pre-wax prep

Cobalt 25

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I'm about to wax the boat for the winter. Since it's covered 90% of the time, I can usually get away with waxing only once a year.

In getting the surface clean, I usually just spray a bit of Windex before wiping it down with a paper towel. Then I apply the wax.

I'm wondering if the small amount of Windex that I use is O.K. or should I be using something else? Once the wax is on I am satisfied with the results.

Peter
 
I'm not sure about Windex. Before waxing, I pour a gallon of vinegar into a bucket and add a little soap. Wash everything. Rinse Well. Dry. Wax on. Wax off. Sit back and enjoy a beer.

After you wax you need to be careful of what you use so you dont remove the wax.
 
I would never use ammonia on a boat, why?

If you want to strip the old wax off the boat, mix up Dawn and water in a bucket, wash the boat, the detergent will strip whatever wax is on the boat.

Wax to your hearts content after that.
 
It sounds like you are trying to remove the old wax the easiest way you can:
Go buy the cheapest bottle of isopropyl (rubbing type) alcohol that you can find. Usually it's the chain drugstore brands that are the lowest priced. Then go to your favorite home store and buy an empty spray bottle. Make up a mixture of 50% isoprpyl alcohol and 50% water and put it in the spray bottle. This inexpensive mixture will get the job done quickly and easily and not harm the finish.
The truth is though that if you only wax once a year there is probably no wax left on the surface anyway.
Another solution would be to go to a "Cleaner Wax". Those products usually have a solvent content that cleans the surface as it puts a protective coat on it.
All of the above are quick and easy shortcuts and if you are satisfied with the results then thats fine.
But the proper way to take care of the surface is in three steps:
Clean - deep clean old product (compund?), oxidation, stains, etc. with the least aggressive product that will get the job done.
Polish - the surface with an even less aggressive product than what you used to clean with. This step will bring up the shine.
Protect - This is where you put a protective barrier, either wax or sealant, over that nicely cleaned and polished surface.
Meguire's makes a pretty decent three step package for boats. I can't remember the name of the kit off hand, but it comes in blue plastic bottles.
 
Thanks for all the informative posts. I learned from each of you, and plan to use a combination of the suggestions.

Peter
 
"Another solution would be to go to a "Cleaner Wax". Those products usually have a solvent content that cleans the surface as it puts a protective coat on it."

Cleaner waxes tend to have a light compound in them. And should only be used if your finish is a bit chalky.

Quite frankly, if you're happy with the results you're getting the way you have been doing it, I'd stick with it.

Heck, if you want to kill two birds with one wiping, try Gel Gloss spray cleaner wax.
 
I am reasonably happy with the way it looks, but I'm always open to learning something new and doing it better. I never really could figure out how a product could remove some of a surface and put a protective coating on it at the same time. It seems counterintuitive. I don't mind doing two separate steps.

My 2001 Formula has over 1,000 hours on it. Every year someone asks me if the boat is new. This year an assistant harbormaster (a guy who sees a lot of boats) asked me the same question.

Peter
 
quote:

Originally posted by Cobalt 25

... I never really could figure out how a product could remove some of a surface and put a protective coating on it at the same time. It seems counterintuitive....

Peter






+1
 
I'd use a true fiberglass cleaner and then wax, instead of cleaner/wax.
Try Collinite (Fleetwax) cleaner. Then put on your favorite wax. I like Fleetwax.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Cobalt 25

I am reasonably happy with the way it looks, but I'm always open to learning something new and doing it better. I never really could figure out how a product could remove some of a surface and put a protective coating on it at the same time. It seems counterintuitive. I don't mind doing two separate steps.

My 2001 Formula has over 1,000 hours on it. Every year someone asks me if the boat is new. This year an assistant harbormaster (a guy who sees a lot of boats) asked me the same question.

Peter





The seperate steps is the way to go if you don't mind a little extra work. Actually, three is the best.
1 - Clean (Compound)
2 - Polish (bring up the shine)
3 - Protect (with a wax or sealant)
 
I read this in a ski magazine a few years ago, and it makes sense: "Wax sticks best to wax." Thus, don't remove the wax if things are looking acceptable. Just put more on.

That being said, I've been off wax on my boat for years now. Carnuba wax is yellow, and makes the boat look yellow. I like the "protective" products like "NuFinish". I've been using Aurora products for the past few years and the boat stays white. I hear "NuFinish" does similar, but I haven't tried it.
 
If you want to completely remove an old layer of wax use either Dawn or Spray Nine in water. Both products will effectively remove all the wax.

All waxes are a blend of different waxes cut in a solvent blend. The cleaner waxes are merely this same combination of waxes cut in a harsher solvent blend, which aides in greater cleaning power. The hardest wax has a higher concentrate of carnuba and gives you the best shine. However, it is also the most difficult to buff out. The primary difference between a wax and a polymer coating is the wax is thermoplastic and the polymer is thermoset, for all intent and purposes. This simply means that the wax will soften up as the temperature increases whereas the polymer will not.

When you apply any wax over a previous layer of wax the solvent blend will dissolve the old layer. If you want to prove this point, apply wax to a small area and don't buff it out. Come back the following day and apply a second coat of wax over the previous layer and the second coat will dissolve the first coat. Therefore, applying multiple coats of wax is pointless, since you're left with the same thin coat of wax. Each subsequent coat of wax will dissolve the previous coat. This does not apply to a polymer coating. Multiple layers can be built up to give a higher refractive index and greater shine.

The principle behind a wax shine is leaving a very thin layer of wax on the surface. When you buff the dried wax either by hand or machine, you remove most of the wax. This is done because you're generating heat and removing most of the wax. You can see this same phenomenon when you buff an apple.

The thermoplastic properties of a wax contribute to it softening up as the temperature rises. When this happens, it picks up and retains contaminates which contribute to it becoming dull. If the wax contains a high percentage of carnuba wax it will retain it's shine for a longer period of time, due to it's higher melting point. That's also why waxes with a high level of carnuba are more difficult to apply. They require more heat/friction to melt.

The polymer coatings such as Zaino, Rejex, Pro Polish, etc. thermoset after a period of time-like 24 hrs. Subsequent coats can be built up to afford more protection to the surface and a higher level of shine.

Unless your hull is heavily oxidized, you can forget about the compounding and polishing steps and use either a wax or polymer.
 
Damn, RobV1, it sure sounds like you know how to protect surfaces! I learned a lot.

Now the big question, what do you recommend? From what I read, wash with Dawn, then a couple of coats of Rejex seems like it may be the way to go!

thanks, Peter
 
I use the dawn and Rejex scenario.

If I have to eliminate any oxidation, I use Buff Magic before the Rejex. The nice thing about Rejex is that it's solvent blend does a good cleaning job and it applies easily. It's also easily removed.
 
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