Remove Freeze Plugs When Winterizing?

[Crownline 242]

A little background. I moved from NJ to MN over the summer . My boat was last winterized in the fall 2011 by my marina in NJ (flush with pink, then drain the block). I removed the shrink wrap before I transported the boat to MN. I left the boat in dry dock for the summer and did not start the engines.

I called the yard to have it shrink wrapped, but I needed a day to take the batteries out and lower the drive. A little later that day, the yard called to tell me that they were ahead of schedule asked if they could do it that day. I said OK, just lower the drives and take the batteries out.

Here is where it gets strange (at least for me). They call me back and ask if the boat was winterized. I told them yes. He then told me that my freeze plugs were still in the engine. I was like “uumm…OK…thanks".

I thought about it overnight and called the yard and asked the mechanic why did he tell me my freeze plugs were in? He told me that they remove freeze plugs for winterization. He then lets me know that he removed mine and that he found no water in the block. I then asked him if he put them back and his response was that they do not put them back until spring.

Is this normal in extreme climates?

 

[rawidman]

Your engine's service manual should give the winterizing proceedure. I have never before seen a recommendation to remove the freeze plugs (which are not "freeze plugs" in the first place, just plugs to fill holes from the casting process).

Usually, the block is drained, then filled with non-toxic antifreeze which is left in the engine until spring commisioning.

 

[tugboat kevin]

we remove all drain plugs and hoses to drain water then we flush with pink then reinstall everything so it can be fired up in the spring we do not leave drain plugs out there is no need its just more work in the spring

 

[boatbum]

This is an extra and unnecessary labor charge. In all of our years on the upper Hudson we never did this, or heard of it. I am assuming your boat is raw water cooled? If not, I'm thinking you were ripped off. Unless of course there is confusion in terminology which is the only explanation I can think of to explain this.

 

[JimPend]

It's not a good idea to leave an engine drained, it will cause corrosion. I remove the thermostats and run 7 gallons of a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze through them each (454's). I replace the thermostats and they are ready to go in the spring.

 

[j-d]

Crownline said the mechanic said "Freeze Plugs" (which Rawidman pointed out they really are not...) and Tugboat Kevin sais "Drain Plugs." Kevin's statement makes sense. Unscrewing little threaded pipe plugs, sure. Freeze/Core plugs about can't be accessed and changed without taking the engine out of the hull. I don't think (and I sure hope) that wasn't what was done!
Core Plug

Drain Plug

The one I hope we're really talking about!

 

[pdecat]

what JD said.

 

[Thudpucker]

I guarantee you'll just about Crap your pants when you pull those Freeze Plugs if you've been running in salt water.
Flakes bigger than your Post Toasties will be collecting down at the bottom of the block recess'.

It's good to pull the Salt Water engines Plugs. Clean that stuff out.
In fresh water there's no reason to pull your plugs if you've drained the block. I never did in Alaska.

 

[Veg]

Nobody I know around here takes the plugs out. I did it the first year when I had the raw water cooled Volvos on the Doral, then didn't do it the second year, no problems. I have never done it in 5 years with the Tiara but these engines are FWC so it's not really an issue. I just verify the antifreeze is still providing the required protection and flush the raw water side with the pink stuff.

 

[Bob J]

quote:

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Originally posted by JimPend

It's not a good idea to leave an engine drained, it will cause corrosion. I remove the thermostats and run 7 gallons of a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze through them each (454's). I replace the thermostats and they are ready to go in the spring.

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WOW! 7 gallons..I use 4 gal of 50/50 blend since forever in central NJ. If engines are fresh water cooled & you are winterizing raw water side of engine; thermostat does not enter the picture.

 

[JimPend]

I know that, they are not closed systems, the blocks are lake water cooled too.

 

[LouC]

They must have meant the drain plugs not the "freeze" really core plugs. I drain my engine manually, then poke the openings to make sure all the water drained out and then I reinstall the drain plugs with a bit of OMC gasket sealer on the threads to prevent corrosion and leaks. One year I had a bit of a drip of salt water from a manifold drain and it rusted up a starter solenoid in no time. You do not want to leave em out because you can get corrosion in the threads. I backfill the engine and manifolds with -100 antifreeze after draining and replacing the plugs.

 

[jtybt15]

I agree with everyone. The thing is, if the yard pulled the core plugs, you might as well do a complete flush of the block and get out the any flakes of rust that get washed down...like thuddie said.

 

[gcolton]

I see a lot of talk of 50/50 solutions on here.

With what I have heard of winter temperatures in parts on Minnesota I am not sure that is strong enough.

George

 

[Gregory S]

if you are diluting 50/50, I'd assume you are using ethylene glycol, not the pink stuff. 50/50 would be good down to 30 below. It gets colder than that in Minnesota? What mix are they using in cars? We'er not talking wind chill here.

 

[Crownline 242]

Thanks everyone. I know what I heard and it was “Freeze Plugs”, which is why I called the next day to confirm.

As mentioned by a few it could be a terminology thing…just like I had to get used the phrase “do you want a pop?”. This does not necessarily mean someone wants to get into a fist fight with you

I will try to straighten out today. Which is another thing...nobody works weekends around here

 

[pdecat]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

 

[LouC]

The antifreeze for engine storage is rated by burst temp not freeze temp, the -50 or -60 will slush up when it gets cold but will not expand to the point that it cracks things, they start to solidify at about 8-10*F or so. I tried putting a sample of each in the freezer at zero degrees one year to test. The -100 stays liquid at that temp, that's what I have used to back fill the engine and manifolds.

these antifreezes should NOT be diluted, they are pre-mixed for use. You can use un-diluted propylene glycol antifreeze and mix it 50/50 but I would not use ethylene glycol because it is so toxic. Keep in mind that when you start your engines unless you drain it out first it will wind up either all over the ground or in the water.

 

[rawidman]

quote:

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Originally posted by LouC

............. Keep in mind that when you start your engines unless you drain it out first it will wind up either all over the ground or in the water.

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And that is a very bad thing. Since you can't drain it out, don't put it in therein the first place. Use a non-toxic antifreeze in a raw water cooled engine.

 

[Pa Mikee]

Using any pre-mixed should not be diluted. The pre-mix will be diluted with any residual water. You'll be be be surprised by seeing what an original pre-mix at 70% vs at 30%; -50* vs 8*.