mahogany

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BoatCrazy

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I just picked up some great accent pieces of mahogany. They are in good shape, but needed a light sanding to clean up some scuffs / scratches.

So far I sanded it with 220 grit paper, and got rid of all the dust... Is there anything else I need to do before I poly them?
 
Are these mahogany pieces bare wood or finished?

Your choices for bright finishes are varnish, synthetic clear coat or oil finish. Epoxy alone offers no UV protection. You can also paint. Which finish do you plan to use? My experience is with marine varnish and paint on mahogany (Honduras or African) or meranti (Philippine mahogany varieties). All of these mahogany types are coated using the same methods.

Interior or exterior? If exterior use is planned, how much cover does the boat get from the elements?
 
Marine varnish.....and don't forget to lightly sand between first and second coats. You can also use brass wool for this.

Lady C
 
Right now they are finished, well they were finished, till I lightly sanded them down..

Its going to be exterior pieces. The boat DOES NOT have a cover so they will be exposed to water and sun..
 
220 grit is correct for sanding between varnish coats. I like plain old aluminum oxide sandpaper. Brass or bronze wool must be used with some caution or it may leave a green stain behind.

I'd go for minimum of 10 sanded coats of a premium quality marine varnish containing UV inhibitors. The top brands have the best UV packages. I use Flagship, other top brands are just as good.

UV from sunlight is going to beat up marine varnish. Use a minimum of two coats of varnish as maintenance varnish coats. When do you do maintenance coats? No later than when the varnish begins to lose it's gloss. I re-coat every one to two years but the boat is kept in a covered slip. You will have to re-coat marine varnish at least once a year and probably more often without any cover from the elements.

UV from sunlight is the worst enemy of varnish.
 
I dont mind redoing the wood if I have to. Its relaxing and kills time.

Thanks for the awesome advice, its greatly appreciated!
 
What Yzer said. I use Epifanes varnish on my Classic - most expensive...but. Flagship good too. More coats the better. Use mineral spirits on cheeze cloth in between coats to remove sanding debris. Keep working area as dust free as possible. Lots of opinion on brushes and technique. Ox Hair brush seems recommended, depending on the application. Keep brush in MS in between.
 
With regards to the Brush. Does the mineral spirits need to dry before using it on the next coat?

What does it mean when the finish has that orange peel wrinkle? Varnish applied too thick or other??

How do you get the little bumps and speckles out? I have been block sanding in between coats. I have heard that you need to filter the varnish on each coat?

Too many question? Is there a good book that explains this process for a DIY er ??
 
There are several books on refinishing available. Just Google them.

The brush does not have to be fully dry before you can use it again.

Orange peel usually means your last coat was to thick and/or the surface was to hot.

Even when you filter your varnish it's almost impossible to keep all the specks out unless you are varnishing in a filtered paint booth. You can buff them out later after the varnish cures. But remember, your last coat is never your last coat. So unless you are going to enter the boat in a concours contest, I wouldn't worry about it. But it certainly doesn't hurt to filter your varnish.
 
With regards to the Brush. Does the mineral spirits need to dry before using it on the next coat? Use 100% mineral spirits to clean brushes completely after each use (Ace Hardware). It takes several passes with clean MS to to the job. Use the recommended expensive brushing thinner for thinning only and to give the brush a final working prior to varnishing. The brush should be slightly dampened with brushing thinner (not MS alone) prior to use. Shake off onto paper towel and work the bristles to dry them.

What does it mean when the finish has that orange peel wrinkle? Varnish applied too thick or other?? Crinkling means too thick. Orange peal often means too much brushing or thickened varnish. Varnish surface gets uneven as you build coats. I give the varnish a more vigorous sanding every four coats to flatten the surface.

How do you get the little bumps and speckles out? I have been block sanding in between coats. I have heard that you need to filter the varnish on each coat? Use tack cloth to clean the surface not more than a few minutes prior to varnishing. Work the brush thoroughly to remove any debris after cleaning with MS and work it again with brushing thinner (see above) just prior to use. Pour off varnish into a 7 ounce or 1 quart epoxy mixing container prior to varnishing. This is easier to handle than a varnish can. The varnish can should be opened only long enough to pour, then close it tightly. Dipping brushes into the opened varnish can itself leads to contamination and thickening/spoiling of the varnish. A 1 qt. mixing jar is also ideal for brush cleaning. Clean these containers with paper towel dampened with brushing thinner (not MS) just before you pour the varnish in. Varnish can be filtered to remove bits of dried varnish or clumps of solidified varnish that develop in previously opened cans. Varnish filtered in this way must be brought back to proper viscosity with brushing thinner. Good varnishing practices eliminate the need for any filtering unless you are using an old, previously opened, partially cured can.
 
Also, don't varnish while wearing the same clothes that you sanded with.
Al
 
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