Does 2nd coat of cleaner wax make sense

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ddurand

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I am using Starbrite cleaner/wax with PTFE (Teflon) and the container says to apply a 2nd coat. One might think the 2nd coat might remove the first coat since its cleaner wax.

Starbrite seems to be expensive (almost $18) compared to others. Maybe I just bought it at an expensive store?
 
Maybe I should use Meguiars Flagship Marine Wax rather that the cleaner/wax.
 
The majority of waxes or cleaner/waxes use a solvent blend as the application vehicle. Once the solvents evaporate, you're left with a thin wax coating.

A second wax application is going to insure complete wax coverage. The second coat will dissolve some of or all of the first coat.

Bob
 
So is it worth the hassle for a second coat. How much can one really miss?
 
I remember reading (Post by Greg), that second coat of wax, takes off the first. Hopefully Greg will see this post and chime in.

Walter
 
I just put a second coat on mine yesterday. I would agree that it took some or all of the first coat off. I would still put the second coat on since I did notice some spots took more than others the second time around. I guess I either missed some or the boat just got really thirsty in places.
 
The sticky by Mike Ryan says they do not recommend a 2nd coat and prefer wax more often. However once the boat is in the water, its not easy to wax the hull.
 
I learned about the 2nd coat removing the first from someone on this site who seemed to know all there was to know about waxes and polymers. He hasn't steered me wrong yet. If you are missing spots with the first coat, then you need that second coat. I don't think I miss any spots when I wax! I do put 2 coats of Pro Polish on. I wait at least 24 hrs between coats so that the first coat has bonded completely. I think if I were marketing these products, I'd suggest always applying a second coat. Sell more product that way!
 
If you're using a cleaner wax, the second coat will give you a deeper cleaning and shine.

I prefer the polymer polishes.

Bob
 
I have used the Starbrite with Teflon with great results, one coat seems to last all year for the most part.

I always suffered from the scum mustache above the bottom paint, so last year I put a second coat of wax from the bottom paint to about one foot above (that is all I had time to do). The second coat did something because the water beaded differently on that section than it did on the rest of the boat, but I still got the scum line and had to use Salicylic Acid to remove it.

BTW, Teflon is a polymer
 
quote:
Originally posted by Crownline 242

BTW, Teflon is a polymer

Click to expand...


But it is suspended in the wax and does not bond to the hull like Rejex or Pro-polish.
 
quote:
Originally posted by rommer

But it is suspended


Click to expand...

I guess you are technically right. I suppose that the Teflon is essentially a suspension, but I suspect that it is the same with Rejex and PP. On the other hand, what does "bonding" mean. Once you have cross-linked polyester or polyether resin (hardened gel coat), that is it. All the free hydroxyl groups are have been broken, the molecule has reacted with the molecule next to it, and there is nothing left over to bond (form a chemical reaction with) to. That is the case at least until the the hardened molecule starts breaking down due to oxidation.

I used to be a Chemist in a polyester resin plant and in some of my tests I actually had to make hardened resin, so I understand a little bit of what is going on. But I never could quite understand what these manufacturers mean when they say that the polymer wax is "bonded" to the Gel Coat. I guess we need a Surface Chemist to tell us exactly what is going on.
 
Crownline

When the manufacturers refer to the product bonding to the surface they simply mean that it is going to crosslink and form a microscopic barrier. Successive coats will allow you to build up an additional layer, achieving greater depth of shine and better protection from the elements.

Think of the polymer as being thermoset and a wax as being thermoplastic in nature. All of the polymer coatings (Rejex, Pro Polish, Zaino, Aurora Boat Shine, etc.) have similar properties and characteristics in that they are going to afford better protection than wax. Plus, they will not soften, like all waxes do, as the temperature increases and attract dirt.

They are all trying to sell their products and are looking for ways to differentiate their products from the competition.

Bob
 
That's the way I understand polymer coatings Bob. I quit using wax for the properties you mention-softening with heat and attracting dirt. Here's one more, they cause the gel coat to "yellow" over time.
 
One fall before winterizing I put on a thick coat of paste wax and didn't buff it off for protection.The following spring the wax was hard as stone and I couldn't get it off.Someone on this site suggested a second coat to soften it and it worked great.The old hard coat came off by hand.I think this proves that a second coat softens or removes the first (I think the wax was Mary Kate).
 
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