Engine quit running, no spark.-------Resolved!

G

Gregory S

Well-known member
Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2000
RO Number
2620
Messages
5,967
My 1994 Crusader XL, carved, electronic ignition. Quit running while warming up. Started fine, quit in about 5 minutes. Fuel entering carb, no spark. Plenty of battery as cranks fine. Where to start? StNdard engine running well.
 
No safety lanyard, inboards. Thanks, thought the coil may be the starting place. Just quit, no stumble. Like the ignition was turned off.
 
do you have a fuse on the purplw wire under the dash or an ign fuse in the fuse panel
Do you have voltage on the output terminal of the alt
 
quote:
Originally posted by alien1952

do you have a fuse on the purple wire under the dash or an ign fuse in the fuse panel
Do you have voltage on the output terminal of the alt

Click to expand...
 
No fuse on the purple ignition wire or in the fuse panel. Don't know if voltage at output terminal of alternator. Not at the boat now.
 
If your equipped with the 90A link at the starter
when that goes all power goes with it. If you have voltage at the alt output the 90A is good, if not the 90A link is bad.
 
With the ignition in the run position, should there be power at those areas? Don't need to be cranking?
 
Long away and far ago had a similar occurrence in an auto. It was the coil. Good luck Dr.
 
Hope it's that simple. Can't call a boat mechanic until Tues.
 
If you suspect Coil, you could swap it with the other twin... There's not much tech in switching coils.
 
I'm not mechanic enough to suspect any part in the electronic ignition.
 
Copy That, Doctor! That said, seems to me you have good ideas how lots of things work.
 
With the key on power should be at the coil. If you have one of those mufti pin connections open and clean that for lack of anything ele to check. they are notorious for causing problems if not kept clean.
 
Multi-pin connection? Do you mean the one that connects the wires to the engine harness?
 
If you have good voltage to the coil, you could check the primary and secondary coil circuit resistance .
Plus confirm the coil to dist cap cable is secure & look at the inside of the distributor cap and make sure the rotor contact button is in place and cap is in good condition.

You said fuel is entering the carb - did you mean you can see the squirt down the throat? Did it smell with strong gassy odor like good fresh gas?
Just to clarify, -How did you confirm no spark?
 
Sandy, I can see fuel squirt down the throat. Smells normal. To check for spark, I removed a plug wire, put a screw driver in the wire cap, held it against the manifold while someone turned the key and cranked her over.
 
Bruce, have a suspicion the answer might be there. About 7 years ago, that engine did the same thing. Mechanic found the purple ignition wire in the loom to that connected. Was bad. He ran a new wire from the ignition switch and spliced in to the purple ignition wire just before the male side of the multi-pin connector. Had been fine ever since. I'm hesitant to open up the loom to find that connection. Will let the mechanic do it if he feels that's the problem.
 
Found a post from Steve Jackson back in July of 2010. Similar problem on same engine. Pick up coil was testing good however when he pulled the distributor, he found that the pick up coil was loose inside the reluctor housing and flopping around. Replaced it and finally solved his problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top