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Window sealant advice
- Thread starter jstokes
- Start date
I'd suggest a butyl tape. Several manufacturers like Tremco, Schnee-Morehead, etc. produce different widths and thicknesses. Do a google search for a distributor.
As far as your application is concerned, there are a few tips I might offer.
Before you remove your existing windows, trace around the perimeter, so that you know their exact position for re-install. You can apply the tape to either the fiberglass or aluminum frame. Make sure that your butt joint is located on the bottom of the window. Start the tape on the bottom center. This way, you'll be assured of a good perimeter seal. After you remove the release paper, coat the butyl with a soapy water solution, so that the window can be repositioned if necessary. The butyl will always remain tacky and stick to the frame as soon as it touches if you don't use the soapy water. After installation, the water will not adversely affect the seal.
As far as your application is concerned, there are a few tips I might offer.
Before you remove your existing windows, trace around the perimeter, so that you know their exact position for re-install. You can apply the tape to either the fiberglass or aluminum frame. Make sure that your butt joint is located on the bottom of the window. Start the tape on the bottom center. This way, you'll be assured of a good perimeter seal. After you remove the release paper, coat the butyl with a soapy water solution, so that the window can be repositioned if necessary. The butyl will always remain tacky and stick to the frame as soon as it touches if you don't use the soapy water. After installation, the water will not adversely affect the seal.
Yes, that tape is similar to what you need. However, you don't need the fabric scrim and CRL is only a wholesale house. They are more expensive than most distributors. The size 1/8" x 3/4" is probably a good overall size to use, unless your window flange is much wider. If that's the case, you'll need a wider tape.
If you have a thin bondline, the sikaflex 220FC would be the better choice. If you have somewhat of a gap between the frame and underlying fiberglass, the butyl tape would be a better choice.
The differences between the two products are as follows: the 220FC is going to completely cure to a flexible rubber, it's bond strength is much greater, being that it's a liquid it will squeeze out more than a tape during the initial install. The butyl tape is always going to remain tacky, it is more of a pure sealant versus an adhesive, the mechanical fasteners will provide the strength to hold the frame in place. The drawbacks of a butyl tape are that it will pick up dust and dirt if it's exposed and you might experience a little cold flow under pressure.
If you decide to go with the butyl tape, make sure that it (butyl) is listed somewhere in the product description. Don't purchase a product listed as merely a sealing or putty tape. They typically contain oils which will bleed out over time and cause black streaks. If you look at RV's, you'll see black streaks running from the windows down the side of the body. Butyls are compounded with rubber, resins, fillers and tackifying agents. They will not bleed.
If applied properly, both products will perform well, for years. I've seen butyl tapes that have been used on metal buildings, grain bins, automotive joints, RV windows, trailer seems, etc. after 20-25 years of service that looked as good as the day they were applied.
If you have a thin bondline, the sikaflex 220FC would be the better choice. If you have somewhat of a gap between the frame and underlying fiberglass, the butyl tape would be a better choice.
The differences between the two products are as follows: the 220FC is going to completely cure to a flexible rubber, it's bond strength is much greater, being that it's a liquid it will squeeze out more than a tape during the initial install. The butyl tape is always going to remain tacky, it is more of a pure sealant versus an adhesive, the mechanical fasteners will provide the strength to hold the frame in place. The drawbacks of a butyl tape are that it will pick up dust and dirt if it's exposed and you might experience a little cold flow under pressure.
If you decide to go with the butyl tape, make sure that it (butyl) is listed somewhere in the product description. Don't purchase a product listed as merely a sealing or putty tape. They typically contain oils which will bleed out over time and cause black streaks. If you look at RV's, you'll see black streaks running from the windows down the side of the body. Butyls are compounded with rubber, resins, fillers and tackifying agents. They will not bleed.
If applied properly, both products will perform well, for years. I've seen butyl tapes that have been used on metal buildings, grain bins, automotive joints, RV windows, trailer seems, etc. after 20-25 years of service that looked as good as the day they were applied.
UPDATE: The project is underway. I have ordered sealing material. Now cutting out rotted, delaminated paneling. So far, there appears to be no damage to underlying bulkhead materials. The carpet and a few spots in the subfloor are another story, however.
Advice received on this board has been invaluable and gave me the confidence to get started. Thanks again.
Advice received on this board has been invaluable and gave me the confidence to get started. Thanks again.
Another update: 5 windows into a 12 window job and I am starting to get the hang of it. I have found that re-tightening the screws around the sealing flanges after the window has set in place for a day or so (before re-installing trim)is a good idea. The butyl rubber material squeezes out around the flanges during this process. I think I will try and trim it off with a sharp utility knife to neaten up the work after the butyl cures more. Thanks again for all advice. J