What's the difference between the two? I did some scratch repairs on my hull and have some fine scratches left from the sandpaper (1500). There is a dullness where the area was sanded so I am wondering will the BM do the trick with PP or should I hit it with BM and then Finese it II. Are you guys/gals still sold on PP?
BM vs Finese it II
- Thread starter Newbie509
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Buff Magic is a compounding product, capable of removing oxidation, dirt etc. The abrasives break down from friction, so as it's used, it becomes more mild and able to produce a nice shine.
Finesse-It II starts out mild, so it's not designed to remove deep scratches, dirt or oxidation. When used properly, Finesse-It can take a Buff Magic shine "to the next level". It can also remove swirl marks and remove or reduce very fine scratches.
Finesse-It II starts out mild, so it's not designed to remove deep scratches, dirt or oxidation. When used properly, Finesse-It can take a Buff Magic shine "to the next level". It can also remove swirl marks and remove or reduce very fine scratches.
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Be careful with Finesse-It II, heats up very quickly, will burn your gelcote if you are not careful. BM is much more forgiving with the heat buildup.
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First off, I would find some 2000 or 2200 grit paper. THen I use Finesse-it from the gallon can. Looks sweet!!!
I have always had good results with it. It can dry out on the hull and you can burn thru gelcoat if you get too heavy handed on edges.
I have never used BM. Might need to give it a try.
I have always had good results with it. It can dry out on the hull and you can burn thru gelcoat if you get too heavy handed on edges.
I have never used BM. Might need to give it a try.
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My opinion is that if you are not experienced with buffing, do not try Finesse It. It does work well, but you can screw the pooch real quick with it......YMMV.
Capt. Bill1
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You guys are burning through with Finesse-It polish!? You are talking about the white "glaze" version right?
Because that is what would be similar to Buff Magic.
The "glase" version of Finesse-It II is a very fine polish. And not likely to burn through unless your gelcoat is very thin to start with. Now there is a Finesse-It compound. Which could burn through rather easily if not used with caution.
Because that is what would be similar to Buff Magic.
The "glase" version of Finesse-It II is a very fine polish. And not likely to burn through unless your gelcoat is very thin to start with. Now there is a Finesse-It compound. Which could burn through rather easily if not used with caution.
He meant "burn" more than "burn through". Finesse-It II, no matter which sub-label the bottle carries, can heat up and burn gelcoat when used improperly. (hovering over one spot, or too many RPM's etc)
Giving credit where it's due, George aka "Manmade" gave a great tip a few years ago:
When using Finesse-It, keep a spray bottle of water nearby. Mist the surface as you go. The water allows you to use much less product, and lessens (but not eliminates) the chance of burning.
Giving credit where it's due, George aka "Manmade" gave a great tip a few years ago:
When using Finesse-It, keep a spray bottle of water nearby. Mist the surface as you go. The water allows you to use much less product, and lessens (but not eliminates) the chance of burning.
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Yes, burm, like turn it brown, not burn thru.
Capt. Bill1
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OK, OK, now I get it.
Never really had a problem burning Finesse-It. But I guess that's because we always use foam pads with HD orbitals in most cases.
Never really had a problem burning Finesse-It. But I guess that's because we always use foam pads with HD orbitals in most cases.
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I used Finesse-It 2 and waxed with Meguires Flagship, and my 22 year old boat shines like it's on the showroom floor again...VERY HAPPY with this procedure! Happier than with BM and Pro Polish
My old Imron painted boat loves Finesse-It II and Rejex; but I pay experienced people to run that buffer. "A man's got to know his limitations".
This pic is after living on a mooring in salt water for a few months with no real washing (over the rail water wash down only), after transiting from Baltimore up the Hudson and then down and around to Massachusetts. If you got up close enough, you could shave in the reflection from the hull.
Looked pretty much the same 5 months later in Key West...
George
Hatteras 56MY
Boston Whaler 130 Sport
This pic is after living on a mooring in salt water for a few months with no real washing (over the rail water wash down only), after transiting from Baltimore up the Hudson and then down and around to Massachusetts. If you got up close enough, you could shave in the reflection from the hull.
Looked pretty much the same 5 months later in Key West...
George
Hatteras 56MY
Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Capt. Bill1
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Nice picture George. Best to both.
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If you are asking this you shouldn't try to use it IMHO.
It really is for experienced users.
Do the Buff Magic after you wet sand with 2000 paper, you will not be disappointed the stuff works well.
It really is for experienced users.
Do the Buff Magic after you wet sand with 2000 paper, you will not be disappointed the stuff works well.
Boy, I dunno. I just got done with 48 feet of boat, hull and topsides. Supercut and finesse. I would worry MUCH more about the supercut. The finesse was, at least to me, a very easy product to use. Not only that, but it works best at high rpm. That's when it really pops. If you feel the pad start to bog down, its time to score the pad (or if you are already scoring frequently, then time to get a new pad). I rotate through 4 yellow wool pads for the finesse. I never came close to burning with that product.
The best thing I did is to invest in a series of pads. I'm up to 6 white (about to retire 2) and 4 yellow, all wool. Try to not over use the product, score the pad when it loads up and don't try to over use a pad. When you are scoring frequently, its time to move to a new one. Heavy oxidation areas you might not go more than 3 sections before being ready to change pads. Take them home at the end of the day and run them through the washing machine. With any product, cutting or polishing, you need to apply it to the surface and work it methodically horizontal, then vertical. Check to make sure the pad is not loading, score if it is, then increase speed and continue buffing until the product essentially dissappears. If you are generating heat, your pad is generally loaded. Score again to get it fluffy and if the scoring is not working, the pads almost guaranteed to be loaded and look like its got dreadlocks. It does no good to buff with a loaded pad. Biggest newbie mistake is using too much product, or trying to do to large of an area. It serves not good to do either and you won't go any faster doing so. Put the product into ketchup bottles. It's a good way to work cleaner and helps to not apply product too generously. Better to cut the same area twice with less product than to try to do it once with a lot of product.
I've cut my prior boats a few times, but none of them had the square footage of the 48 I have now. I guess even though I am not new to buffing that after what has been easily 50 hours on the 48 that my skills have increased significantly. Previously I would only buff with one pad, two at most. I would never do so now. Once you have aquired the pads, they last awhile and you do much better work when you can change out when the pad is loaded. Oxidized boats will need many. Shiny boats won't need so many.
But really, if you follow even a half decent technique the finesse is really not a tough product to use. It needs the high speed and won't produce the same outcome at low speeds. Just use a fresh pad, don't let it load up and get dreadlocks and it will be fine.
The best thing I did is to invest in a series of pads. I'm up to 6 white (about to retire 2) and 4 yellow, all wool. Try to not over use the product, score the pad when it loads up and don't try to over use a pad. When you are scoring frequently, its time to move to a new one. Heavy oxidation areas you might not go more than 3 sections before being ready to change pads. Take them home at the end of the day and run them through the washing machine. With any product, cutting or polishing, you need to apply it to the surface and work it methodically horizontal, then vertical. Check to make sure the pad is not loading, score if it is, then increase speed and continue buffing until the product essentially dissappears. If you are generating heat, your pad is generally loaded. Score again to get it fluffy and if the scoring is not working, the pads almost guaranteed to be loaded and look like its got dreadlocks. It does no good to buff with a loaded pad. Biggest newbie mistake is using too much product, or trying to do to large of an area. It serves not good to do either and you won't go any faster doing so. Put the product into ketchup bottles. It's a good way to work cleaner and helps to not apply product too generously. Better to cut the same area twice with less product than to try to do it once with a lot of product.
I've cut my prior boats a few times, but none of them had the square footage of the 48 I have now. I guess even though I am not new to buffing that after what has been easily 50 hours on the 48 that my skills have increased significantly. Previously I would only buff with one pad, two at most. I would never do so now. Once you have aquired the pads, they last awhile and you do much better work when you can change out when the pad is loaded. Oxidized boats will need many. Shiny boats won't need so many.
But really, if you follow even a half decent technique the finesse is really not a tough product to use. It needs the high speed and won't produce the same outcome at low speeds. Just use a fresh pad, don't let it load up and get dreadlocks and it will be fine.
Thanks Ghost, that is good advice and I will get more pads. I have Buff Magic pads which are a wool and synthetic blend and I have polishing pads. Sounds like the wool pads are the way to go with the finesse it and the polishing pads are for the Pro Polish. I used Buff magic last year and it was OK but I'm looking for that deep lasting shine and I hope I can get it with the finesse it and then Pro Polish.
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How does one get experience if not by doing it?
Newbie: Get a good high speed buffer. I vary my Makita between 1900 and 2300 RPM. Let the results tell you how much pressure to apply. Let the weight of the machine do the work and keep it moving. You'll be fine.
Newbie: Get a good high speed buffer. I vary my Makita between 1900 and 2300 RPM. Let the results tell you how much pressure to apply. Let the weight of the machine do the work and keep it moving. You'll be fine.