Colored hull waxing.

Resurrecting this thread as it is nearing the end of the season and again my colored hull is looking chalking.
Did anyone try anything new this year that works?

I still think I want to try the buff magic and pro polish path. I just don't think the carnuba wax lasts on a dark colored hull and need something that won't wear off mid season!
 
Who you use? What was cost? So wet sanded and then what? Wax? Type?
 
I had it done at a local marina. The guy owns a body shop so sorry, I can't be more help then to say that I had the white chalk and it did not come out via detailing and has held up through year one. I'll check and see what I paid but it certainly was not outrageous.
 
Have you considered Wenol odor Flitz to get to open the "pores" first?
 
Never heard of it but seems similiar to buff magic/pro polish.
I am looking for someone with a dark colored gelcoat hull who has had success with a product.

Hank, after you wet sanded, what did they do? Wax? Brand?
 
They waxed. I really never asked what type of wax but the fix came from the wet sanding. This was the only fix that would take off the chalky coating. I really don't think the wax is critical as long as it is quality stuff. This year when I wax I will go back to "Mothers". It has always done a great job for me. I use the cleaner wax followed by the pure wax.
 
I always use Buff Magic. Great stuff. Had a black hull for 7 years and it was just aggressive enough to get the job done. Works great on my white hull now. Have to follow the directions and spur or change pads frequently. Also followed up with pro polish which also did a good job. Believe it or not I switched to nu finish and find the shine to last longer than pro polish. 2 coats a few days apart. Have a bucket of buff magic if you want to try it on your boat in the fall upon haul out, let me know
Al
 
quote:
Originally posted by ALKA2710

I always use Buff Magic. Great stuff. Had a black hull for 7 years and it was just aggressive enough to get the job done. Works great on my white hull now. Have to follow the directions and spur or change pads frequently. Also followed up with pro polish which also did a good job. Believe it or not I switched to nu finish and find the shine to last longer than pro polish. 2 coats a few days apart. Have a bucket of buff magic if you want to try it on your boat in the fall upon haul out, let me know
Al

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Was your hull chalky or typical seasonal wear? I haven't heard of a product that takes care of a chalky coating. The products I tried would reduce a bit and put a shine over the chalky surface but did not do the removal job. For me, the only remedy was a wet sanding.
 
Not so much chalky and I am not an expert but an aggressive compound should remove chalky gel coat. It depends on the compound and pads used. Wool pads have to be used and constantly changed or spured to keep the nap up. Again I am not an expert and am sure others in the know will chime in.

Al
 
IMO it is a loosing battle because the color is fading all through not just the surface. Anything that restores the wet look looks good for a short while but quickly becomes blotchy. Boats should have a non photo chemically reactive finish but they don't. They have soft thin gel coat.
Consider how much you will spend on 5 years of fruitless polishing and compare to a paint job. I wish I had.
 
I believe my wet sanding was a couple grand. The estimate to paint my boat was over 20 grand. Since it is only the first year, I can't comment on how long it will hold up other then to say year one is fine.
 
I think my hull even though my boat came from fresh water took alot of abuse.
It came from lake Norman, very high mineral content.
In fact my flexiteek was almost white and there was a red mud clay line around my boat.
I cleaned and sanded this.
Last year I had to rebuild the raw water side of both motors due to clogging from the high minerals.
Based on this, I imagine with the hot sun in North Carolina and the mineral content, the hull needs some work. The white part above the rub rail is fine and shines good, its just the colored part that seems to get white and blotchy.

I am going to give the wet sand a try. I assume it also removes fine scratches which I have a few as well. Just need to find the right person to do the job! I am not going to paint. I agree a good paint job looks good, but 1 scratch and it looks like crap. I prefer gelcoat.
 
I am not going to wet sand I think. I think that is too aggresive at this point. I am thinking my issue could be the Salt Away. So I know Salt Away says it won't harm wax but maybe that is just sales talk. I use Salt Away after every run. I stopped using it on the strata glass because on my old boat I thought it killed it when it got very cloudy one day. Now I am wondering if it also is bad for the wax or maybe the combinaiton of the type of wax my detailer uses and the saltaway product.

Either way, I am going to try buff magic and pro-polish next year and then I will stop using salt Away as well!
 
My buddy just bought a 58 Sea Ray with a blue hull. It's in good shape but we "waxed" a few sections a couple months ago to see what would hold up and look best so he knew what to use this winter. We used Sea-Shield Exhaust Guard after polishing in one spot and Carpro's Cquartz and reload on another part.

Both seem to have held up really well. My experience with both products, as I used both this year too, is that Exhaust Guard works best at the waterline or anywhere near diesel soot. It' just wipes off with boat soap and water, until the wax is gone. That's the problem, it doesn't last the whole season, maybe 4 months and it's the waterline that goes so it's hard to reapply in the water.

The CQuartz is awesome stuff. I did my superstructure with it this year. They say to apply reload or Hydro2 every 2-3 months. I use the Hydro2. After washing, while still wet, I spray the hydro2 on an area, then rinse with the pressure washer. It takes an additional 15 minutes to do the boat. I did it twice this summer and it makes so much difference in the state of the boat and eases washing an unbelievable amount. black streaks wipe off with my dry finger in most cases. In bad spots (my transom under the canvas) I have to use a cloth with some soap and water! I used to have to use cleaner wax there every week.

I'm going to try CQaurtz on the whole hull with Exhaust guard on top around the waterline and see if that works too.
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