Compounding / Waxing / Polishing with Imron Paint

BoatCrazy

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Can anyone suggest the best way to shine Imron? I have a red stripe (roughly 6inches, that runs all the way around the boat and its badly faded and does not look good.

The white I am not worried about getting to shine, its the colored section Im worried about.

Thanks in advance.
 
Start with as fine a compound as you can. And buff it out. You might have to go through two or three stages. Try using only foam pads.

Red is one of the hardest colors to bring back sometimes. So you may have to just repaint it.
 
If the shine does not come back, and you want it re-painted take it to Raybo Marine in Lindenhurst. They did my old boat in red Imron and it looks great! No more buffing of that colored gelcoat. Imron is tougher than automotive paints but you still have to be careful because its no where as thick as gelcoat.
 
What have you tried so far? Be careful with a compound, as you are removing the paint as you go. Try the least abrasive polish you can find first.

Whenever you see older Formulas they always look great until you see where some dickhead detailer (or owner) used a buffing wheel and removed the imron paint, usually on a hard edge. Looks terrible and not so easy to fix.
 
Are you sure that imron can be compounded without ruining the gloss.

IMO you are unlikely to bring it back because the paint has faded and is too thin to uncover unfaded paint.
 
quote:

Originally posted by pdecat

Are you sure that imron can be compounded without ruining the gloss.

IMO you are unlikely to bring it back because the paint has faded and is too thin to uncover unfaded paint.






At one time or another I think I've compounded out every brand of paint that "you can't compound". :-)

But you may be right that it's to far gone to polish out. Only way to tell it to try it on an area or two.
 
I've wet sanded, compounded and polished Awlgrip back to perfect mirror finish. This was a brush paint job I did and got dust in the paint. Came back like it was sprayed.
 
Let Rob at Raybo look at it first, if you can get it over there, not too far from Freeport...
 
Thanks for all the info guys.

My last resort is going to be having it painted. Im not expecting to get it a mirror shine, but as long as it doesnt look dull and pasty...

Lou, Im scared to ask what he charged you to paint yours? Its OK if you dont want to share. This is a 6 inch stripe all the way around the boat, not sure its worth painting...
 
He painted the whole boat from just above the rubrail, to the water line. About $4K but made it a new boat. I had done the deck, and interior about 5 years before that (paint job was 2 years ago). The old red gel faded to pink and no amount of buffing would bring it back. Couldn't stand looking at it anymore. Still running the original engine and drive lol. To do a stripe, should be much much less, because its not the whole boat and the prep must be a lot less.

There are do it yourself friendly paints that you can use now, that might make it a reasonable project (just doing a stripe). I don't know if they have the durability of Imron (Imron it not for do it yourself use) but that might be an option if you feel up to doing it yourself (roll and tip). There was no way I was trying to paint a whole boat in my driveway lol.
 
I had very good results using 3M Finesse-it II glaze on my Hatteras' black Imron stripes as well as the off-white hull. Then applied Rejex. As you can see, not a small project, but an easy one. Looks good!

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Lou, thanks for the info. Spoke to Raybo, they said roughly $1800.

Cat, how bad was that faded though?
 
$1800 sounds way too high for a 6 inch stripe on a 24' boat. I had a 4 inch boot stripe painted on my 34 C with Awlgrip this year for about $1000. That included masking both sides of the hull, primer and three coats of Awlgrip sprayed on. Looks awsome.
 
The stripe on the Formula might be a bit more complex design than a boot stripe. There is nothing wrong with trying to bring it back yourself, just be careful.
 
Did you ever think to try Vaseline on it? It does a great job of absorbing into the surface, cleaning, & restoring color, & shine. It is very durable, and can be waxed or polished over when fully absorbed, & dry! although this is not necessary. Try a small spot on maybe another stripe on the boat. I get the boat warm , like in the sun, then rub it in by hand liberally to get the feel of it, then wait till it looks totally dry, then rub off the excess with a paper towel, or rag, along with the dirt, & grime it removes. Then re-apply if necessary, until you get the final results you want. One thing though, it has silicones in it (like some car polishes) and will absorb into the surface, if you need to use anything else over it, you must remove the silicone first, I'm not sure of how to do this, because it worked so well for me, I never had to.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BoatCrazy

Lou, thanks for the info. Spoke to Raybo, they said roughly $1800.

Cat, how bad was that faded though?






Bad enough on the black in particular that I wanted to do something about it. I don't know what your gauge of "bad" is. Imron should require very little if any maintenance. If you need something stronger than Finesse-it it is probably time to repaint.

MikDee, this is not gelcoat.
 
The Vaseline restores, & preserves boat upholstery, tape stripes, and paint stripes as well. I happened to put it on my 3 str Yamaha Jetski's purple seat, and it held up like new till I sold it 2yrs later. It amazed me.
 
You think $1800 is too high? The stripe is exactly like the Cats Hatteras. Just under the rubrail and goes all the way around the boat. They would have to deal with a swim platform and two port holes. Ive never had a boat painted (only the bottom), so I know nothing. Although, Ive had my car repainted and I know car body shops charge an arm and a leg, so I figured a marine body shop would be quite pricey.

Vaseline works well on upholstery huh? How long does it take to soak in, and to get rid of that oily residue...?
 
quote:

Originally posted by BoatCrazy

Vaseline works well on upholstery huh? How long does it take to soak in, and to get rid of that oily residue...?






I never timed it, but usually in warm weather, if you rub it in liberally, by the time you finish all your upholstery, and go back to wipe off the excess, along with the dirt, & grime, it is usually dry. To be sure how long, you'd have to try it for yourself.

Also, it cleans penetrates, and restores aluminum,(which gets porous) like in windshield frames. It will clean, & brighten all cleats, & metal on the boat too, but I don't know how or why? I can't believe it absorbs into chrome, or nickle plated brass fittings, but it works?
 
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