 to 5 and an rpm range up to 2700.
 
I tried the Pro Polish on the sides, where I had already applied a cleaner/wax. It did bring out some additional shine. I used a machine to buff after applying by hand. Used 2 pads, one to get the initial application, and a second to do a final buffing.

Now, I'm going to try the buff magic on the upper part where i have more oxidation. I'm anxious to compare the 2 results....

Jack
 
I was not a believer until it happened to me, but some cleaners and waxes do not work on some boats. I always had excellent results with Collinite cleaner and wax on my Wellcrafts and Maxum, but when I tried it on my new 1997 Carver I ran into all kinds of problems. A boatyard person detailing boats was kind enough to come over and take a look. He explained to me that he had seen the same thing happen with other cleaners and waxes. He turned me onto BM and four season tree wax. For my Carver, those two work the best. When I run out of the wax, I am going to try the Pro Polish just to see what happens.
 
Jack,

Try using the machine to apply the Pro Polish, I think it will bring out more shine than by hand. I then do a final coat of Pro Polish by hand.
 
I had just the opposite results with Pro Polish---extremely easy to apply and take off after it was completely dry. Sorry it didn't work for you. It was soooooo easy that I almost felt like I wasn't doing enough for my gelcoat!
 
I wish I could explain it. My makita polisher (with a very soft wool pad) wouldnt take the wax off. I had to remove it by hand with very hard pressure. I don't believe I put it on to thick....but I suppose it's possible. The only thing I can suggest is it was only about 13C (55F).....perhaps to cool fro the pro polish, but I dont think so. I'm not sure I want to try it again on the flybrige, but perhaps I should give it one more shot....for the sake of experimenting.
 
Even though Robyns Nest suggested applying pro polish with a machine, hand application and machine buffing also was quite easy for me as well. Letting it dry seemed easier than trying to buff when damp. I experienced both. If it was damp, it stuck to the buffing wheel and the machine just spread it around more. Letting it dry to a film, it definitely came off much nicer.

The saga continues when I head down to the boat for more 'wax on wax off' fun.

Has anyone applied Buff Magic with a machine or is that better with hand application?

Jack
 
Buff Magic works 1000% better when used with a rotary buffer.

It does work by hand but the results are not the same and you will work hard at it.
 
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