I think the Nu-teak interior product is very similar to Amtico, I've seen samples of both. I think Amtico may have more color options though, Nu-teak only has 3. I was quoted $12 a square foot for Nu-teak supplies only (including the glues) at the Annapolis show a couple weeks ago, previously I was always told $11.
Teak decking
- Thread starter Tip-Sea
- Start date
Just received my samples from Nu-Teak... not from the local dealer I called twice and emailed repeatedly but never sent the samples after he said he would... but from Nu-Teak directly.
Mine are interior samples... American Cherry and Teak. The Cherry looks to be a dead on match for my cabinets in the galley. The interior samples appear to be much thinner than the exterior. These are about 1/8 of an inch at most in thickness.
Have to give it some thought.... and call Amtico tomorrow to see how their product differs.
--Rick
Mine are interior samples... American Cherry and Teak. The Cherry looks to be a dead on match for my cabinets in the galley. The interior samples appear to be much thinner than the exterior. These are about 1/8 of an inch at most in thickness.
Have to give it some thought.... and call Amtico tomorrow to see how their product differs.
--Rick
Here's some real world info on Amtico flooring. I installed it in my boat a couple years ago when I redid my entire interior. First let me say it looks great! I used the Teak (code W699) and the Beech (code W793). They do not make a holly wood per say, but the beech looks perfect. I had the teak cut in 2" wide strips and the beech cut in 1/4" wide strips. Amtico uses actual wood inlays in their product. Their product is only to be used indoors last time I checked.
Amtico offers very little advice on the install. And let me tell you, the install flat out SUCKS! They specify that their 'proprietary' epoxy must be used otherwise the warranty is void. I purchased two gallons of their epoxy because they specified only a 40-60 minute working time. Because of this, I decided to prefit the entire floor. This required a chalk line down the middle of the floor, and then start fitting each and every piece. I labeled R1A for right piece, #1 to the right of the chalk line, and 'A' for the most forward piece. Subsequent pieces were labeled R1B, C, D etc as you went towards the stern. Next row would be R2A, etc. To the left of the chalk line would be L1A, etc. I taped everything with masking tape to keep a tight fit. When everything was done, we took clear tape and ran several rows side to side and picked up the entire upper and lower portion of the flooring and set it aside. Now you must trowel the two part epoxy down. The directions state that you must pierce the top canister, it flows into the lower canister, then you separate the top portion from the lower, mix, and trowel into place. When I opened up the gallon container, I realized the gallon of epoxy was only a 1/2 gallon at best. So now you're required to lay the entire thing in one shot because you only have 40-60 minutes. So one person tears off the strips from the tape and one lays as fast as they can. By the time you're done making it look good, 45 minutes has passed in a heart beat. Now Amtico requires you to roll the floor with 100 lb roller. How the hell are you going to get a 100 lb roller into the salon? I found that my wood roller support used while cutting wood on a table saw when flipped made a great floor roller! I put my body weight into it, and presto a 100 lb+ roller. Now after rolling it, the epoxy seeps up ever so slightly through the cracks between each piece. They specify cleaning the glue off with denatured alcohol. Any mineral spirits or acetone causes the material to swell apparently. Again, you're working against the clock to get it all off before it dries, all while keeping the pieces from shifting around. The top portion in the galley was much easier than the bottom. The bottom you basically end up working yourself into a corner. Because of this, there is no way to avoid standing on the floor before it's dried. Now a smart person would ask how the hell would you roll the floor out anyway if the floor isn't mostly dried? So the slightest movement on the floor causes the pieces to shift slightly. Now glue seeps up and gets on your shoes. So you strip the shoes off and down to your socks. Now it gets on your socks. You're basically fighting a losing battle. I communicated my thoughts and experience to Amtico because it definitely could use some improvement. The guy on the other end had no comments whatsoever and just said 'thanks'. Again, the product looks amazing afterwards, but I would not suggest a self installation unless you're pretty handy and put some thought into the process prior to popping that epoxy. The flooring isn't cheap and some places will only sell it by the 45 sq. ft box!
FYI - Amtico doesn't tell you this, but the subfloor must be perfectly flat otherwise any imperfections will show. This required us to lay a 1/4" subfloor as well.
Here's some pictures from when I redid my entire interior 2 years ago...
Amtico offers very little advice on the install. And let me tell you, the install flat out SUCKS! They specify that their 'proprietary' epoxy must be used otherwise the warranty is void. I purchased two gallons of their epoxy because they specified only a 40-60 minute working time. Because of this, I decided to prefit the entire floor. This required a chalk line down the middle of the floor, and then start fitting each and every piece. I labeled R1A for right piece, #1 to the right of the chalk line, and 'A' for the most forward piece. Subsequent pieces were labeled R1B, C, D etc as you went towards the stern. Next row would be R2A, etc. To the left of the chalk line would be L1A, etc. I taped everything with masking tape to keep a tight fit. When everything was done, we took clear tape and ran several rows side to side and picked up the entire upper and lower portion of the flooring and set it aside. Now you must trowel the two part epoxy down. The directions state that you must pierce the top canister, it flows into the lower canister, then you separate the top portion from the lower, mix, and trowel into place. When I opened up the gallon container, I realized the gallon of epoxy was only a 1/2 gallon at best. So now you're required to lay the entire thing in one shot because you only have 40-60 minutes. So one person tears off the strips from the tape and one lays as fast as they can. By the time you're done making it look good, 45 minutes has passed in a heart beat. Now Amtico requires you to roll the floor with 100 lb roller. How the hell are you going to get a 100 lb roller into the salon? I found that my wood roller support used while cutting wood on a table saw when flipped made a great floor roller! I put my body weight into it, and presto a 100 lb+ roller. Now after rolling it, the epoxy seeps up ever so slightly through the cracks between each piece. They specify cleaning the glue off with denatured alcohol. Any mineral spirits or acetone causes the material to swell apparently. Again, you're working against the clock to get it all off before it dries, all while keeping the pieces from shifting around. The top portion in the galley was much easier than the bottom. The bottom you basically end up working yourself into a corner. Because of this, there is no way to avoid standing on the floor before it's dried. Now a smart person would ask how the hell would you roll the floor out anyway if the floor isn't mostly dried? So the slightest movement on the floor causes the pieces to shift slightly. Now glue seeps up and gets on your shoes. So you strip the shoes off and down to your socks. Now it gets on your socks. You're basically fighting a losing battle. I communicated my thoughts and experience to Amtico because it definitely could use some improvement. The guy on the other end had no comments whatsoever and just said 'thanks'. Again, the product looks amazing afterwards, but I would not suggest a self installation unless you're pretty handy and put some thought into the process prior to popping that epoxy. The flooring isn't cheap and some places will only sell it by the 45 sq. ft box!
FYI - Amtico doesn't tell you this, but the subfloor must be perfectly flat otherwise any imperfections will show. This required us to lay a 1/4" subfloor as well.
Here's some pictures from when I redid my entire interior 2 years ago...
OK, I've been in contact with Ron at http://tampabayyachtmasters.com/C-Flor 5a.html
He is an AMTICO dealer as well as a Nu-Teak dealer. He has given me a price on AMTICO strip flooring (I am going with mahogany and holly because it matches my cabinetry). He also installs this stuff and is willing to provide instructions and hints. Apparently, the adhesive is now available in tubes to be used with a caulking gun so there's none of the gallons, mixing, etc.
There's also a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUqrGXwragU
on installing this stuff but you'll want to turn the sound off and just read the commentary in the video.
He is an AMTICO dealer as well as a Nu-Teak dealer. He has given me a price on AMTICO strip flooring (I am going with mahogany and holly because it matches my cabinetry). He also installs this stuff and is willing to provide instructions and hints. Apparently, the adhesive is now available in tubes to be used with a caulking gun so there's none of the gallons, mixing, etc.
There's also a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUqrGXwragU
on installing this stuff but you'll want to turn the sound off and just read the commentary in the video.
Ron,
Did you end up getting samples from them? Is the C-floor product on their website the same as Amtico? I had trouble with the pricing list not coming up and did not see a color choice area either.
How much per square foot did he quote you?
James
Did you end up getting samples from them? Is the C-floor product on their website the same as Amtico? I had trouble with the pricing list not coming up and did not see a color choice area either.
How much per square foot did he quote you?
James
I didn't get samples from TBYM but I got some from Nu-Teak. AMTICO supplies the C-Flor product to Nu-Teak, it's the same thing.
I sent TBYM a drawing and measurements and he figured I would need 85 square feet including 10% for waste. It's only sold in full boxes so I would actually buy 90 square feet. Including the glue (tubes) and two extra tubes of glue, the price is $1,475.75 plus shipping.
I'm going with mahogany and holly because it will match the cabinetry. He is recommending the 3" plank width but it's also available in 2 1/4 or something like that.
This isn't like buying from ebay or the like, he's a guy who installs this material in boats and will walk you through the installation if you have questions.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2002
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Noone said it was cheap!
I paid like $42sf for mine but we also got 4 boats to do it and we all had well over 100sf per boat.
I paid like $42sf for mine but we also got 4 boats to do it and we all had well over 100sf per boat.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2002
- RO Number
- 10265
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- 9,958
Did you try tt marine? Travis will work with you if you have a bunch of boats.
For me, although it sounds attractive, it is not a good idea.
I determined years ago that it did not make good economic sense to do these kinds of jobs myself, even though I know I am fully capable of them.
I look at the this way, if a job is going to take me x number of hours to complete, I am better off spending that x number of hours at work, doing what I do best, and then paying a professional x number of hours doing what they do best.
In the end I have decided that if I am not at work, I better be having fun, because it is costing me alot in lost productivity.
I have gotten to the point where I have marina staff clean my boat for me once a week so when I am on board, I can enjoy every minute of it.
For others, retirees for instance, obviously it is a different story.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2002
- RO Number
- 10265
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- 9,958
Any job that involves percision is not a DIY job as this.
Any job that involves physical labor and your over 50, you should have someone else do.
Any job that just requires a brain and 2 hands and does not not fall into the 2 above categories, I will tackle!
Laying down teak requires precesion, you can easily make a expensive mistake and blow your savings.
Waxing a boat is easy but is very physical, will lay me up with a bad back for days, so I don't do it.
Changing my own oil, winterizing, basic maintenance, quick wash, I will do all that!
Any job that involves physical labor and your over 50, you should have someone else do.
Any job that just requires a brain and 2 hands and does not not fall into the 2 above categories, I will tackle!
Laying down teak requires precesion, you can easily make a expensive mistake and blow your savings.
Waxing a boat is easy but is very physical, will lay me up with a bad back for days, so I don't do it.
Changing my own oil, winterizing, basic maintenance, quick wash, I will do all that!
Some of us are more skilled than others. Your office or sales person who has never held a tool in his or her hands before should definately leave something like this to the pros. On the other hand, many of us have full woodworking shops and construct furniture or other such items and will have the skills necessary to install flooring. Many of us have already installed flooring in our homes. It's not rocket science.
I would think the hardest part is not actually installing the flooring, but laying it out so it looks balanced and making sure all the ends of the boards don't line up.
For example, you won't want a 1/2" wide strip at a wall or the edge of a hatch.