Trojan 440 Upgrades, Fixes and Ideas

Allen, you can find out a lot of the history from Cummins. Get them your serial numbers and they will tell you whatever warranty work was done on them.
 
John it was great to meet you yesterday afternoon.
Mike the Cummings records will only show any warranty or house work done by them. It might not have the owners records which could be revealing.
Allen it sounds like you are on the right road and your engines are fine. That has to be comforting.
Bill
 
So where is my panel different?
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quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

John it was great to meet you yesterday afternoon.
Mike the Cummings records will only show any warranty or house work done by them. It might not have the owners records which could be revealing.
Allen it sounds like you are on the right road and your engines are fine. That has to be comforting.
Bill

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Thanks Bill. When I bought the Boat the engines only had 210 hours or so, the generator had 165. I was very comfortable with what wasn't working well like the RPM and Radar which after not working for 10 years I fixed by replacing a 5 amp fuse. The boat was up in MI in Lake ST Clair, one owner low hours and little wear and tear. I am confident the RPM issue is technical not mechanical. But as Dave and Mike said had to be higher priority which it wasn't really. But still I am relived :-)
 
The only difference that I see is that your battery charger is on the side with the AC. My battery charger is controlled with the switch that says cockpit accesories. Also, my vacuum which is under the sink is on the receptacle circuit. Leaving the bottom one as a spare. I like that and I think I will make that change as I do have spare on the AC side ciruit.

Something I do not understand is that there are also a set of switches in the the cockpit for some of these items and both have to be on. The battery charger is one of them. I do not see the need or a reason for the duplicate switches. I also have two switches that say battery charger in the cockpit seperate from those the two cockpit acc. switches that have to be on for the battery charger to work. I have turned them on and off and can not see that they do anything except light the on indicator light. And I have tried to decipher from the owners manual what and why but I lost my secret decoder ring so that is a no go. If it would not cost so damn much I would yank all of the wiring and have it redone. It is one thing on these boats that certainly leaves a lot to be desired.

One other thing. I marked my blower for the genset with an on/off sticker. I had twice left it on and drained the battery. Second time I had to replace the battery as it would no longer hold a charge. I figured I did not need to do that again.
 
It was good to finally meet you to Bill. Also thanks for the transducer unit. I think it will work perfectly. Now I just need the weather to clear up a couple days. I hope on your next trip down here I can buy you dinner or lunch.
 
John what a great idea :-) sticker is being made as we speak. just heard from the shop office. the mechanic got the engines to 2600 but it wasn't full load so they are very comfortable that the engines would have been at 2750-2800 at WOT. They think my Tachs are off by 350-400 RPM. They suggest I should just try to calibrate the tachs and not replace them.
 
Many years I had the opposite problem with my fathers boat we could never understand why the boat was slow and how it was so efficient we finally realized the tachs were off I used a portable tach and adjusted the ones at the helm. With the access he had on that boat it only took a few minutes to adjust.
 
I wish it was as simple as an adjustment for me. Mine stick and jump around. Especially when cold. Now that I have the transducer from Bill and I think all the other parts I need I am hoping to wrap that project up this weekend. New gauges, new chart plotter and new sounder.
 
I am planning to try and install my gauges sometime before the 4 of July, if I make it that is. Based on the mechanic there is some difference in connectivity but I haven't seen anything. Hopefully can get it done.
 
Allen,
Your boat should be set up with twin 30 amps or a single 50 amp. I have never heard of this boat comming with twin 50 amps. could they have changed the feeds? I have one single 50 amp and an 11kw gen set. The boat was also set up for the davit in the garage/lazerette and I have no issues with utilizing all my equipment.

Regarding your tachs, you will need to pick up a remote tach to allow you to see what the proper RPM are, then you should be able to adjust your tachs from the back of the guage.
 
Thanks Bob, I figured I will have to buy or borrow a remote Tach. I bought a Y adapter so I can hook to the 50 and run two 30's to the boat. I have another set of adapters then from the 30's into the boat 50's. I will show you this weekend. They must have planned to built a power plant on the boat :-) before I bought this boat I looked at 4 other Trojan's but non was with such set up.
The previously owner was so limited physically so he had ONE 30 running to the boat for the ac and battery changer. With adapter off course
 
quote:
Originally posted by Delivering Happiness

John what a great idea :-) sticker is being made as we speak. just heard from the shop office. the mechanic got the engines to 2600 but it wasn't full load so they are very comfortable that the engines would have been at 2750-2800 at WOT. They think my Tachs are off by 350-400 RPM. They suggest I should just try to calibrate the tachs and not replace them.

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Was this at the dock, or did he measure them out on the water? The only way to check is to measure while you're running the boat.
 
Mike Isn't WOT at the dock?

Here is my theory. The covers over the switches say 30/125 but the intake on the boat is 50. Maybe the previous owners had some issues and change from the 30's to 50's? See below. At first i thought maybe the switches covers were replaced wrong.

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You have to run WOT away from the dock! If you can not reach the right RPM you are overloading your engines,not good. You would need to tweak your props. Lots of good info on Boat Diesel about props and engine loading.
 
Odvar the engines get the right RPM but not my gauges. I have a set of gauges which I will install this weekend or sometime next week. I agree about the props though, I think the 30/39 is too big regardless. I had a prop shop tell me they put those on 1000 hp engines.
 
Allen, 2600 WOT at the dock is not good. Please to on Boatdiesel and read every article about your engines!!!
 
Mike they got to 2600 but it wasn't full load. The mechanic didn't want to push to full load, he felt he was enough for him at 2600 and didn't want to max because it was obvious my gauges were not reading well. I wrote that on page 9 :-)

Do you all agree that max speed is about 25-26 knots? Not sure about you Bob as you have different engines. I do get to 24.5-25 knots but then my gauges read 2250 rpm which make no sense. Mechanic said they were of by 350 rpm.
 
Allen - An eaiser method might be to just change the plugs back 30A plugs and use 30A cords. Or change both circuits to just one circuit that is 50a 125/250volt.

I just looked at my connection that are back their and they are the same as yours. Two 50a 125v circuits. Mine have been disconnected and combined into one 50a 125/250v cable. I have never blown a circuit even with both ACs running.

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I don't see any reason you could not do the same.
 
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