Drill Hole Through SS

ken emigh

Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2007
RO Number
25623
Messages
154
Need to drill a hole through a SS mounting plate and shoe. Local machine shops want $100.00.
Item to be drilled is a SS StCroix motor mount model #185.
Suggestions please, and thank you.
 
Pay the machine shop.

I assume the mounting plate is pretty thick -- over 1/2 inch? And you need a good hole? You'll need a solid setup and some good drill bits to get it done yourself. Good luck.
 
Cobalt tip bitt, center punch where you want the opening, lots of lube, use a smaller bitt to drill a pilot hole if you are drilling a large diameter opening and work you way up. Good luck.
 
I bought a set of bits with a center point some time ago. If you do a center punch and use the right bit you should have no problems. I had no problem drilling a 3/8 thick stainless bow roller for three 5/16 holes. No oil needed and everthing went very easy using a rechargable drill but at low speed. If you try to drill with a higher speed drill it may not work.
 
There is another thread recently on drilling stainless. See if you can find it, there was a lot of good info. The net of it is that if you have a sharp bit, good lubrication you will keep the heat down and successfully drill the hole. As soon as that bit dulls, you will heat up the work and if you get too hot, it will work harden. Once that happens, your basically in deep doo doo. You will be lucky to get the hole drilled at all and if you do get it drilled, it will cost you MANY expensive drill bits to do so.

The machine shop will have this drilled in moments. You will wonder why you pay so much. You are not paying the shop for their labor, you are paying for their knowlege. But, if you screw up and heat harden the stainless you will personally be at it for hours and hours and may not make it through at all and will easily be most of the way to that hundred bucks just in cobalt drill bits or titanim nitride.

Typically, you drill the first hole, no problem. You wonder what all the fuss is about. The second hole goes smoothly until the end when you don't break through when you think you should. You either get through, or about half way there suddenly your hole starts smoking the lube and you realize you are in trouble. If you put a new sharp bit on after it cools, you will usually get through, though just barely. If you start the third hole with your 2nd bit which is now seriously dull, you likely will never get that third hole drilled. Ever.

I've drilled many many holes in SS. I learned the hard way. Sharp bit. Lots of lubrication. Go slow. Walk away for an hour at the first signs of heat. Come back with a new or sharp bit. Be patient.
 
Thanks to all. Followed the advice of L.Keith and IanBuilder. Was able to accomplish what I wanted to do.
Again Thank You.
 
--> Ghost

Are there issues if you choose to use a continuous flood of water while drilling?
 
Never tried that. Though if you look in a tool catalog, you will see options for my drill press that adds a continual flood of cutting oil, not water. I'll take that as a hint. :)
 
Water provides no lubrication.
No lubrication leads to heat which then leads to the Material you are trying to drill workhardening. When it work hardens you will have more difficulty than before because the material "case hardened" on you. Which will dull drill quicker, which leads to more heat. It is a no win loop for the amature, especially if they don't understand what is going on. Drill bits go flying............

As a few have said before, SLOW drill speeds with HIGH drill pressure with Lubrication and coolant.

There are multiple levels of Good, better and best in this equation. Experience, BE and Google will help steepen the learning curve
 
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