GelCoat Scratches

CurrentSea

CurrentSea

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I have a scrape about 8 inches long and 1/4 inch wide. Not deep. My dock neighbor or someone using his slip hit me I think, becuase it's nothing I did.

Anyway, anyone ever try any scratch removers?
There is a product called QUIXX that gets very good reviews. Anyone ever try this?

Thanks.
 
If it is 1/4" deep, then you are through the gelcoat & no scratch remover will work.
Al
 
No, it's barely a 1/8 deep.
I have a colored gelcoat and I still see color.
I know it could be wet sanded out but I am so afraid to sand the hull!
 
got a buffer? Even if you don't, you may be able to polish it out by hand, but a buffer would be easier. Try a light sanding with 1000 gt. wet sand paper (with water), then buff with cleaner/wax. If that doesn't work go to a boat rubbing compound, then a polish or cleaner/wax.
If you can see color it should be easy.
Buzz
 
Thanks. I am really nervous about using anything, but my fiberglass guy is all backed up and may not get to it.
So just light sanding with 1000 grit? What brings back the solid shine? I sanded my old boat once and you could always see the sand mark which looked worse than the scratch!

Anyone have a procedure to follow to get scratches out? It's not deep and mostly surface scratch.
 
IMHO, I have a blue hull so I have done this before.

Start with 600, then 1000 then 1500.
Buff out the 1500 with a rotary Buffer and a good quality compound, something oil based and one that breaks down to a finer grit.

If need be use a second pass with a finer compound then wax.

I'd stop in a an auto body shop, tell then what you are doing and ask to by a 'scoop' or two of what they have on hand.
Bring along a couple or three containers.

Good compind is expensive and you won't need much.
 
the 3 grits of wet/dry is a good process, but I've taken out scratches with just compound and then wax--it all depends on the scratch.
Just go slow and sand lightly.
Buzz
 
What is a good brand of compound to use?
Do I need to sand at all, the compound may be enough it sounds like?
 
If you can 'hook' a fi8ngernail in the scratch you'll need paper.

I either use 3m or presto-cut compounds, 3m is my favorite.
A bottle could cost you 50 bucks.
That's why I said stop in at an auto body shop, tell them what you are doing and what grits of paper you are working out.

There ARE NO SHORT CUTS take your time.
 
quote:
Originally posted by CurrentSea

No, it's barely a 1/8 deep.
Click to expand...

An 1/8" (0.125") is fairly deep. I thought gelcoat was under 0.030".
It might be best to just wait and have your fiberglass man do the repair; or at least talk to him as to what can be done to make it less noticeable till he can get there.

Edit: missing word
 
yeah, 1/8 is really deep. I'm not sure I would recommend sanding out anything that deep.

You might want to have this one filled, or re-assess just how deep it is.
 
Dave,

I will be at the Anchorage removing my shrink wrap sat. I'm blocked behind D dock, facing the bay.

You can borrow my polisher. I have a professional grade Milwaukee with variable speed. My suggestion is to start with compound before you sand. You won't compound out 1/8 inch, but you may be satisfied with the results. Also, you can pick up a small tin of compound at most auto stores. I would recommend two compounds, one for cutting, the other for polishing.

I can show you how to use the machine.

Rob
 
quote:
Originally posted by mandm1200

Originally posted by CurrentSea

It might be best to just wait and have your fiberglass man do the repair; or at least talk to him as to what can be done to make it less noticeable till he can get there.
Click to expand...


That would be my recommendation. You don't want to make it worse with a hacked DIY repair attempt.
Click to expand...
 
It's not 1/8 deep.
I should of taken a pic.
It is all surface and 1 scratch is like the tip of your fingernail.
So you can put a fingernail in it but its not deep.
So I think they will compound out.
I just need to make sure I use the right compound.
I have some at home I used once and I could always see a dull mark where I rubbed.
 
CurrentSea,

As I said earlier compounds have different 'grits'.
What you have at home may be a coarse compound.

That's fine, but you will have to came back with something finer.

We have told you to use 1000 wet/dry sand paper.
So what you need next is something to remove the 1000 grit.
Then you remove that 'layer', then perhaps one more step to bring out the shine.

And as I told you some professional compounds start out 'rough' and break down to something finer.

It is not a 1 step nor is it quick.

Trust me I have the glossiest Blue Hull in our marina.
It takes a lot of work.
 
I would start with the least aggressive method. You can always work your way up from there.
Get hold of a rotary buffer and wool pad and try to polish it out first.
I wouldn't waste my time with a random orbital and foam pads on a boat. I have a PC 7424, and a Flex 3401 that do great things on my cars, but they don't seem to be able to do any correction beyond some light polishing on the boats.
If that doesn't work, then move to a compound and a more aggressive wool pad.
If you borrow a machine from someone, they will probably have more than one type wool pad they use with their machine and will show you which one is for compound and which is for polish. There is a difference.
If that doesn't work, then you can move up to the wet sanding. You could pass by a body shop and tell them what you are looking to do and that you are a little nervous about it. Then ask them for a couple of scraps of some 1200 or so grit that they've already used a little bit, but that still has some life to it.
After you wet sand it you can compound, then polish as I described before. That should get rid of any trace of marring that you put on the finish with the wet sanding.
It might not come out perfect, but I'll bet it winds up looking a lot better than it does now.
You shouldn't worry too much about using a rotary on your boat. Unlike your car where a novice can do real damage to the finish on a car, the Gel Coat is pretty tough and hard to mess up if you take your time with it.
 
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