Windlass died

R

Rowdyroady

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May 18, 2009
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31273
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I need windlass advice. My windlass finally died yesterday. I switched from a 14 pound Delta plow anchor to a 35 pounder on my 32 foot Chris Craft last Summer because I was tired of always having to be on alert about the anchor not holding. The 35 pounder definitely fixed that problem but I knew the windlass was probably not rated for it. The windlass is a Simpson-Lawrence 900 Series Horizon. This is discontinued, but doing a bit of research it seems like it was pretty beefy. 900 pounds of pull. What size do I need? 8 feet of chain.
 
Are you sure the breaker didn't trip? They are usually hidden and are a push button style depending on the age of the boat. Windlass wiring is one area where I have seen grossly undersized wiring as well. Putting a larger anchor might have pushed the limits of the wire sizing and tripped the breaker.
Bill
 
The breaker did trip, but the windlass was really struggling. Has been since I switched anchors. It is agonizingly slow pulling up the anchor. Yesterday was the first time it popped the breaker, so I figured it is time?
 
What is the distance round trip from the windlass to the battery powering it (both + & -)? What size wire (gauge) is run to the battery? It sounds to me like the wire is undersized and or you could have bad connections causing the breaker to trip it's showing up since you put the addtional load on the windlass with the new anchor. When you reset the breaker does the windlass still work? If so measure the DC voltage at the windlass when you have someone operate it. I'm going to guess and bet you have at least a 3 volt drop unless the windlass recieves the proper voltage it will operate like it is undersized.
Bill
 
As an example my boat's windlass was a factory option had a round trip distance to the old battery that started my port motor of almost 80 feet the factory installed #6 wire. It barely worked. Once I installed the new forward battery bank for the bow thruster the distance was about 12 feet round trip. I still got rid of the #6 and went with #1/0 I also upgraded to a larger windlass with 60 feet of 5/16th chain and a large anchor, I can actually drag the boat with the windlass now and not trip the new breaker. I was dropping almost 4 volts with the old cabling and battery location. The new wiring and battery bank I has less than .4ths of a volt drop at the windlass and it operates considerably faster.
Bill
 
It is rated 750W Input, 600W Output. Wires seem pretty beefy, too. They tie into a buss that has even beefier power and ground wires feeding it. Nothing else tied to it but the windlass. I hate to spend a thousand dollars on a new windlass, but if I do, want to make sure I do it right. Boat is ten years old. Can I just get this one rebuilt?

windlass2.jpg


windlass1.jpg
 
So the distance is 40 feet because in a boat you have to take the ground and hot wires for the total distance. What size wire is on the buss bars?
You probably can have that unit rebuilt assuming it has the proper torque/power needed for the anchor you are using.
I would start by looking on line for the installation manual for the unit see what it recommends for wiring size/distance.
Bill
 
I have had the SL 900FF for 8 years now. I'm using a 35 lb Delta & 20' of 5/16" chain. I've never had any problem hauling the anchor up. Actually I have to stop it before the anchor breaks the surface and then come up slowly. Otherwise it will flip the anchor 5' up in the air. Round trip fom battery to windlass was 70'. I used 1 gauge wire which was the recommended gauge on the SL chart.
Al
 
http://www.pyacht.com/SL-Horizon-600-900.pdf Here is the installation manual kind of hard to follow check around page 9 or 10 for the wire size needed. It explains how to determine the distance and size wire.
Bill
 
I don't know if your windlass is repairable or not, but I suspect what killed it was your (probably) small bow roller.
My Lewmar 1000 failed not long after I switched to a 35# Delta like yours, and the only reason I can see was that it had a really tough time hauling that 35# anchor over the roller. Windline makes a 5" diameter roller that makes it a lot easier, and they also make a "cantilever" anchor bracket with TWO rollers. Either one should help the anchor problem.

I have no doubt your windlass is repairable if the manufacturer is still in business. Contact them but DO NOT take it apart if it's still in warranty. Either way it can be repaired and there maybe be a repair shop near you, though what it'll cost I can't say.

Note: After I got mine reinstalled, I discovered that the CIRCUIT BREAKER had burned out and had to install a new one. You might want to check yours.
 
quote:
Originally posted by lobsta1

I have had the SL 900FF for 8 years now. I'm using a 35 lb Delta & 20' of 5/16" chain. I've never had any problem hauling the anchor up. Actually I have to stop it before the anchor breaks the surface and then come up slowly. Otherwise it will flip the anchor 5' up in the air. Round trip fom battery to windlass was 70'. I used 1 gauge wire which was the recommended gauge on the SL chart.
Al

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Same here (except it might be a 600FF or a 900FF - don't remember)

We use 30' chain

The only problem we have is occasionally the clutch takes numerous tries to engage when first pulling anchor.

8 years old also.

We keep a canvas cove rover the entire bow pulpit (task inset) when not in use.

RWS
 
You should call the manufacturer to see if it can be rebuilt.

Remember that the windlass should never be used to pull the boat up to the anchor. You should idle slowly towards the anchor as you reel in the rode. Once you get directly over the anchor (and the rode is perpendicular to the water) drive past the anchor to break it free from the bottom, and then continue retrieving it with the windlass.
 
Hogan is right about not pulling the boat however as an example mine will do it with the proper power and sized unit. I went up to the largest size chain "Good Wndlass" made. I upgraded from their smaller rope/rode only Windlass. Changing out the power wiring was a huge improvement.
Looking at the picture you have the unit out what happens when you give it power from a battery now? If it engages and starts pulling line I would look at the breaker and wire size. RWS also brought up a great point about the roller upgrade that as well if needed.
Bill
 
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