Trojan 440 Upgrades, Fixes and Ideas

I'm pretty happy with mine! I won't want it to sound like there are a ton of issue in fact I think there are very few problems. Nothing that would keep me from buying the boat again! I have the oldest Trojan on this forum and it's in great shape so I won't complain anything!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Audrey II

I'm pretty happy with mine! I won't want it to sound like there are a ton of issue in fact I think there are very few problems. Nothing that would keep me from buying the boat again! I have the oldest Trojan on this forum and it's in great shape so I won't complain anything!

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Your Boat is in great shape. I didn't mean to sound like I wasn't happy with the boat. I am extremely happy, we all know she handle the water amazingly and we have more space, storage and comfort than anything else in this size. LOVE the boat.
Just curios about some minor decision making. Also Dave my point was that on your boat which is first year built I feel they have some more efficiency and thoughts into some minor things than on mine, like those tubes in the through holes, your counter top, garbage can in the wet bar etc... Then on the other hand I like my lay out better but I just wonder.
 
Same for me Dave. Maybe calling them problems would not be the correct term. I can say that I do really like the boat and the way it handles. The space inside and out. The accomodations.......

But there are some things in the design that could have been executed better. There are a few things that they designed in that I just do not understand. And there are other things that, IMHO, just need updating due to their age. And some things just need to be repaired/serviced/rebuilt from neglect or age.

Water in the bilge when it rains and leaking canvas around the radar arch seem to be pretty common problems. The design to evacuate water from the deck to overboard can be an issue if not maintained. The water leaking into the trunk can be an issue as well. The way the floor is designed it is more prone to rot than get rid of the water. Most of the stuff is easy to re-engineer though so it not as big an issue as it may seem. Sometimes we forget these boats are 15-20 years old.
 
I have the pre-Carver Trojan express and My radar Arch was the single worst designed aspect of the boat. Looks like they carried forth that tradition. I have constant leaks around the arch canvas and the arch has bowed a little over time form the radar. What type of inner support is on your aches?
 
Hi Scott. My arch is made out of aluminum. It is strong enough to support my weight so no problem with just about anything I want to put up there.
 
Here is my solution for the anchor locker run off. At least the temporary solution. Once I put in the thru hull to drain the locker as well as rebuild the shelf to direct rain water out of the anchor hole I should not need it any more.

Hose leading from pipe to shower sump
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I used silicone to seal the other end.
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I connected it directly to the sump
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I used clear tubing so I can see if there is water in it. There are other places in front of this bilge that water could come fromsuch as the railing stanchions or the nav light thru deck spots. If these work loose and water comes in I will know about it.

Since it rained all day yesterday I finished this project as well.

Before
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After
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Thanks John. I'm enjoying this thread. This is a boat I have interest in owning down the road. They seem extremely roomy and functional.
 
John great work. What is the last pictures before and after? Where is this storage?
I am working on relocating the bilge pump in the lazaret towards the forward part of the bilge and on the floor not on the wood they installed in the back. My drain holes with hoses from the sides i did last week worked. The mid bilge was full just that the pump was too high. Pictures in a few minutes.
 
Where the pump was before in the back of the bilge up in the wood platform:
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Where the pump is going to be, forward in the bilge. You can see the hoses i run from the upper bilge. Had through hull with no hoses so the water were going into the beam!
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The trough hole:
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I think that is a good plan Allen. When I tear out my floor to redo it later this summer I will look at that option for the pump. I also plan to find a gasket that will work to keep the majority of the water out as well as put a deck drain in each floor panel to stop any standing water that may get in there. In the end I will probably wind up epoxying the floors in and epoxy paint on the floor as well. Then I just need to maintain them.

The space for the second photos is where the w/d used to be. We never had a need for it so I pulled it out and worked out an exchange with Billy3 for a wave wifi (which I have not installed yet). We would rather have the space for storage. I had wood left over from the floors and used it to cover this area. I created a frame system of 1x2s with the exception of the back wall. I pub the back in first, then the floor and then the right side (left side was finished in cedar already). The right side has boards glued together at the joints and screwed down to the frame. That way I can still get to all of the fuel lines and the fuel tank inspection port without tearing up the wood itself. My wife found a nice stainless three shelf/basket pull out system that will fit perfectly. One of these weekends I will install that and we can start storing linens and such in there. There is a 110v electrical outlet to the left through an access panel that was for the w/d. I am going to drill a hole through the bulkhead to feed that line though and create a 110 outlet in the engine room. (DISCLAIMER: I CAN DO THIS BECAUSE I HAVE DIESELS, I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS IF YOU HAVE GAS ENGINES).

I had planned to work on the port side wet sanding, polishing and waxing this weekend but the rain has kept me at bay so I have been doing other odd projects. One thing I have not figured out yet is how to run a cable from the entertainment area to the saloon tele. I want to run two HDMI and one RCA set through to the television. When I finally do put the satalite dish up I will be able to put the DVD player and the dish controller there. Running it to the MSR is easy.
 
Whats funny is that it seem like we all have somewhat of the same plans and we do them in different order :-)
Now you got me thinking about leaking water from the nav lights.
I like what you dis with the w/d space.
Finished relocating the pump just to find there was a hole in the 15 years old hose. I don't think this pump ever worked before. Installed my new laZaret floor back and re enforced the silicon on all the through holes.
We have cables in the marina so for now i am not planning to install the satellite. Would like to upgrade my electronics and my head light. It is working but the remote doesn't turn it anymore.
 
Found out my anchor locker does have a thru hull this morning. Two actually. They are located in the notch of the chine on the outske and in each corner of the locker on the inside.

I was filling the water tank this morning. I put the hose in he hole, and return on the water. I went inside to watch the tank gauge. After about five minutes of the gauge not moving I went up top to check on it. The anchor locker was about half full. Water was fun down to my new hose but I also noticed water running out the chine. So once the locker was empty I moved the chain off to one side and noticed I could see light. It was pretty clogged with gunk but there is a type of pitot tube there. Found the same on the other side. So one of my rehab items will be to fill the drain to the bilge with so.icons and to fill he large tube with the wiring with that foam insulation. New simi-annual maintenance item will be the cleaning of these tubes.
 
John I ran a component cable from the entertainment cabinet to the TV it was a bit of a PITA but not the end of the world. From the shelve in front of the washer you can run to the door panel under the second stateroom from there it gets hard but you can run from the port most side of the door under the bed behind the closet and into the access under the day bath sink, from there it's an easy shot up to the TV. Trust me it can be done the cable I ran has 5 mini coaxes in it and it's a thick cable I do wish I had run a cat 5 as well but it would not be a major deal to add something now, I could do one section at a time and use the slack on the cable as a drag line actually I think I ran a drag line with it. If you run into trouble behind the closet and you may, pull the two draws and drill an access panel in the back wall you may want to do this anyway someone thought it would be a good idea to install hose fittings back there (that's right in a spot no one can see or get to and ask me how I know this) you guessed the first year I commissioned my boat I had a leak that drove me insane I traced it down to a fitting behind this closet. I don't remember if I use the access to help run the cable to the TV I may have being it was there.
If you have any questions feel free to call or PM me.
BTW I installed my Billy special Rogue Antenna this weekend so far I'm very happy I have only used it a little bit while at dock so it's still early, but worth the effort to install it when you get a chance again if you have any question call Bill just kidding feel free to call me I can walk you through what and how I installed it.
 
John I haven't gotten around to putting the washer/ dryer combo in yet. I wasn't even sure if I
would be boating this year. So far other than the so so weather it's been great getting back on
the water. To install the unit I will be removing a bunk and an upper closet. I have seen 2
installations of the unit I got from you in my Mainship and it shouldn't be that difficult.
The waterlines are a few feet away and there is already a 15 amp circuit (plug) where the washer
will go. I think I need to get rid of the door interlock circuit if I remember correctly.
Let me know if you have any issues when installing the ROGUE. I highly recommend installing it
the way Dave did. Everyone seems to be afraid of mounting the ROGUE in the elements.
When Ubiquiti made the base product it was intended to be mounted directly on a panel antenna
as a sector for a WiFi long range outdoor access point. The unit is IP65 rated.
They perform best when the ROGUE is connected directly to an external antenna.
Bill
 
Happy you found those drain holes in the anchor room. This weekend my windless decided to not work, it is turning but not pulling the chain. Seem like something is lose inside. Had to pule the chain by hand.
 
Allen, you need to tighten the screw on the top of the windlass, under the black cap.
 
quote:
Originally posted by HOGAN

Allen, you need to tighten the screw on the top of the windlass, under the black cap.

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I did, took a huge flat head and a wrench for better grip. Still was sliding. I will try again, if it still doesn't work i will open it to look at the inside.
And thank you.
 
Allen - If you have the same windlass I have, there is a plastic strip inside that wears out after a while. You will likely need a re-build kit for it. I have one for mine, even though it works, that I plan to put on when I do the anchor locker.

Billy - Yes, the interlock switch needs to be removed or replaced. Otherwise the door will never open.

As for the Wave. I will eventually get it installed. It is on my todo list. However, I get good reception from the marina wifi most of the time and when I don't I have 2gb of 3G data via my iphone. I could actually have unlimited if I jailbroke it. So I am in no real hurry. My new chartplotter has built in GPS ant. and if it works without issue I will like not install an external one. That is where I will install the rogue if I do. It is on the arch and I can tape the two cable ends together and just pull it straight through. I have a linksys router to connect it to.

Dave - That is exactly the dilemma I see with the cable to the tele. The bathroom deal is solid unit and there is no real access behind the closet. There is the shelf under the window in that stateroom that has a scewed down top that I could remove. I have also removed the part with the lights in it and can not see past that bathroom. I will be taking it all apart though this coming winter until I can feed lines through there. Think about making myself a conduit with two HDMI, one composite and one Cat5 cable.
 
I thought I could see from out side some broken plastic piece. Will take it apart during the week sometimes. Can't remember the brand for the windless.
 
John try using a snake for under the sink I think you will be able to go behind the closet and to the door under the bed, If not as I said pull the two draws and drill some big holes and you will be all set!
 
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