VHF antenna?

Audrey II

Active member
Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
RO Number
30499
Messages
6,405
A few years ago I several years ago I replaced my VHF antenna I don't remember what brand I bought but at the advice of Wireless One I bought what he said was the best at the time. A few years later I replaced my VHF radio with a Gramin 200 which integrates with all my electronics however my signal strength if fair at best. I have friends with inexpensive equipment that blows my setup away in regards to sending and receiving. My question is should a replace my antenna again and if so what it the best one to buy standard 8` whip. I'm tired of not being heard!
 
IMHO, you have only 2 choices for each. Icom or Standard Horizon for the radio. Shakespeare or Digital for antenna; using the top of the line in each.
 
I have a Shakespeare and it works well (don't remember the model). If you have a lot of obstructions, maybe you can just add an extension to raise your current antenna.
 
Having a viable VHF is a key component to safe boating! I assume your current antenna is on/near the top of your arch - if not, like Stephen recommends add an extension so the 'working part' is above the arch. Also, is it perpendicular to the ground? Some boaters lean their antenna's back, cuz it looks cool. However, for greatest range VHF antenna's need to be straight up; even a noticeable tilt would affect range.

Now assuming the above recommendations don't apply, then by all means replace the antenna.
 
I have an 8' digital mounted on the top of the arch nothing obstructing the antenna. It has never been great when I first installed it I needed a small cable extension which I assumed was an issue. Later I switch which side of the arch the antenna was mounted on and the eliminated the need for the extension but still didn't improve the signal. I replace the radio from an old Icom to a Garmin 200 unit which I really like but still not a great signal. I guess I should mentioned the first thing I replaced was the antenna because the old one was dry rotted and giving splinters if you touched it. I really don't know if the original antenna worked any better I hadn't realized or noticed an issue before I replaced the antenna.
 
Back to what boatbum said, Check your system with a VSWR bridge. It eliminates guessing. You could have 100 watts of power and most all of it be reflected back due to bad coax, connections or a bad antenna. You could garbage a brand new piece of coax by mishandling. A lot of bridges have power meters to verify the transmitter.

Ken
 
Have you checked all of the electrical connections to the VHF?
 
quote:

Originally posted by HOGAN

Have you checked all of the electrical connections to the VHF?





The culprit usually is the connector on the end of the coax. Soldering is the best, but difficult to do correctly, and the solderless connectors are terrible.
 
Power is clean the antenna came with a per terminated mini connector and a screw on adapter there was nothing to terminate this said even if there was given what I do for a living soldering would not be an issue!
 
I just ordered an swr meter it is the only thing that makes any sense as to testing. I should have it in time for next weekend to test things out. I would love to believe it is just a bad cable maybe I will get lucky!
 
Unfortunately it was delivered late yesterday after I had already left for the boat fpr the weekend.
I don't mind having handy useful tools!
 
quote:

Originally posted by sugilbert

quote:

Originally posted by HOGAN

Have you checked all of the electrical connections to the VHF?





The culprit usually is the connector on the end of the coax. Soldering is the best, but difficult to do correctly, and the solderless connectors are terrible.








I strongly disagree the solderless Centerpin PL259 connectors are terrible. If you are not used to frequently soldering tiny wire strands to thick solid metal as in the conventional connectors without melting the insulation or having excess solder block the connection, the solderless connectors are really easy to install with just a pair of pliers for a very reliable connection if done carefully .

No trimming back layers of sheathing and insulation at different lengths. Just cut the coax off square & install the few Centerpin pieces on the coax in order.

*For best protection, apply a little silicone dielectric grease on the cut end and jacket 1st where it will be under the connector.

* The most important simple trick is to use the pliers to gently squeeze down the "teeth"pairs just a very little at a time and move on to the next pair and so on until each pair has been lightly squeezed at least a couple times and the arm connected to each tooth is only laying tightly flat on the jacket, not pressed way in .That arm is designed to limit depth of the tooth penetration.

*NOTE: If you squeeze the 1st pair too hard right off they will crowd out the next pairs & the rest will never go down flat enough to allow the connector to screw together inside the barrel, plus that pair of teeth could go in beyond the braid shield/ground layer of wire and short to the center conductor, ...so don't do that. :D

The teeth should only go deep enough to sit in the braided shield layer

Just put it all together and if it is in an area exposed to spray , wrap the whole connector with self-amalgamating tape.

I've used them on several radios and have maintained an approx 1.2:1 to < 1.5:1 VSWR for about 8 yrs, and 2 of the connections are in an area of direct saltwater spray on my tower stand .

They are reliable and sooo much faster and easier to add to the coax than the solder type which for most non-professional electronics folks have a greater chance of failed installation.
Anyone can quickly install these connectors for reliable use the 1st time if they follow the simple tips above.
I was a disbeliever for a long time too refusing to try them, but got over the misinformation about these clever great gold-plated Centerpin connectors and would only use these now. Just don't put them on already-corroded cable as they can't fix that.
 
Update I received my new Swr meter and went to the boat to test the radio it appears the antenna is fine but the radio is only putting out 19 watts instead of 25 and at 1 watt it only puts out .5 watts.
I spoke with Garmin and they seem to think the there is something wrong with the radio. I'm not sure if it is truly the output or possibly the mic itself may be bad, either way I have an advanced replacement being shipped to me. Unfortunately it is not under warranty so I will have to pay an upgrade fee of a couple hundred. I have to resolve this issue it is a life safety issue!
 
So it looks like they gave you a credit towards the new one? Please update the forum community again when you test the new unit.
 
Yes I'm paying about half price.
Hopefully this will resolve the issue!
 
looks like the meter was money well spent! I may have to borrow it. . . !!
 
Update I received a replacement unit from Garmin I plugged it tested it with the meter and it puts out about 4.5 watts more. I haven't had a chance to really test it out but with one radio check I got a response from about 7 to 8 miles away and I was told I was LOUD AND CLEAR I was never told this before not even from boat right next to me!
 
Back
Top