Swim platform on my Tiara has 9 teak inserts, after I clean and brighten them they look great, I then oiled them and came back couple days later and they look old, weathered and terrible. I have reapeted the process but got same reults. Any ideas?
Need Help With Troubled Teak
- Thread starter RM
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Have you ever looked into Sikkens Cetol?
It's a teak sealer, maybe something you might want.
It's a teak sealer, maybe something you might want.
Capt. Bill1
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Stop using teak oil. Waste of time and money IMHO.
Either just keep it bare and clean or use Cetol as RN suggested.
Either just keep it bare and clean or use Cetol as RN suggested.
Sorry to disagree with all of you, but I like the look of oiled teak!
It will take several coats of oil, before it last. I am on the third year of oiling my teak swim platform, and it is the first year it looked pretty good, when I opened it up this spring.
The last two years, it took several coats of oil to get to where I am now. I would say three or four coats close together, then about once every 6-8 weeks.
Once you get it there, it does look good. The other thing, is it only takes me about 10 minutes to oil the entire platform. I keep the oil and brush in the dock box, I use the same brush and do not clean it between coats, I just put it in a plastic bag.
Over all I think it is less work then Cetol. Cetol is a lot of work in a couple of days. Oil is a little work spread out over a lot of time.
It will take several coats of oil, before it last. I am on the third year of oiling my teak swim platform, and it is the first year it looked pretty good, when I opened it up this spring.
The last two years, it took several coats of oil to get to where I am now. I would say three or four coats close together, then about once every 6-8 weeks.
Once you get it there, it does look good. The other thing, is it only takes me about 10 minutes to oil the entire platform. I keep the oil and brush in the dock box, I use the same brush and do not clean it between coats, I just put it in a plastic bag.
Over all I think it is less work then Cetol. Cetol is a lot of work in a couple of days. Oil is a little work spread out over a lot of time.
Capt. Bill1
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LOL
Shinny teak is slick. Is slick what you want on a swim platform? When it turns gray the grain is opening up allowing your feet to get a grip!
That is why they cover decks with teak. The natural oils will allow the wood to withstand rot Shine them up with a finish and you are defeating the original purpose. Learn to like Gray.
That is why they cover decks with teak. The natural oils will allow the wood to withstand rot Shine them up with a finish and you are defeating the original purpose. Learn to like Gray.
I have a Tiara with the teak strips on the swim platform also. Having owned it for 11 years I have tried a few different things. I started with the Sikkens Cetol light, it eventually peeled and water got under it / turned gray. I re-striped it then did the Sikkens Cetol with coats of clear over it. It lasted longer but was very slick.
I now use Semco Teak Sealer. It has a couple of translucent colors and goes on like a stain. I put on three coats the first year and just touch it up with one coat the next year. I no longer have to strip, clean and bleach the teak and start over every year.
I now use Semco Teak Sealer. It has a couple of translucent colors and goes on like a stain. I put on three coats the first year and just touch it up with one coat the next year. I no longer have to strip, clean and bleach the teak and start over every year.
I used a lot of teak oil on my anchor platform last year. Looked good as long as I kept it oiled, but developed a verrrry bad case of black mildew during the wet winter. I still don't have all the streaks out. This summer it will either be plain bare or Semco sealer. Presently undecided.
A friend of mine has my old 1980 34 Mainship. That boat is covered in teak. Every year I do his teak at no charge and I love it. Its relaxing. It can get frustrating but if you use the correct tools, let them do all the labor. I cant remember the name of it, but there is a 2 step process out there for cleaning an "A" and a "B" then I use teak oil, once again I cant remember the name but its got GOLD in the name. I know im a wealth of information. I have the stuff in my garage, but after a long day at work im surprised I can remember where I live.
A lot of people are scared off by teak work and the up keep..Someone people also love it
A lot of people are scared off by teak work and the up keep..Someone people also love it
Could it be TeKa? I used it, and it was great.
Just have a hose nearby to thoroughly rinse the area before and after you apply it so that it doesn't stain the Gel Coat around it.
I finished up with Sikkens Natural Teak. Now I just lightly sand it to scuff it up a bit, and re-apply the Sikkens.
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Purists will hate...I took off all the teak prior to last year and striped it (whatever was on it) then sanded every piece. I then used Armada Wood Finish, Original Gloss. I put on 4 coats with steel wool in-between each coat. I think it came out really good. It maintained the gloss all summer. This spring I probably didn’t have to do anything but I did a quick steel wool and put on 1 coat.
Niles
Niles
Capt. Bill1
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Once a year is about as often as you should use two part teak cleaners. They are very hard on the teak.
You can save money by mixing your own two part clear/bleaching solution.
Here's the formula:
Part 1 or A
To a 3-5 gallon bucket of water add 1 cup TSP powder and 1 cup ammonia, mix well.
Use as you would the commercial part 1 or A.
Keep wet and do not rinse off after scrubbing.
Part 2 or B
To a 3-5 gallon bucket of water add 2-3 cups muratic acid. Apply as you would the commercial part 1 or B.
As you genitally scrub the part 2 around be sure you get it into all the areas covered with the part 1 so it can react with the part 1 and cause the teak to go blond. Keep all surfaces wet while doing this. Try to keep it off of anodized aluminum and painted surfaces that are not painted with a 2 part ploy paint just as you should with the commercial 2 part products. And rinse everything very well after all the teak goes blond.
Eye, hand and feet protection should be worn just as with the commercial products.
You can make the 2 parts as strong as you like. And the cost is 10% or less than the cost of the commercial products.
As a routine cleaner I found powdered Tide with bleach to be great and cheap. I've used Spic and Span in the pasted. But the guy who installed our teak decks turned me on to Tide and we love it.