Cutles bearing
- Thread starter ga48
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2612
- Messages
- 856
No. Can't imagine why it would be necessary unless strut was damaged.
"Just wondering if anyone has heard of taking the strut off the boat to change the bearing?"
I have done a couple of dozen cutlass bearings on my own boat and friends boats over the years. On a couple of them it was easier to reach and drop the 4 bolts holding the strut and pull the strut/cutlass off allowing us to press the old one out and new one in in my friends heated work shop area with a nice press available. Just need to make sure you support the remaining shaft well until you have the strut back in place. Those were 2" or greater as the smaller ones are usually easier to work with.
No dollars involved just selecting the best way to do the job at the time when its on our dime so to speak.
I have done a couple of dozen cutlass bearings on my own boat and friends boats over the years. On a couple of them it was easier to reach and drop the 4 bolts holding the strut and pull the strut/cutlass off allowing us to press the old one out and new one in in my friends heated work shop area with a nice press available. Just need to make sure you support the remaining shaft well until you have the strut back in place. Those were 2" or greater as the smaller ones are usually easier to work with.
No dollars involved just selecting the best way to do the job at the time when its on our dime so to speak.
When I replaced mine I removed it. That was only because I took it to the prop shop to be tested to ensure it was not bent. They blasted it clean and I never regretted that. But also in my boat's case it was a matter of four bolts with very easy access.
"But also in my boat's case it was a matter of four bolts with very easy access."
+ 1 Stephen - same here , only took about 3 minutes with an electric drill and deep socket and then drifted the bolts out. After that we are back in a heated workshop with a nice press and an easy job standing up.
It all depends upon the boat and sometimes the weather.
+ 1 Stephen - same here , only took about 3 minutes with an electric drill and deep socket and then drifted the bolts out. After that we are back in a heated workshop with a nice press and an easy job standing up.
It all depends upon the boat and sometimes the weather.
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2000
- RO Number
- 36
- Messages
- 6,657
As long as the alignment is completely checked it's ok if that works for you. But if the alignment is good pulling the strut can lead to other issues.
You know, like there is always one bolt that refuses to cooperate and it is the last one so you are committed to mangling it?
You know, like there is always one bolt that refuses to cooperate and it is the last one so you are committed to mangling it?
Yep, the bolts were sure stubborn, and if I remember were the wrong type. Of course I happened to be alone and they just spun. I strapped vice grips on the top side of the bolts so they wouldn't spin. If I remember, I ended up finding the proper carriage bolts at a restaraunt supply hardware store in Vineland. I think I was referred to the place by GVP. For those who knew George, he could find ANYTHING or tell you where to find it.
"As long as the alignment is completely checked it's ok if that works for you"
Regarding alignment - on one 37 Sea Ray we were working on we could not get the alignment in specs easy - V drive and all that. Dropped the strut and shimmed it a few times temporarily tightening it down to see what we needed in thickness to get good alignment. When we were happy with the results we set the strut in permanent with sealant and it worked great - cannot take credit for the idea as it was on Tony Athens site at sbmar(dot)com. Had to do the cutlass and prop anyway as that was part of the problem to begin with.
FWIW - the problems I have seen with strut bolts are most often crevice corrosion. I have not had one spin on me but I did have one break off - a good thing we replaced thopse bolts in that case.
Regarding alignment - on one 37 Sea Ray we were working on we could not get the alignment in specs easy - V drive and all that. Dropped the strut and shimmed it a few times temporarily tightening it down to see what we needed in thickness to get good alignment. When we were happy with the results we set the strut in permanent with sealant and it worked great - cannot take credit for the idea as it was on Tony Athens site at sbmar(dot)com. Had to do the cutlass and prop anyway as that was part of the problem to begin with.
FWIW - the problems I have seen with strut bolts are most often crevice corrosion. I have not had one spin on me but I did have one break off - a good thing we replaced thopse bolts in that case.
it has changed, think IPS and surface drives. based on the efficiency I doubt we will see many more planning hulls in the 10-30 ton range without them. outboard and I/O now pretty much own the under 10 ton planning hull design market.