I've spent considerable time removing all the old boat brand decals with a heat gun and want to apply new ones I purchased. What is the correct way to apply these. They are a vinyl stick on type that you remove a backing and then apply the decal. I've heard using a soap solution or windex works. How do the pros do it?
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How to apply decals?
- Thread starter BillV
- Start date
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- Jun 4, 2001
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Yep, soapy water from a spray bottle works fine. You need to use something to squeegee the air bubbles out. Credit card can work for that if you don't have something better.
Jonathan
Jonathan
I'm going through the same situation as you. When I've applied smaller decals/stripes in the past, I've used a soapy water solution (4-6 drops of dawn dish soap in a quart bottle of water). Don't use windex. The ammonia can effect the adhesive.
My current striping job consists of appling a 4" stripe down both sides of a 27' boat. I bought a special solution from an auto parts supply house made specifically for applying decals. Also, it's possible that your stripe supplier has this same type solution.
My current striping job consists of appling a 4" stripe down both sides of a 27' boat. I bought a special solution from an auto parts supply house made specifically for applying decals. Also, it's possible that your stripe supplier has this same type solution.
Make sure your hull is nice and clean and polished before you start. Windex without amonia works very well and saves you the hassel of looking for a spray bottle. Just soak the area and then install the decal. When it's where you want it, blot the area with a clean towell and squeegee out the bubbles. Let is sit in the sun for a day and it will be tough to remove without a heat gun.
marykhubby
Member
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- Mar 16, 2007
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Squeegee using a rubber edge to avoid damaging your new decals.
An expert taught me this way, and it works every time without soap or wetting.
Place decal in position, and take 1 inch masking tape, and make a hinge across the top. you can use two or three pieces of tape, to make sure it does not move. cut between the letters with a knife or scissors, and make each piece individual ones. It is less frustrating working with a bunch of small pieces, instead of one large one. Peel off backing, and squeegee into place from top to bottom, eliminating any air pockets or bubbles. once all is completed, use a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat to seal edges. If any bubbles are present, use a pin to prick the center, and squeegee out the air.
Place decal in position, and take 1 inch masking tape, and make a hinge across the top. you can use two or three pieces of tape, to make sure it does not move. cut between the letters with a knife or scissors, and make each piece individual ones. It is less frustrating working with a bunch of small pieces, instead of one large one. Peel off backing, and squeegee into place from top to bottom, eliminating any air pockets or bubbles. once all is completed, use a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat to seal edges. If any bubbles are present, use a pin to prick the center, and squeegee out the air.
My word! That really sounds labor intensive. Most of the people I've watched do this just float it on and they are done with it. My first new boat was a 1979 Sea Ray. SR used plain Windex on the assembly line to stripe their boats in those days. I've put lots of stripes on, and this approach makes the procedure very easy to do with professional results and not much time invested.
ok, I need you guys to back up a bit. I have a 10-character, die-cut decal of our home port in my car. I thought I could just peel away the backing, apply it to the boat and pull off the front...
I guess I under-estimated the job. What's the spraying/windex thing about??
I guess I under-estimated the job. What's the spraying/windex thing about??
The approach Gary suggested above with masking tape works well for that type of decal. Especially when you want to keep the alignment.
Its not nearly as complex as it sounds having to type out the instructions. I've used both approaches and usually prefer the soapy water. Your situation is the exception though. Aligning the decal with a dry fit and taping it in place works great. If you are concerned about poking out the bubbles, use the soapy water after setting the masking tape in place. This still allows you to "squeegee" out the bubbles.
By the way, a silicone kitchen spatula makes a excellent mini-squeegee, just wash it up good for the admiral!
Its not nearly as complex as it sounds having to type out the instructions. I've used both approaches and usually prefer the soapy water. Your situation is the exception though. Aligning the decal with a dry fit and taping it in place works great. If you are concerned about poking out the bubbles, use the soapy water after setting the masking tape in place. This still allows you to "squeegee" out the bubbles.
By the way, a silicone kitchen spatula makes a excellent mini-squeegee, just wash it up good for the admiral!
SLW, with the type of decal you're talking about, I'd definately apply the soapy water first. Chances of you sticking the first part exactly where you want it the first time is slim to none! With the soap, the decal won't stick imediately and you can adjust it some. Also.nearly impossible to squeegee out the air bublles if you're working with a dry surfac. There will be air bubbles that need to be worked out. They won't come out if it's dry. Soap the transom down well, take the backing off the decal and apply it. Don't take the front carrier off until it's dry. Squegee with the carrier in place to protect the graphics. When you pull the carrier off, pull it slowly back on itself (parallel to the surface you're working on). If you pull at 90 degrees, you could pull the graphic away. I've watched several professionals apply graphics, and they use soapy water.