Exhaust Replacement Time - 20 Seasons, 2,600 hours

Michael Clemensen

Michael Clemensen

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Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2000
RO Number
2006
Messages
359
After reading the Rusty Plug saga and other savvy boaters replies I've decided to replace the exhaust manifolds and risers prior to the start of "No Roses" 21st Boating Season. I've already determined that all three batteries need replacement. So while there out the access to the manifolds will be less restrictive. I went with OEM Volvo Penta 5.8FSi manifolds as I already had purchased the unique port and stbd risers years ago. Hopefully the removal and replacement will be painless with little blood letting.
 
Start by spraying PB Blaster or whatever rust remover you like. Give it a few shots and let it sit a day or two.

Make sure you have good tools. Do not cheap ass tools, you will strip the bolts and then you have more troubles.

Wear gloves to prevent the good old skinned knuckles too.

Good luck.
 
I like impact for fasteners that have put roots down. Using a half inch impact wrench set LOW is one way. I was one of the few to get all eight out of a rusted mess on an old 460. The 9/16 bolt heads were wasted away so I hammered a 13mm socket onto each. They all came out easily, so I think I accidentally learned that it can help to beat on the bolt heads.
That was the second side I did. The other side, I sprayed penetrant every couple days for a week then went at them carefully with a 3/8 breaker bar. They all finally let go, but really not as easily as the ones I beat on.
Finally, on many projects, I've noticed the lubricant/penetrant often doesn't soak down into the actual threads. And sometimes not past the shank of the bolt.
 
When using PB Blaster or equivalent, do it over several days and if you are in the position of running the engine, do it as the vibration will help the PB soak further into the threads. If you can't run the engine, find some kind of electric tool that vibrates a lot while running and hold it up against the bolts. Even tapping the bolts with a hammer will help.
 
quote:
Originally posted by cwms

When using PB Blaster or equivalent, do it over several days and if you are in the position of running the engine, do it as the vibration will help the PB soak further into the threads. If you can't run the engine, find some kind of electric tool that vibrates a lot while running and hold it up against the bolts. Even tapping the bolts with a hammer will help.

Click to expand...


+1
 
20 years??? I don't know what to say. As everyone suggests, go at it slowly and deliberately. What do the bolts/heads look like, How easily do the plugs come out?

As far as hitting the bolts, you're trying to release pressure on the threads. It will also help getting penetrant a little deeper. Use a BIG center punch to drive the force down thru the center of the bolt. Then get a 1/4" punch for a couple heavy hits.

Don't forget to drain the water. Any disassembly is also and inspection process. You don't want water contaminating the inspection.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, still a little too cold to start on the project, also awaiting the arrival of the two manifolds. There is NO water in the system, drained then blown with shop-vac during winterization, OCT 2015. Spark Plugs were removed in 2014 and all the exhaust bolt heads and nuts are rust free. May have to remove the bulkhead just forward of the transom to ease in the process.
 
Indeed pounding on bolts may release them. Always use a six point socket to avoid rounding.
 
Well the project is delayed till after winterization this fall. Bulkhead removal is not an issue, This 5.8FSi Ford Volvo Penta uses 5 LONG studs on each side. The power plant is sitting down in its location and the main deck height looks to be just slightly above where the manifolds need to come out and clear the studs before they go vertical and off. Not going to attempt it with the stern drive attached. This Fall when I pull the I/O then I'll attempt the manifolds in case I have to jack/lift the power plant up to clear the deck.
Additionally the new OEM manifolds are different than the '96 OEM manifolds. They're really rebadged BARR manifolds that aren't identical to the '96 version. Didn't want to run into a train wreck this Spring.
As a side note if I knew VP was purchasing the BARR Manifold and rebadging it VP I would have purchased the BARR manifold from another source to save many $$$$'s
On the lighter side two new 27M flooded marine deep cycle batteries were purchased and installed, the 3rd battery, a marine 1000 MCA was tested, cleaned and reinstalled. The date on the deep cycle's were 2006 not bad for 10 years. The still in place starting battery has a 2003 date code. I can't say enough for my Charles Industries Marine UL approved 20 amp triple charger!
On a third note I installed new plugs, even year, and my little round plug gap setting tool is WAY OFF! Plugs need to be set at .044, when using the round unit I checked it, this year, with a feeler gauge, WAY OFF! Need to set the round gauge to .039 to get .044 on the feeler gauge. I've been setting my plug gaps TOO wide for 20 years! Not this year. The 8 plugs that I pulled were oil covered from the winterization elixir looked great except they gapped .049 with the feeler gauge.
Here's to a Great 2016 Boating Season including a trip up to Voyager's National Park!
 
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