Buff Magic and Pro Polish

L

LakeTravis

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2004
RO Number
12685
Messages
19
Okay, so I just spent 10 hours going over a 24' cruiser with this stuff.

Buff Magic: Applied with a wax applicator (round pad) and buffed with a white wool pad.

Pro Polish: Applied with a wax applicator (round pad) and buffed with a black foam pad.

Buffer - Harbor Freight 7" set at 4.

I'm seeing areas that are still dull but not chalky, and some areas with swirl marks that may just be polish residue.

I'm thinking about going over some of the areas again with the polish and then waxing the whole thing by hand (was applicator, large microfiber towel to buff out).

It's actually looking prety good - an 11 year old cruiser that's been sitting on a trailer with a sunbrella cover for over 18 months - the sides below the rubrail were getting pretty chalky but now are as reflective as a white mirror.

Is this comparable to what others do and/or experience?
 
Buff magic is the equivalent of jeweler's rouge-it will take an OK finish and make it shine like new. If you have heavy oxidation, you should probably use a heavy duty rubbing compound like turbo cut first. I used Finesse It II on my duller areas before using buff magic but I had used a 3M rubbing compound the year before to get the fiberglass back into workable condition before using the "hot product" of that year. Buff magic and Pro polish are great products but are not miracle workers. You have to have a decent base to work from.
 
My boat sat for a couple of years and the gelcoat above rubrail was chalky. The first year back I did a quick compound on it just to make it presentable. I have used a fine compound several more times over the past 2 years. Each time the shine improves more than before. Although it looks real good it does not have the glossy look of a new boat when looking at the gelcoat from an angle. I just got Buff Magic and Pro Polish yesterday. I applied some Buff Magic to one small area to get an idea of what it will do. In my opinion it seems to do as good as the other fine compounds I used previously. I am optimistic that it will do better with a buffer. Bottom line is that it may take more than once to get a lasting shine.
 
In my opinion if you are not using a buffer you are wasting your time. I did my boat with Buff magic and pro polish last year It look great but after a few washes the polish seemed to wash away and I had to reapply several times during the season this year I will try something different.
 
2 years ago, I did the Buff Majic/pro polish process and like Dave said...it looked great for about a month, then I had to rewax. Unfortunately, my Pro Polish had gone bad so I used Mequiars Flagship wax/polish. To my surprise and delight, it shined better than the Pro Polish and laster the rest of the season. I will be using it this year again.
 
Ive heard mixed things about buff magic and pro polish..

Ive used the 3m stuff, colonite, buff magic pro polish, etc...

By far the buff magic beats the other stuff out there..The truck is to spin the wheel on a higher speed. Do not put pressure on the wheel. It may not be great item to use on heavily oxidized boats but its a good product.

Garys is also a great product, hard to work with sometimes, but for a quick solid cleaning wax, id go with garys
 
Buff Magic is made to be used between 1400 and 1800 RPM on a rotary buffer only. Anything more or less and anything besides a rotary buffer you are wasting your time. I share an office with one of the old owners of Yacht Brite, so this is first hand info.

The trick is to make sure you work the Buff Magic in all the way until there is NO product left on the surface, wiping a haze off with a towel will dull the shine. Working the product very slow and until you do not see anything on the surface is the only way to make it work correctly.

I use Buff Magic every season at the beginning of the year and use Leverage Polish to protect my shine (and improve it), touch ups are quick and easy througout the year. Meg. Flagship is my second favorite however it does dinge and dull over time.

Pro Polish on the other hand I don't have very many nice things to say about, and I try and try to like it. I tried it on my boat and it made it look splotchy and only lasted about a week from what I could tell. Supposedly when Shurhold took over the Yacht Brite brand they changed the formulas of Serious Shine and Pro Polish.

If you can find it, buy Opti Gloss products. Opti gloss is all the original formulas that Yacht Brite WAS and usually cheaper. Opti Gloss was around before yacht brite. To my knowledge there are 4 or 5 different brands that use the same formulas.

Not many people know there is actually a more aggressive version of Buff Magic available too called Super Cut by Opti Gloss, I use this stuff on some stubborn boats and its basically your last line of defense before wet sanding.

FYI, I have no vested interest in any of these products. I have to buy them just like everybody else but I do own a local boat detailing company and these are the products I use to get the best results.
 
I've had great results with Buff Magic and Pro Polish. Agree with the above posts, have to work the Buff Magic until it's gone. The trick for me with Pro Polish is to let it dry completely. It wipes off easily and then I apply a second coat. I quit using wax as It attracts dirt when it gets hot and yellows the gel coat over time.
 
I spent a couple of hours (okay, 4) today going back over it all, wiped it down and then used some Turtle Wax that I had. Put it on by hand, buffed it off by hand, then went over the entire cruiser with the buffer, black foam, 1500 rpm.

It's pretty darn shiny. I'm still not getting that head-on mirror finish, but from an angle it's definitely mirror like and I can see the reflections of everything around it.

I've still got about half the Buff Magic and half the Pro Polish left. I think the trick is that it's too easy to use too much.

From here it's going back into the covered dock next weekend. We'll see how long it lasts.
 
I used Buff Magic for the the previous season with excellent results, tried Aurora Boat Scrub and Boat Shine this year, both the admiral and I still like Buff Magic for its cleaning abilities, the polishes were a tie.
 
quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht

Buff Magic is made to be used between 1400 and 1800 RPM on a rotary buffer only.

Click to expand...


Sounds like you have some insider info about the product...or at least some pretty good practical experience. I assume this is with an 7 1/2 inch buff pad (anything larger or smaller would have a different velocity)?

quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht

The trick is to make sure you work the Buff Magic in all the way until there is NO product left on the surface, wiping a haze off with a towel will dull the shine. Working the product very slow and until you do not see anything on the surface is the only way to make it work correctly.

Click to expand...


I have troubles understanding this. If you wipe something with a dirty rag (or dirty buff pad in this case), how would you ever get something clean?
 
quote:


If you wipe something with a dirty rag (or dirty buff pad in this case), how would you ever get something clean?

Click to expand...


You wouldn't, but this isn't really a cleaning process. It's more akin to sanding.

The abrasive material in Buff Magic breaks down during the process, so by the time it's absorbed in the pads and has been subjected to a lot of friction, it's very fine.

370 is saying that if you stop too soon, you not only don't get the full benefit of the product, but you can actually dull the surface by wiping still highly-abrasive product across the gelcoat.

I've experienced this when I do touch-ups by hand, in areas like under cleats etc. It works ok by hand, but nothing like a wheel, so if I overlap into areas already perfected with the wheel, it gets duller.

(I've also gone backwards by using an oribital for touch-ups. Live and learn)
 
The buffer setting is meant to be at 1400-1800, on my dewalt I put the speed right smack dab in the middle and go to town. If you are having problems with swirls, slow the buffer down and work the product in slower for better results.

SLW is right on the money.
 
I use my buffer on a much higher speed with NO swirl marks and fantastic results.
 
I dont understand how buffing at a lower speed is going to get a better shine

Ive read forums and watched videos about buff magic, and they all state that the faster you spin it without pressure the deeper the shine and the more the product breaks down. There is NO way this product can break down at a slower speed. Heat caused by friction is what causes this product to keep breaking down..Never will happen with a slow speed buff
 
You seem to be missing something though. I HAVE USED THIS PRODUCT ALSO. Is it possible to get the same results using a product both ways? Sure, however there is NO logic to getting a deeper shine with a slower speed buff. Ive seen a video with the owner of Yacht Brite, and he states the faster you buff with light pressure, the better the results.

If you are buffing at a SLOW speed, there is NO WAY the product can keep breaking down.

Im not saying anyone is out of their mind, but it JUST DOESNT MAKE SENSE.

I could see using 3M super duty compound on a low speed, as that stuff is very gritty and will cut the oxidation. Buff Magic ISNT gritty at all, therefore you would HAVE to spin it faster to get everything to break down..
 
quote:
Originally posted by 370 Motoryacht

Buff Magic is made to be used between 1400 and 1800 RPM on a rotary buffer only. Anything more or less and anything besides a rotary buffer you are wasting your time. I share an office with one of the old owners of Yacht Brite, so this is first hand info.

The trick is to make sure you work the Buff Magic in all the way until there is NO product left on the surface, wiping a haze off with a towel will dull the shine. Working the product very slow and until you do not see anything on the surface is the only way to make it work correctly.

I use Buff Magic every season at the beginning of the year and use Leverage Polish to protect my shine (and improve it), touch ups are quick and easy througout the year. Meg. Flagship is my second favorite however it does dinge and dull over time.

Pro Polish on the other hand I don't have very many nice things to say about, and I try and try to like it. I tried it on my boat and it made it look splotchy and only lasted about a week from what I could tell. Supposedly when Shurhold took over the Yacht Brite brand they changed the formulas of Serious Shine and Pro Polish.

If you can find it, buy Opti Gloss products. Opti gloss is all the original formulas that Yacht Brite WAS and usually cheaper. Opti Gloss was around before yacht brite. To my knowledge there are 4 or 5 different brands that use the same formulas.

Not many people know there is actually a more aggressive version of Buff Magic available too called Super Cut by Opti Gloss, I use this stuff on some stubborn boats and its basically your last line of defense before wet sanding.

FYI, I have no vested interest in any of these products. I have to buy them just like everybody else but I do own a local boat detailing company and these are the products I use to get the best results.

Click to expand...


Since you are in the business what would you recommend for a DIYer for a power tool and wax/polish. I am not looking for the best possible shine, just want something easy to do (I'm old and lazy!) that lasts long here in Florida sun and looks OK. Also want to keep the cost reasonable.

Thanks,
 
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