TEAK

BoatCrazy

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Hey all

Looking for suggestions on what to use on my teak swim platform and my pulpit.

I would love a gloss finish, but I do not want to start messing with a varnish.

I thought about leaving it el natural, but I really want to put something on it to protect it.

Any suggestions??
 
If you want a nice gloss finish, varnish it must be. I swear by Epifanes, and swear at Cetol (it's like spray tan for boats). A lot of people have had great success with epoxy first, then varnish. May try this myself since I'm redoing the mahogany on my little boat.
 
Does the Tropical Teak Sealer, have an oily finish?

Most oils I have used in the past have that oily finish, and I am not a fan of it.
 
recognize that you will be starting a never ending maintenance project. Teak is an oily wood and when covered with a clear finish the oil starts to vaporize lifting the finish. On platforms you have another source of problems. The bottom is often unfinished so water wets the teak from that side causing lifting joints provide water entry points as well. Any screws or other penetrations are sources of intrusion. That's why varnish fails usually at fittings or joints first.

If you still want color bleaching and oiling is probably the easiest as it will last most of a season and is not hard to redo.

Letting it go gray is what I dis after getting tired of slaving over boat magazine cover looking teak. It is just not worth it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BoatCrazy

Does the Tropical Teak Sealer, have an oily finish?

Most oils I have used in the past have that oily finish, and I am not a fan of it.






No. It dries and seals the teak.
 
I use the Cetol Marine Light, it has very little pigment or coloring agent.
I also do not like the heavy coloring in some of their products. It looks fake.
 
Just got a first coat of epoxy on my mahogany rub rails. First time trying epoxy under the varnish. No idea if the same thing would work for teak - don't even know yet if it will work on mahogany.

I remember this stripping and sanding brightwork thing being much easier ten years ago...
 
quote:

Originally posted by November Charlie

Just got a first coat of epoxy on my mahogany rub rails. First time trying epoxy under the varnish. No idea if the same thing would work for teak - don't even know yet if it will work on mahogany.

I remember this stripping and sanding brightwork thing being much easier ten years ago...





What epoxy are you using. I've been using Epiphanes on my woodwork but would like something longer lasting and less number of coats.
 
I used the last of the West System I had in my garage. And I do mean the last of it - just barely had enough, and still didn't get the inside bottom edges. If I was buying new, I'd use something slower - it was kicking off too fast, so I have some more sanding to do, unfortunately. Hopefully I have time tomorrow to get it knocked down level and ready for the first coat of Epiphanes Friday morning. It's outside, so I hate to varnish any later than morning and have temp and humidity changes before it sets. Need to get this boat done and ready for the season. At least I have it sealed now so I don't have to sand any more water stains.
 
I used 3 coats of Cetol Natural and followed up with 3 coats of Cetol gloss. I'm very happy with the results. I did mine a year ago and followed up another coat of glosss a few weeks ago
 
I'd only put either oil or Cetol on a swim platform. But you are better off keeping it clean and natural.

If you are going to seal it, in order for the finish to last the longest you need to prep the wood well. Get it clean and smooth. I'd use at least 6 coats if I was using Cetol. And be sure to coat all sides.

With oil I'd keep applying it till the wood will not absorb any more of it.

As far as using epoxy as a base coat for varnish, West only makes one hardener with UV filters in it that they say can be exposed to the sun under a clear finish as I recall. Must people use a CPES under varnish as a base coat if the use any epoxy.
 
So the update:

The Epifanes (heavily stepped on with mineral spirits. Maybe 25% or so? Earballed the ratio. Cut it until it was closer to watery than syrupy.) went on great over the epoxy. I did sand the epoxy to knock down the low spots - since it had to be done in sunlight because my garage is a cluttered train wreck - with 120. Thoughts in no particular order:

-Seems to have adhered well, even in the low spots that didn't get sanded. I wiped several times with acetone, then Frog Tape to get up any lint from the shop rags and any dust that got missed.
-I prefer higher grade masking tape over tack rags for this because tack rags can leave a residue. In fact, I use either Frog Tape or 3M Fineline almost exclusively, not that I varnish or paint that much nowadays.

-My back hurts.

-Really wish I had knocked the epoxy down smoother. I got anxious to get varnish on since it was sitting in the sun and I used the West System I had on hand rather than buying the proper hardener for the application, and didn't want it yellowing. I also want to use the boat at some point soon and wanted to get it done. I can fair down and finish coat any time now that I have the mahogany and epoxy under varnish so it doesn't fade, cloud, and/or yellow. Really should have done it right the first time, but scarcity of spare time got the better of me.

-Even over epoxy, unless you're in a temp controlled garage, you really need to step on Epifanes with mineral spirits. They don't make it any thinner than the last time I used it, it's still syrupy out of the can and would drag pretty bad at can strength. You'll also risk orange peeling and bad fish-eyeing around the inevitable dust specks.

-Varnish was dry but not hard when I put a second build coat on today. Didn't sand between, as you really don't need to on a fresh coat w/ Epifanes. Will know in the morning if it was dry enough. Fingernail soft is okay, dragging soft is not.

-In the sun or on a hot day, keep a jug of mineral spirits nearby. Even though it's low flash, the varnish will thicken fast and occasionally need another splash.

-Keep a can of acetone nearby in case you get any on the fiberglass (I didn't, but I have before, and you need to get it off fast with something much stronger than mineral spirits).

-My back hurts.

-Bugs love this stuff.

-All in all, so far the epoxy base seems to be going about as it's rumored to. Really wish I had knocked it down smoother. The Epifanes itself is still my favorite varnish, and despite some claims to the contrary, is VERY easy to work with and get excellent results from. You just can't slop it straight from the can onto the wood - you need to cut it a bit, but it is very forgiving. You're not going to thin it too much as long as you use decent mineral spirits. No fake tan hue like Cetol.

-Bare spots (inside bottom edge of rails, ran out of epoxy before coating them) sucked up the varnish. Very thirsty spots. Still looks and feels like bare wood after two build coats that were not near as thin as the first coats on bare wood would be (50/50).

-My back hurts.

Now I'm thinking about shaping out about 12" white oak strips to put on top of the rail above the cleats as rub strips. Glutton for punishment. Someday I'll actually re-register it, buy new flares, and put the boat in the water and use it.
 
West epoxy with their uv hardener 207 doesn't last, at least in florida.... You need to cover it with something with real uv protection like clear Awlgrip

I have some trim with 3 coats of west/207 that I didn't get a chance to coat with Awlgrip and after 2 or 3 month it's dull.

On a swim platform or deck where you will walk , nothing beats keeping natural. For trim, pulpits, etc.l. Then oil is an option, as well as varnish, Cetol light or Cetol natural, etc...

Natural teak will turn light dray with time. You can use various things to bring it back blond although some like harsh two part cleaner do eat uo the teak. Another option I discoved recently is heqvy duty outdoor bleach. Cleans it nicely, remove stains and mildew but doesn't remove wood
 
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