Transom repair

"Either way, a good reference source is publ.#002-550 from west marine, "Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance", under $5."
worth every penny.
Covers stringer repair.
Buzz
 
Buzz
I am going read that book you recommend.

QUESTION
I now have the transom dry-fitted (looks great). The interface of the lower transom and each stringer has about 3/4" of foam separating them (factory design). I am already replacing the rear portion of each stringer, and sense it would be structurally much stronger if the stringers and transom were butted and permanently tied into each other. Would there be any reason not to do this?

The only factor I can think of might be vibration isolation... but don't know how critical this would be given this is a 4 cylinder I/0.
Don
 
Pay attention to how water will drain in the bilge to the plug. You don't want to create any pockets where water will sit. This may be the reason there is a gap between the stringers and the transom.
 
It's a good idea, I did just that (bond stringer to transom). It's probably not as crucial as with an outboard setup but it won't hurt. Make sure there's clearance for any engine/drive train part...Vibration shouldn't be an issue.
While you're in there, check those motor mount bolts for tightness and holding. And all the other nuts and bolts like on solenoids, starters, etc. (battery disconnected ;) don't like those fireworks!
Buzz
 
UPDATE:
Everything is now dry fit and cleaned up (cutting is officially over!). I took a router to the external transom edges so the fiberglass would flow around it and onto the glass behind it (less gapping should = better bonding on more surface area). All boards are sanded, both sides with 50 grit in a x-hatched pattern with a belt sander. Made a resin sandwich of the two 3/4" transoms with some WEST Epoxy and clamped them together for drying this week. The transom I/O pattern matches up perfectly with the access holes in the stern. I left the drain hole closed until I buy a new sleeve and will drill/seal it after the transom install.

Time to shop for fiberglass supplies...
I am snapping pics along the way so I can post after the job is done.
They may help someone else in the future.
Thx for all the great advice!!!!!
Don
 
Have fun, take your time, think things out in advance, use gloves when fiberglassing, have acetone nearby for cleanup, having a helper can be important, too. Consider a fume mask also.
Enjoy the job, it's a love of boats and sun on the water> it's why you're doing this right? :)
(Do you have warm enough temps where you are for resin to set-up? I'm using boated so can't see where you are-you need at least 70 degrees)

I'm even thinking the next boat just might be a project boat.....but with the economy like it is, boat buyers are in the captain's seat right now, so I'll be looking for one that speaks to me. (And the Admiral, of course.)
Buzz
 
I hear ya Buzz
My 1982 Carver was quite a project boat. Now we have her turned around.
It never ends for those of us who enjoy the water..... You are right!
I am afraid of the day when I get the itch to "move up" to 45- 50'.
It will be a happy and sad day at the same time.
 
And yes, I had the garage Temp cranked up to >80 degrees this last weekend. With a little sand, some sunscreen and a cold one I could almost have imagined that winter was over in Michigan! 8 more inches of snow last night brought me back to reality...
8-)
 
Don, these are the two fiberglassing rollers I bought for the job. They work well in tight spaces and on glass mat.
Pick up a good squeegee if you're doing a lot of glassing, if not you could get by with the cheap red/yellow ones for car bondo, but having both kinds is good.
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Buzz
 
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