Through hull lube

E

erice

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Jan 4, 2012
RO Number
32840
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What type of lube is used on through hull fittings/valves?
 
Not too sure what exactly you mean by lube. They should be set with something like 4200 when installing then, but I have never used a lube on the fitting itself when installing hose. Just double clamp. If you are talking about valves, any good marine grease should keep them problem free.
 
Depends on if you have the type with the fittings on the sides where you can inject lube directly into the valve or not. If you have the grease ports on the sides I like using Super Lube Teflon grease or Corrosion Block grease. They used to make bronze grease cups that you could fill with grease and then permanently screw into the side of the thru hull. Made lubing them in the future very easy. You just turned the grease filled cup a turn or two and it forces grease in to the valve.

You can put a stainless steel grease fitting on some of them and inject the grease into that.

If you have the type of thru hull that has no grease ports on the side, about all you can do is close the valve and spray lube down onto the ball seal. Let it sit a bit the work the valve open and closed numerous times. As to what to spray it with, I've used Corrosion Block, Boeshield, the spray version of Super Lube.
 
Afternoon,
In spite of the fact that I did it, I've heard using wheel bearing grease is a no-no. Seems something in the grease reacts with the bronze.
 
What I did last time was to disassemble the valves, clean and slather with silicone grease. Thought I'd see if that was the correct product.
 
When it comes to putting a hose on a thru-hull, I usually just use spit or stick the hose end in hot water for a minute. When it comes to any kind of plumbing valve that contains an o-ring or some rubber part, it is best to use the silicone grease. Regular grease or vaseline will shorten the life of the rubber parts.
 
A couple times a season, I just apply a little dielectric grease to the exterior valve shaft area between the cast bronze handle lever and cast bronze main body of the seacock/ valves, then exercise the valve. This is all my pricy yotty winter yard does when they "service" these seacocks.The never lube internals. It has worked fine on mine for 20yrs.

Just in case though I do keep short lengths of pipe of diameter just large enough to slip over the handles handy for emergency leverage if ever needed, and I do exercise the seacock handles whenever I am inside those hatches. These things need their exercise.

I wouldn't ever have a valve on a thru-hull that was not a good marine quality cast-bronze body and (thick) handle, flanged-base seacock , as I've seen too many of the lighter type break when needed- mostly at the shaft or handle, and/or jam internally.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Savasa

Morning all,
After a bit of Goggling, evidently there is a "special" seacock grease. This article may help.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks

Click to expand...


That is what I think of as a true old school seacock. And as shown they take a completely different level of maintenance. You just don't see them much any more. More and more boats come with the ball sealed valve type of "seacock".
 
Depends on the type of valve. Tapered bronze,taperedrubber, ball, telfon ball, gate???
 
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