In Water Detailing Recommendations Needed....

David M

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I had Saint Max detailed on the hard in late 2009 figuring a quick touch up in the spring. Of course, we had the worst winter on record in the last 30 years here in Central VA. So....I am back at square one. I would prefer to use money for fuel as opposed to paying for a short haul to detail her on shore.

I Googled "Detailing a Boat in the Water" and got 13+ Million hits. I figured some of the folks on BE could lend some experiences and tips.

All suggestions welcome.

TIA
 
David,

The majority of the boats at my marina stay in the water year 'round (including mine). I wax below the rub rail when I do annual haul outs. Other than that, I do all the work with her in the water. Some of the bigger boats hire detailers to do it, and they'll take work rafts around the boat to do below the rub rail if needed. Depending on the crew hired, I've seen some very good work. For me, if I have a tough spot, I'll either turn the boat around so my finger pier is on the other side, or better yet, we'll do an overnight at a marina with floating piers. That way I can get to both sides and have great access.
 
We do it with a kayak or the dinghy.

I usually gat some help from a young, strapping guy.

Then I can do what I want and share the beer...

RWS
 
Just what type pf detailing is it that you want to do?

Are you concerned about something below the rub rail? Just because you had a hard winter does not mean that you have anymore concerns than a normal winter.

George
 
She's just filthy with a lot of black streaks and leaf stains.

Blizzards, horizontal rain, shore debris on the deck and hull.... yuck!

I saw one fellow on line who does buffing with pneumatic tools. I'm not that insane!
 
hey Chop you have floating docks don't you ? If you do I'd go to the t-head and do one side at a time, Tie some line to your buffer so it can't hit the water and have at it, Can't be any worse than laying on a camel and trying to weld on a Tin-Can. :)
 
quote:

Originally posted by talexander38

hey Chop you have floating docks don't you ? If you do I'd go to the t-head and do one side at a time, Tie some line to your buffer so it can't hit the water and have at it, Can't be any worse than laying on a camel and trying to weld on a Tin-Can. :)






ROFLMAO. That brings back some very vivid memories. Most HTs I've come across in life are are a one off brood of humanity!!! :D

I'll try the T head. If the financial situation was different I would hire several scantily clad humans of the female persuasion to do it for me while I consumed copious amounts of adult beverage.
 
Use a plug in style GFCI to the buffer. I used a special shore power cord that was modified with a 3 prong outlet at the boat end, plugged the GFCI into it, and when the buffer got accidentally dragged into the water, it clicked off. Same as when the buffer cord drops into the water and you turn on power---it just clicks off. I used this method for ten years buffing boats in the water.
Just make sure every step you take is deliberate and keep a handhold in reach if you're walking around the cabin or anywhere narrow or slippery.
Always wait until morning dampness moisture is dried before starting.

For the hull, below the rub rail:
Since boat sides don't oxidize like topsides, a cleaner wax is all you should need.
Start with a washdown with a boat soap or hull cleaner. When it's dry, (assuming you have access to both hull sides, and the bow area, even if you have to turn it around after doing one side), get a simple kitchen mop called a Quickie, with a sponge surface. The type that has a handle on the shaft that you can squeeze water out works best.
Using just a bit of water to moisten the sponge (you don't want it wet, just moist), spread some Meguiar's Fiberglass Cleaner Wax on it and rub vigorously on the hull sides, doing 3-4 passes up and down, next pass is one sponge width next to the first.
Repeat.
You can do the entire hull down to the waterline without breaking a sweat.
Don't touch the bottom paint with it!
The little red scrubber pad on the other end of the sponge works well on stubborn black marks, etc.
When it's dry, the hardest part is removing the wax, but since it's a cleaner wax it should be pretty easy.
Whatever you do, do not use the same brand of cleaner wax that is made for cars or you'll be fighting to remove the wax until August.
That I'm sure of.
I used a gadget I found at HD made for cleaning windows to remove wax in bow areas that were out of reach. It had a T shaped plastic shaft at the end (on an extender pole)and came with a sleeve that slipped over it that looked like a fluffy wash mitt. It removes a decent amount of wax before you need the remove it and shake it clean. You can also blue tape a small towel over it or make something similar with an automotive car window cleaner/squeegee like gas stations have (or used to!).
Buzz
 
Cleaner wax won't come close to shining below my rub rail right now. I'm just finishing up above the rub rail and will be starting the hull later this week. Two-three hours a day is about all I'll do on cut/polish. It's a tough job. I plan to use my dingy to get down by the water line.

I like the idea of a plug in GFCI. I will need to go find one.
 
You can make your own extension cord GFCI very easily. Just buy the parts at the local Home Depot type store. Plug, cord of desired length, GFCI and a box. I did it years ago and use it all the time.
 
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