Q's...before starting

[dtprkr]

Hi,
I have been reading alot of the posts and advice thats been given out pertaining to oxidation removal. But, before I get started on my 2000 Bayliner Ciera.. I have some questions that I hope can get cleared up. During the compounding stage I've seen where people have refered to the pad as a "white wool" pad. Do you guys use a wool pad with a velco back and plate or the old school tie down with a string
kind? Another question that I have is, does anyone use a dual action polisher (like a porter cable) or is the best results with HF one? 3rd.. Can good results be accomplished with a foam pad also or is the wool best for oxidation? Am I correct in thinking that you guys apply the compound or cleaner by hand, and then work it in and remove it with the buffer? Does any of the local stores carry the wool superbuff pads...ie Auto Zone?

thanks for your time
dtprkr

 

[SLW]

I've been fortunate to work alongside my neighbor, so we've shared resources and together have collected nearly every type of pad, machine and product you can think of.

The method of attaching the pad isn't as much of a concern as the surface and type of the pad itself. Velcro has it's advantages though - the biggest one being the ease and speed of changing the pads. The cleanliness of a pad has a serious impact on performance, so being able to swap a dirty pad for a clean one and getting right back to work shouldn't be discounted.

I have a Porter Cable 7424. It's a great little machine, but it's not meant for heavy oxidation removal. I use it over decals, on the non-skid and textured areas and in the corners where I need to concentrate effort, but don't want to burn the gelcoat. Many people like orbital machines like the 7424 for applying wax, but that's the easiest step of the whole process, so I usually do that by hand.

I don't like foam pads. Others swear by them. I've attached them to both a rotary and the orbital, using a polish and a finisher, and they REDUCE the shine that I achieved with wool.

You won't get very far by applying a compound by hand. Again, if you're fighting oxidation, you won't even get very far with an orbital. A rotary polisher is best, and once you master the technique, there ISN'T a step of removing the compound. It'll break down and be absorbed into the pad, and you can even stretch it by adding water or detailers mist as you work. (that's a tip from our own Manmade - at $52 bucks per quart for some of this stuff, stretching it is important) My application process varies by surface and product. If the product is in a squeeze bottle, I just put a few drops directly on the pad. For the thicker compound, I just smear some right onto the boat. The rotary we use has a soft start feature, so it doesn't fling compound around like a cheaper polisher might... your results may vary.

I haven't found quality pads in the auto stores. You'll have better luck right here on Boatfix, or a paint supply store.

 

[Gregory S]

I've used both wool pads with the velcro back and foam pads with velcro. I put the compound on the pad then smear it around the area I'm going to work with the buffer off. Then I turn it on and apply it evenly and work it in. I usually remove it by hand.
Greg