Trailer Centering Guides

J

justgotaboat

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
RO Number
31427
Messages
159
I thought it would be helpful in retrieving our boat to get a set of trailer guides. Long story short, I could not easily find a set that I liked to fit our aluminum trailer, so I welded my own up out of aluminum stock I had laying around. They are basically an "L" shape that will bolt to the frame of the trailer. It is a venture bunk trailer and I have a searay 245 weekender.

Question is.... (and I guess this would have gone for store bought ones too... ) but how far away from the boats rubrail do I want to mount the guides. It would seem that snug would not be the best option when traveling down the highway. But I do not want to leave to much of a gap. I did make them so they could be moved, but it requires drilling new holes in the tubing each time I pick a place. Its not a big deal, but too many holes is obviously not good. I was hoping for some advice for a starter location to work from... e.g. 8'8" between vertical tubes, or 2" off rubrail when boat is centered... etc. Thanks!! (any other hints with centering guides would be helpful if you have them)
 
I made sure the boat was centered on the trailer,then put them about an inch off the widest part of the boat.
IM000007.jpg


hope this is what you were looking for

ken
 
I would make sure that you measure it from the widest point of the boat. Usually that is not the stern. Mine are 3-4 inches off of each side. That gives my bow room to squeeze in.
Van
 
The alignment poles on my previous boat/trailer combination were much taller than those in the picture above. You want to be able to see the alignment markers with the trailer in the water at the loading depth. Mine were aluminum L shaped except that from maybe a few feet up in the vertical direction they transitioned to PVC tubing. This is very nice as the aluminum will potentially scuff the boat. They were probably 5 or 6 ft tall.

-Rick

50 Viking Sport Cruiser
 
Yeah. Mine are built to be much taller, probably 6'. I was going to wrap them in something, or slide some pvc over them to prevent them from scratching the boat as well.
 
Just a suggestion
I would add five ft of 1 1/2 heavy wall PVC to the rear mount.
This will act as a guide for the bow mount.
You WILL run over the guides and fender if on a steep ramp or in wind or current.
Don't ask how I know
 
I welded a set for my boat out of lead pipe. My boat dealer ordered me a sock (4' length) that they use on ski boats. Then I put a pipe cap on the top tubing, and they have worked very well. The sock keeps from scratching the rub rail, since they do go over the top. I measured from the widest point on the hull sides as well, and found the stern was the same as the widest point. They have been on 4 years now and love them. Better than the PVC tubes, as I don't have to worry about breaking them. And the sock prevents any scratch damage.
 
bendable pvc works great, sort of built in shock absorption on rougher days. you want them to extend above the rub rail when the trailer is in deep. otherwise, they can scrape the gel. or, even worse, if the height is perfectly wrong the rub rail can slam on the guide pole and possibly cause damage to the rail...esp with a badly timed roller or wave.

contact cemented outdoor carpet has lasted on mine for 7 years and counting.
 
what I built will look similar to what DeeVee has there, except mine are one piece of aluminum, and as of now does not have the pvc around it. But I will get something so its not aluminum to gelcoat/rubrail direct contact
 
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