Help diagnosing bildge pump problem?

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Prospective

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I have a pretty typical bildge pump set-up. A 2000ghp rule pump (this is one of two) connected to a float switch and a switch at helm. Pump comes on when I either lift float switch OR turn switch on at helm which also lights up.

This pump is no longer fuctioning. If I lift the float switch it does NOT turn on. If I use the switch at the helm it also does NOT turn on and no light comes on at helm switch.

Question.. What is the easiest way to diagnose what the problem is... ie..pump, float switch, helm switch, power, etc??? I have not really begun to poke around other than determining the above. Just want to go about it in some logical manor.
 
Check the fuse or breaker that supplies power to the float and the helm switch first.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robyns Nest

Check the fuse or breaker that supplies power to the float and the helm switch first.

Click to expand...


+1.

If the fuse/breaker is OK. Check the dash switch for corrosion and the connections themselves for corrosion.

I was reading a boating tip in (I forget which) magazine that recommended coating the connections in vaseline prior to heat shrinking them for added moisture resistance.
 
Check the breaker or fuse but if neither the manual or float switch work then chances are the problem is the pump or the connections near the pump. Choeck fir voltage with a meter at the pump

Often power comes thru 2 diffrent sources, one for the float one for manual unless you have a manual off auto switch at the helm
 
I found both fuses blown on my boat, one for the switch and one for the float switch, replaced them and at the time the pump worked fine, was doing some other work later and flipped the float switch and the pump ran but was squealing, I replaced it, sounds like you need to do the same.
 
pump and float switches are cheap. I would replace both. Fuses don't just blow without a reason.
 
As your question exhibits your lack of electrical knowledge your easiest fix is to get a friend who understands basic electricity and get him to fix the problem. Maybe cost a few beers. If you replace the wrong thing it may cost you a lot of money. Save a few bucks and ask a friend for help.
 
As pumps start to burn out the often draw more power to work. If you fuses are blown then the pump is probably going bad simply replace it and test the float switch to make sure it is working well and not hanging up in either the on or off position. Pumps are critical to your boats safety don't take chances with just changing fuses and thinking it works for a second or two because with you need it most it won't be there for you.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Peleka7

As your question exhibits your lack of electrical knowledge your easiest fix is to get a friend who understands basic electricity and get him to fix the problem. Maybe cost a few beers. If you replace the wrong thing it may cost you a lot of money. Save a few bucks and ask a friend for help.

Click to expand...


Thanks for the vote of confidence. I guess any question on this board on any topic could meet the same reply. "Since you're asking, you obviously don't know so go find someone who does".

That's why I'm on this board. To get pointed in the right direction...
 
Spent some quality time with the wiring of my bildge pump. Pretty sure it's a wiring issue of some kind (lose, etc.) because the pump is now working. I tried to trace the wires but my boat is older and lots of things have been rewired. Additionally a lot of the wiring is enclosed in black plastic corragated covers and are liberally wire tied. So tracing is a bitch. I could even find the fuse block or breaker they're connected to. So... I may just have to rewire the whole thing unless I can trace it out when I have more time.
 
You might want to try calling Tiara. They could probably tell you what route the wiring took. As I recall, they have been helpful to other owners in the past. Good luck.
 
It never hurts to contact Tiara. Their support for me has gone beyond good to the point of borderline ridiculous. Though you have a 21 year old boat, at least they'll be able to tell you how that was originally wired and original location of breaker or fuse.

At least based on how cleanly everything is wired and labeled on my boat, I have to imagine that you should be able to track it down, though I agree that the sheer amount of that conduit can be overwhelming at first sight.

I'm a bit surprised if your 3600 has only two pumps, you may have a third pump in the cabin area (this is how my 2900 is set up, the third pump is one of those that turns on automatically every so often and doesn't have any switch or indicator at the helm).
 
quote:
Originally posted by Ernesto

I...you may have a third pump in the cabin area (this is how my 2900 is set up, the third pump is one of those that turns on automatically every so often and doesn't have any switch or indicator at the helm).

Click to expand...


E,

Are you sure that's not your AC condensate/shower sump? If it turns on every so often under the cabin, I for one would be looking for a leak.
 
No, the sump box and pump are right next to it, and operated by the float switch as is normal. This is a small bilge pump (a lot smaller than the two main ones) with no float switch, that cycles on for a second every few minutes, and turns itself back off if there's no water. I'm not looking for a leak because that area of the bilge has always been dry, so that this little pump has never had to pump anything out.
 
Thanks guys. I may try giving Tiara an email. They have been helpful in the past. But the problem is my boat was repowered to diesel in 1995 and extensive rewiring was done so I dont think any of the old diagrams apply. This is the aft pump and the wiring diappears into a chase next to the fuel tanks. It then re-emerges with a TON of other wire that is all wire tied. So figuring out which is which is a real pain.

Ernesto, I have 4 pumps. Two are mid-boat between the engines. One of these is an auto that comes on every two minutes. The other is mounted higher and is on a float switch. I then have the same set-up aft where the steering gear is. One is a 500gph auto and the other is a 2000gph on a float switch w/ helm switch. This is the one causing the problem. Oddly there is no access to the bildge forward of the companionway down into the cabin.
 
Wow, I like that pump setup!
 
I like that setup too, mine is similar.

I rather doubt that the problem is in the chase anywhere, but in a connection somewhere you can probably get at it. If you have power leaving the switch then there's a possibility the issue is the ground, as there's only one ground but two sources of power.

I've had problems with improperly-crimped connectors, the connection looks good and the screw is tight but the crimp isn't tight on the wire. Only way I know to test is to jiggle and pull on every suspect connector.

Could also be in the connections at the pump, particularly if they're in a location where they can get wet.

At least you test your pumps from time to time, rather than waiting till the boat is sinking to find out they don't work!
 
get a 12v test light or a meter and test where pump is before you think abt a rewire. the pump or float could be bad and either is easier than pullin new wire.
 
Older boat, intermittant electrical issue. I say you've got some corrosion on a contact somewhere. I'd go to the fuse block and just start cleaning contacts.
 
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